High calcium

[steve-s]

There is only one fish store in my town that has salt water, but there is one that is an hour away that i could check. So your saying that some salt can be altered to balance the chemistry? How could that be done?

Easy, as long as both are close to NSW chemistry, one side of the balance can be augmented with either a buffer or CaCl additive. Going beyond NSW with your saltmix is not usually an issue (within reason) because you are only doing PWC's so the net change is usually minimal depending on the actual levels of each from the start. With one as poorly balanced as Oceanic, your results will vary quite wildly from tank to tank.

Just tested the calcium in my tank again, its been about a week, and now its 560 8O I guess the water change yesterday to get rid of the rest of the cyano did it, guess that was a mistake.

Rising Ca without additives being used would indicate a Mg deficiency as well. Your Ca should not go beyond the tested level of the saltmix if just doing a water changes. FWIW, Oceanic has been the cause of many cyano blooms. If you have a PO4 kit, test your newly mixed SW for that as well.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

Mg problem too? how can that be fixed? Would Instant Ocean be a good salt? at the pet store that i didnt think would have salt mixes, they had a five gallon box of IO and i decided to get it just to try it, but i wanted to make sure it wasnt too unbalanced or anything. I have been doing about a 20% water change each week, about 8 gallons, so when i chagne salts, should i do 3 or four gallons for about a month and then start gradually increasing? I read what you said about changing salts i just want to make sure i have it right. Thanks again for the help.

 

[tbrock]

Ok before i confirm that the salt is also causing the cyano, I have to ask, could old dirty filter sponges in my fluval 304 possibly be causing it? I rinse them out at least every other week, sometimes more often, but they have gon from whity to brown in the eight montsh i have had them. I know i should replace them, but i dotn knwo if it has anything to do with the algae.

 

[steve-s]

Mg problem too? how can that be fixed?

Magnesium Chloride. Epsom salts can be used for small corrections but if the levels have risen that quickly, it will be of little use. I wouldn't bother in any case, you'd need to buy a test kit as well. The salt switch will take care of both issues over time. You may eventually wish to invest in a Mg test kit but I would wait until you get a few more scleractinians. More often than not, Mg is rarely needed.

Would Instant Ocean be a good salt? at the pet store that i didnt think would have salt mixes, they had a five gallon box of IO and i decided to get it just to try it, but i wanted to make sure it wasnt too unbalanced or anything.

It is unbalanced but fortunately easily fixed & should work fine. The alk is about the same as the Oceanic but the Ca is commonly 360ish ppm depending on the salinity. You would just need to add some CaCl (I perfer Kent Turbo Ca), until the Ca gets upwards of 420ish ppm. The amount needed will depend on the volume of your mixing vessel and tested chemistry beforehand.

I have been doing about a 20% water change each week, about 8 gallons, so when i chagne salts, should i do 3 or four gallons for about a month and then start gradually increasing? I read what you said about changing salts i just want to make sure i have it right. Thanks again for the help.

Drop the amount down to 5% and do a change every five days or so. After about a month, increase it a few points until you eventually get back to the 20% range. It will most likely take about 8-10 weeks. You should also see a decent normalization in the chem after the first month. Don't expect too much too soon though.

Cheers
Steve

 

[steve-s]

Ok before i confirm that the salt is also causing the cyano, I have to ask, could old dirty filter sponges in my fluval 304 possibly be causing it? I rinse them out at least every other week, sometimes more often, but they have gon from whity to brown in the eight montsh i have had them. I know i should replace them, but i dotn knwo if it has anything to do with the algae.

Nutrient is defiantely a contributor to cyano along with other factors but the main issue will always be PO4. Wether that be organic or not, it is the key to it's successful continuation. If you are mindful of your feedings and types of foods used and keeping the filters clean like you say above, the nutrient is not the main contributor in any real sense.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

So do you think the filter pads need replacing if they turn to a brown color, or will rinsing them out keep them clean? As far as phosphates causing the algae, they are at zero also....

 

[steve-s]

So do you think the filter pads need replacing if they turn to a brown color, or will rinsing them out keep them clean?

Depends on the materials the pads are made from but in general they should be replaced every few months. Smell is a good indication as is how well the flow from the unit is functioning.

As far as phosphates causing the algae, they are at zero also....

In the tank or did you also test the fresh saltmix? A zero reading from the tank doesn't mean much but any reading from the salt would be significant.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

the salt water not in the tank also had zero phophates. Is there anything else that could possibly causing the alge? should i test the salt mix for nitrates also? Will coraline alge lower calcium, i've noticed taht the back of my tank is getting more of it every day, im looking for an excuse not to switch slats, but i know i'll probably have too.

 

[seaham358]

IMO coraline algae will lower it over time as it grows. Is there any issues with your corals or fish because of the salt? If not then why switch.. I know your running high but give it time to work out.
Cyno syphon it out, pick up the water flow in the tank and if you have old bulbs change them out.
phosban is a good product, i run it in a phosban reactor and it has worked out well for me. It has cut my glass cleaning down to once a week now and the cyno is gone after months.

 

[tbrock]

I think i will wait a while to switch. It has no effect on my fish and i have no corals. Could high calcium have negative effects on corals, or even fish? I dont plan on getting any corals for a long time, just wondering what it would do.

 

[steve-s]

Could high calcium have negative effects on corals, or even fish? I dont plan on getting any corals for a long time, just wondering what it would do.

High Ca will definately have a negative impact on corals and mobile inverts, fish not really. It will also impact the alk to a certain degree unless maintained chemically. As far as coralline affecting the Ca levels, you would need some serious growth to pull down from 540 ppm to a more NSW level. You really have nothing in the tank that's going to change the Ca much if at all. Given your tank chemistry tests pretty much match the salt specs to a "T", there is IMO, nothing using it.

Personally I don't think using this salt in the long run is beneficial at all. You can choose to use up what you have until it's gone but since you have purchased the new brand, I would do the swap as discussed and stick with it after that. The Oceanic is I believe, the root of your problems. You will only know for sure one way or the other once you disciontinue it's use.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

I am going to a bigger city next week and plan on getting some more live rock and a bigger bucket of instant ocean, all my lfs has is 5 gal boxes, and would like to get a cleaner shrimp. You said that high calcium could effect mobile inverts, so should i wait on the shrimp? And if i am going to be switching salts, will that be to stressful on it?

 

[steve-s]

You said that high calcium could effect mobile inverts, so should i wait on the shrimp? And if i am going to be switching salts, will that be to stressful on it?

Other than the LR, I would hold off on any new additions until you've fixed the problem.

Cheers
Steve