How Good is Dripping?

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lasek2k1

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Messages
85
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Near 'That Fish Place'
A while ago, my boss told me that drip acclimating is never good for livestock. What he said was when fish are shipped, theres alot of diluted oxygen and ammonia in the bag. So when you open the bag and pour the contents into a bucket, the exposure to fresh oxygen actually increases the shock of ammonia to the fish and thats why they end up lying on thier side during acclimation.

I take alot of what he says with respect. I mean the man had a pair of breeding sea horses- with that alone I think his words have some weight.

Whats your input on this?
 
sounds possible but im shure there are ways around the shock of oxygen hitting the water
and as far as ive experienced dip is the safest way to keep your fish or inverts alive
 
Well everyone has their own way of doing it.....I personally just use shot glasses and pour a little in the bag they are shipped in to acclimate them. No way you do it is going to be perfect.
 
I believe the extra oxygen added by placing an airstone in the shipping bag spikes the pH, not the ammonia. I can't see a chemistry way of oxygen affecting the ammonia since oxygen is not part of the ammonia molecule.

I have acclimated fish both ways ( floating and drip) and I must say that I now drip everything. It seems less stressful to the fish and they enter the tank as if they have always been there. Drip brings them up to temp and allows them to adjust to the new pH and the salinity.

By the way - your question is just gave me an idea for a chemistry lab for my classes next year. Thanks. Kudos

JG
 
Ammonia toxicity changes at different PH so I imagine this could be true. I do drip everything though I'm sure I haven't perfected it yet!
 
I've never had a fish lay on its side during a drip acclimation. And I've acclimated 6 fish and a cleaner shrimp this way.
 
It really depends on how you have aquired the animal. If shipped via an etailer, the amount of ammonia in the transport bag will be higher depending on travel time. The good thing is most use pure O2 to fill the bags. With local pick up, this is not usually a concern.

The biggest mistake made by hobbyests in either case is not allowing a proper temp acclimation before opening the transport bag. This is a very important step. The increased/stabalized temp allows for the pH to come up some which helps prevent shocking the animal. This moreso is the reason for sudden losses along with too quick a change in salinity. The increased pH will increase the toxicity of ammonia but is very easy to dealt with if you keep a good detoxifier on hand. Everything I buy no matter the time transported gets a few drops of Prime added to the bag after a proper temp acclimation. This will detoxify (not remove) harmful ammonia and bind copper if used.

You can then test the transport waters salinity and manipulate the QT salinity to match before you begin acclimation. It's a quick process and does not add much time at all. Then it's simpley matter of chemistry acclimation. More often than not an LFS will keep a lowered salinity which helps in the stress of fish and also has a side benefit of saving on salt. Fish cannot quickly adapt to increases in salinity and must be done over days, not hours. If added to a QT with a matching salinity, the level can be raised nearer the time when it will be transitioned to the main over a period of days and not further stress the animal.

More often these two (pH/salinity) are the cause for "why'd my fish die".

Cheers
Steve
 
I float for 20 minutes, drip for 1-3 hours depending on the critter. I now do almost 3 hours on my snails and have noticed a marked increase in the number of survivors. I previously was unable to keep turbos alive long, but now that I drip them almost 3 hours I haven't lost one.
 
I drip acclimate everything too. No problems, no fish laying on their side and as soon as they are introduced into the aquarium they are swimming just fine and even looking for food. :D
 
JG said:
I believe the extra oxygen added by placing an airstone in the shipping bag spikes the pH, not the ammonia. I can't see a chemistry way of oxygen affecting the ammonia since oxygen is not part of the ammonia molecule.

I have acclimated fish both ways ( floating and drip) and I must say that I now drip everything. It seems less stressful to the fish and they enter the tank as if they have always been there. Drip brings them up to temp and allows them to adjust to the new pH and the salinity.

By the way - your question is just gave me an idea for a chemistry lab for my classes next year. Thanks. Kudos

JG

What exactly will be the purpose of this experiment? It would be cool though if I had teachers that kept SW fish in the classroom :lol:
 
lasek2k1 said:
JG said:

What exactly will be the purpose of this experiment? It would be cool though if I had teachers that kept SW fish in the classroom :lol:

I can think of several but one would be having the kids monitor the pH of a solution while having an airstone and pump oxygenating the water. THey would then plot the data and look for spikes. We could even connect a computer data collection system to a pH probe and collect data from a running aquarium 24 - 7 and look for pH fluctuations throughout the day and night.

I could go on and on, but am afraid I would bore you to tears.



As for a saltwater tank in the classroom - I've considered it. It would make a really great long term data collection project for the kids. Only problem is the summer time and what to do with the fish. I may still do it and stock it with a goby and a few chromis. These I could alwys bring home.
 
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