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Old 08-04-2005, 12:09 PM   #1
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Hair Algae continued....So I don't overtake a posting

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I just want to add, I don't normally advocate adding fish or inverts to solve an algae problem. It's always best to try to find the source of the problem and fixing it. The mollies like every other quick fix remedy is just that, a quick fix. It's not really addressing the issue but controlling it. They will eat the algae but once it's gone, I would suggest that you supplement their diet with another type of algae. They don't really care for sw flakes but will eat cyclops, mysid, brine and algae wafers. I intend to try them on nori, just haven't gotten any yet.
The above is from Fluff and from another Post: "Who Likes Green Hair Algae?"

I believe that the temperature of my tank is what is causing this problem.
It is consistently between 80 and 82-83 degrees.

I have tried to keep a fan on the tank, and have the hood open but I don't want anyone jumping for it.
Besides adding a chiller, is there anything else that I can do?
I do have my heater unplugged, while an obvious solution I did want to make it known that I had thought of that.

Is there anything else I can do?
TIA
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:47 PM   #2
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It is not the temperature of the tank causing hair algae. Algae needs light and a food source. Are you feeding too much, or too often? Do you use ro/di water for water changes? What are the phosphate and nitrate readings on your water?
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:49 PM   #3
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I agree with Hara. My reef tank stays between 80-84 during the summer and I don't have a hair algae problem in that tank. I did however had the problem in my 10g that used to house seahorses and I chalked it up to all the phosphates added to the water in their frozen food. I don't know what your readings are but I would try doing more water changes with RO/DI water and see if that helps.
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:35 PM   #4
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one thing i found that helped but may be time consumping is this...go to he store and by a flat of those cheap cheap cheap water bottles and freeze them solid...then you can either float them in the tank or the sump like me....just replace as they thaw and put a new one in and the old back in the freeze....cheap chiller for me....however that isnt the prob as everyone said...i would check phosphates first nitrates second....then maybe lighting and flow...
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:47 PM   #5
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I feed every other day. Mainly flakes but sometimes Mysis shrimp

Lighting is on from 12:30 PM until 11:00 PM (so only 10.5 hours)
Should I reduce the time that the lights are on?


I do a water change about once every other week, unless needed and I do use RO/DI water for the changes. I also top off with RO/DI.
Should I be doing water changes on a weekly basis for the time being?

TIA again.
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:48 PM   #6
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Mbeef61,

Thanks for that great idea. I never thought of that.
I will try to use that to reduce the temp, and I will try your other suggestions as well.
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:49 PM   #7
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Sorry, one more thing.

I just purchased a new pump.
I increased the gph flow from the original pump that came with the Nano

Lighting is what was with the Nano DX
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:47 PM   #8
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I would not try the icing unless you can be VERY consistant with it. It is better to maintain a stable temperature a little on the warm side that having big temperature fluctuations.
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:14 AM   #9
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i assure you its ok....you would have to do it on a large scale to change multiple degrees or have a sudden drop of temp...be smart about it...i wouldnt recommend a solid frozen 20 bottle for a 20 gallon....but i have used 5 frozen solid ones on my 80 and they barely last 20 to 25 min and they are completely melted in 82 or 83 and it drops maybe a degree in that time
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Old 08-05-2005, 08:18 PM   #10
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Have you tested your water yet for nitrate and phosphates..
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