How do i know my bed resin filter is bad

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squidward

Aquarium Advice Freak
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I Have a Kent marine 4 stage ro filter I just changed all filter but the membrane one I'd say like a month ago . I noticed that the bed resin filter changed from black to a copper brownish color towards the bottom. How do I know when it's bad ?
 
Just test the TDS - if its more than zero, its time to replace. The hand held meters are fairly inexpensive, so I've been told.
 
I got the pen. It has two posts on the end. YOu just dip it in the water and it gives you a reading. Mine is like a bluish-green color. Very easy to use. Think it was about $12 or something like that.
 
spoonman said:
I got the pen. It has two posts on the end. YOu just dip it in the water and it gives you a reading. Mine is like a bluish-green color. Very easy to use. Think it was about $12 or something like that.

Sounds good , thank you for the help I will be ordering it today .
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Russ
 
Check out the last page in my reef build (in signature). I changed my resin a few months ago and took pictures.
 
Check out the last page in my reef build (in signature). I changed my resin a few months ago and took pictures.

img_1914945_0_f34e4fed8ff31345e03d9f2439db0364.jpg


You'd get better performance from your DI stages if you:
1. Packed each as tightly as possible - avoid any air gaps/voids. If the resin bed fluidizes you didn't pack it tightly enough

2. Remove those DI stages from their clips and orient them vertically with bottom-up flow through each. You may need some clips and extra tubing to make this happen. The clips are made for either 2.0" or 2.5" diameter containers.

img_1914945_1_75ef06712f75001969dc91cff61fbfc8.jpg


Horizontal DI stages are a fundamental design/configuration goof - often an indicator of drinking water RO systems assembled overseas with DI's scabbed on in the U.S. You're unlikely to find a top tier vendor with a configuration that includes horizontal DI stages.
 
Buckeye said:
You'd get better performance from your DI stages if you:
1. Packed each as tightly as possible - avoid any air gaps/voids. If the resin bed fluidizes you didn't pack it tightly enough

2. Remove those DI stages from their clips and orient them vertically with bottom-up flow through each. You may need some clips and extra tubing to make this happen. The clips are made for either 2.0" or 2.5" diameter containers.

Horizontal DI stages are a fundamental design/configuration goof - often an indicator of drinking water RO systems assembled overseas with DI's scabbed on in the U.S. You're unlikely to find a top tier vendor with a configuration that includes horizontal DI stages.

Thanks alot guys
 
Mr. X gave me the idea for horizontal installation (which makes sense), and the tube on top is before the resin change.

In regards to the RO/DI's with horizontal config being considered a lower quality, I would have to disagree. Mine produced 0ppm until the resin started to look like the first pic you posted. Go to BRS and see that all of their systems have the horizontal DI's... They are extremely reputable and doubt they aren't selling quality.
 
Mr. X gave me the idea for horizontal installation (which makes sense), and the tube on top is before the resin change.

In regards to the RO/DI's with horizontal config being considered a lower quality, I would have to disagree. Mine produced 0ppm until the resin started to look like the first pic you posted. Go to BRS and see that all of their systems have the horizontal DI's... They are extremely reputable and doubt they aren't selling quality.

I think you might be confusing "RO membranes" and "DI resin cartridges."

RO membranes are almost always horizontal in residential scale systems - their orientation isn't as critical and can be addressed by how the tubing is routed.

That other vendor you mention doesn't sell any systems with horizontal DI stages. Ebay, on the other hand, is full of vendors that do...

Russ
 
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