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Old 11-29-2013, 11:02 PM   #51
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Just follow mr-xs advice and all will be well trust me. He is correct about the algae being bryopsis which is one of the toughest algaes to get rid of. The reason being is it can survive in low to no nutrient environments and spreads anytime a piece breaks off so trying to battle it with low nutrient levels will be a constant losing battle. If you are starting over with this tank then I would ramp up the mag with Kent-m to around the 1800-1900 range and let it remain there for 4-6 weeks to guarantee all spores and roots are dead. This is the only cure to this algae which I have done this exact thing to rid my tank of it. If you have livestock in the tank then don't exceed a 100ppm daily increase. You will begin to see the bryopsis "melt" at the 1500-1800ppm range depending on your current mag levels.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:05 PM   #52
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I did a ill more than that.. I pulled out all the rock scrubbed it and blacked it out in a tote. Basically turned over the top 3" of the dsb. Scrubbed the tank clean and blacked out the tank . Going in week 3 of blackout. I left one rock in the tank with a ill hair algae on it.. It's still there. But my coralline is dying..
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:12 PM   #53
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Kent-m contains a mineral of some kind which Kent will not release what it is that is what kills the algae. One of the guys that worked at Kent however did leave the company and made another mag supplement that'll do the same thing. You'll have to google it but I believe it was either seachems or brightwells that is the Kent-m alternative. That being said, until you dose your tank with one of the 2 products then you will always have byropsis.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:18 PM   #54
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I'm in the process of raising mag with kent . I've got my rock tub up to 1550. And my tank is at 1350.. Tank would have been over 1500 if I didn't dose kalk..
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:24 PM   #55
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Yeah, kalk should only be used after all levels have been brought to the levels you want to keep. It's made to sustain a constant level not increase levels like a 2 or 3 part. The ph swings would be to drastic for it to be used that way so once you are back to dealing with corals use a 2-3 part dosing kit to get your levels where you want them and then use Kalk to hold those levels.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:27 PM   #56
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Kalk don't hold mag tho. It depletes it.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:36 PM   #57
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Kalk itself does not deplete your magnesium levels, the calcification process is what depletes your magnesium which high Alk and calcium from the kalk means faster calcification. It's all a balancing act and once one thing gets out of wack everything falls apart. Just pick up a 2 part of Alk and calcium (since you already have the 3rd part with tech-m) and correct your levels before using kalk again.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:50 PM   #58
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I'm scientifically ... Dumb.... Haha. I have a hard time understanding all of this.. I've been dosing alk and calc keeping levels in the normal range. But with the tank being empty. There's nothing using calc except snails. It shouldn't be doing anything should it? I've been dosing a little of the 2 part once a week . I think I'm a good candidate for a electronic device to tell me what my params are at....
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:53 PM   #59
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Dosing should only be needed if A.) You have a lot of hard corals (lps and sps) or B.) You go very long periods between water changes. Hannah checkers may be a good option for you then since they give you a straight forward digital read out on the levels. They are $50 per test which is a little expensive but when considering the price of others and ease of use they are worth it.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:55 PM   #60
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And I read non stop every day on the Internet.. Bit have a hard time understanding
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