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Old 12-03-2010, 08:17 PM   #11
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Yes, plenty of current and I use a turkey baster to blow detritus off the rocks during PWCs. A lot of the seems to settle back on the rock (the really light stuff).

Yesterday I noticed my nitrates we up to 2.5. I found the pump to my bio-pellets was disconnected, so I re-connected that. It was probably like that for no longer than a day.

GAC has been removed and GFO was changed. No Friday night feeding other than nori tonight.

I'll check params tomorrow before doing a pwc.
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:03 PM   #12
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I have heard some horror stories of tanks using bio-pellets.
My question is, what did you use to measure PO4? If it was a regular liquid test kit and you are getting .03 that may be your problem. Typically for me with the Salifert or Elos PO4 test kits I get a reading of 0, even though my PO4 is somewhere around .03 with a Hanna meter, which I feel is much more accurate. The liquid kits are not very accurate in my experience, they always read much lower.
I'd get some high quality GFO running, like this Bulk High Capacity GFO (Phosphate Remover) - English
and check into some of the issues others have been having with bio-pellets.
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:46 PM   #13
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Doug, that may be the cause. The lighting was changed 7 months ago, not really new at this point. The only thing that changed recently was the auto dosers for Alk and Ca and the flow.
I was manually dosing the same amounts of Alk and Ca every day, so the flow is really the only change.

Lights will be on in 15 minutes and I get to do some more cleaning and investigating.

My macro disappeared after adding the GFO/GAC along with the bio-pellets. I assumed that was from ultra low nutrients. Obviously there's enough to support HA in the tank, so I may try adding some macro to the sump/fuge again.

It's also time for a GFO change, and I will just remove the GAC for the next two weeks instead of replacing it.

Little tweaks till the battle is won.

I've been thinking about cooking my LR too as it's been in the tank for 6+ years. But that is a lot of work even if I only do small portions at a time.

Questions. 1. What do you mean when you say "Cooking your LR"???
2. What is GFO and GAC?
3. What is HA?

Thanks-Brett
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:06 PM   #14
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Questions. 1. What do you mean when you say "Cooking your LR"???
2. What is GFO and GAC?
3. What is HA?

Thanks-Brett
1. He explained it in post #9
2. GFO is Granular Ferric Oxide which removes Phosphate PO4, GAC is Activated Carbon which removes chemicals, discoloration etc
3. HA is Hair Algae
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:44 PM   #15
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1. He explained it in post #9
2. GFO is Granular Ferric Oxide which removes Phosphate PO4, GAC is Activated Carbon which removes chemicals, discoloration etc
3. HA is Hair Algae
Yeah I got that after I posted and then went back to keep reading lol And thanks for 2 and 3

-Brett
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:38 PM   #16
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I use the Hanna Phosphate meter for measurement. Yea, the liquid kits always test as 0. Now I can tell when the PO4 moves above .01 and change the GFO out at any reading over .04.
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:24 AM   #17
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Cooking your LR takes a lot of time but it's well worth it although I don't believe it is necessary but if u do it you'll be happy you did later on
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:43 AM   #18
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Time, and space are my only problems with doing that.
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:45 PM   #19
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Cooking your LR takes a lot of time but it's well worth it although I don't believe it is necessary but if u do it you'll be happy you did later on
How old of a tank do you usually want before you cook LR? Like, how would one know when to do this...
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:04 PM   #20
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My tank will be 7 years in February and I cycled with uncured LR.
Cooking your rock is more of a last ditch effort to get rid of excess nutrients in the tank. I really don't have that problem, but I may just swish some rocks in a bucket of pwc water removed from the tank to get rid of some of the fine particles that settle.
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