Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > Saltwater and Reef > Saltwater Reef Aquaria
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 09-22-2004, 09:36 PM   #11
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Richmond, Va
Posts: 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
I tested my PO4 last night and came up with 0.
I have heard that if the algae absorbs the phosphate as fast as it is created, your test results may never show a reading even though your tank is producing it. It makes sense, Phosphate test kits are more accurate if used to test your water source, not the tank.
__________________

__________________
46g SW, 65 lbs Fiji LR, 4" Aragamax DSB, Coralife 2X96w CF, CPR Bakpak II, CPR Aquafuge 12 w/ 2x9 Coralife Mini Aqualight, 4 Maxijet 600's, PCI 200W Titanium Heater, 2 Blue Green Chromis, 1 Gold Bar Maroon Clown, 1 Purple-Stripe Dottyback, Finger Leather, Trumpets, Rose Coral Open-Brain, Pagoda Cup, Xenia, Star Polyps, Yellow Polyps, Various Mushrooms, Toadstool Leather, 12 Astraea, 10 Nassarius, 4 Bumble Bee, 6 Cerith Snails, 12 Red Tip Hermits.
phases99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2004, 10:03 PM   #12
Moderator Emeritus
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Indiana USA
Posts: 2,694
I have tested both before and have had minimal readings in the past. Dead spots in my tank always seems to be hit the hardest but I can't add any more PH's at this point.
__________________

__________________
*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
ellisz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2004, 11:22 PM   #13
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 852
Send a message via MSN to sumphead
Mike, you have to remember it isn't the "dead spots" causing the cyano. Powerheads and flow isn't a cure, just a symtom treatment. Like I posted above look into thing YOU introduce to the tank: Foods, supplements...

When you upgraded to halides, did it get any worse, better, or about the same?

What salinity/SG are you running? If you are running a bit on the low side, 1.021-.022 try pumping it up to .025 (slowly of course) and see what happens. Most nuisance algeas don't fare well in higher gravities.

Other things: Get a sea hair, clean daily for a month, chenge salts, drink more beer... I think I am trying to suggest finding someway to break the chain.

HTH,
R-

BTW, how have you been? LOL
__________________
I wish I had a nickel for every miracle that you easily tricked me into. -Chris Robinson
sumphead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 12:12 AM   #14
Moderator Emeritus
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Indiana USA
Posts: 2,694
LOL, been fine really

I did add 2 aquacultured conchs. SteveS had mentioned strombus snails will eat cyano and I believe these are of that family. Not sure if they are working though.

I would say it got a bit worse with the Halides. The PC bulbs I had before were approaching 10 months in service as well. Some parts have got better where other areas still get the same.

SG is 1.023 via a deepsix. I know my temps are higher since the MH. I hit 83.6 at the end of the day. I keep meaning to either try blowing air in vs out or swapping the bigger fans in I bought but that waould mean taking the top off the tank and I have not done it yet The tank is in the basement so room temp is pretty steady and cool.

I will keeping fighting the fight
__________________
*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
ellisz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 11:24 AM   #15
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by phases99
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
I tested my PO4 last night and came up with 0.
I have heard that if the algae absorbs the phosphate as fast as it is created, your test results may never show a reading even though your tank is producing it. It makes sense, Phosphate test kits are more accurate if used to test your water source, not the tank.
Excellent point! The test kits will also not be able to detect organic PO4 which can be just as bad if not worse than what can be read by the test kit.

PO4 in whatever form is typically the main cause for cyano problems above all else. Eliminating them should be the first step in combating cyano. I would honestly suggest a non-aluminum based PO4 granular sponge at your next opportunity. It would need to be changed daily for the first few days and should not be left in long term. You should notice a difference before the end of the first week if it's working or not.

Salinity and temp will also play a role to some degree but moreso the temp. If you can get that heat down and keep the tank stable closer to 80°, it will help.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 11:28 AM   #16
Aquarium Advice Activist
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 128
If the test kits are unable to test for organic forms of PO4, then what sort of test would you recommend? Would a Hach or Lamotte kit be able to detect the PO4 in that form? I have access to a Hach 2010 spectro and the necessary reagents to test for just about anything under the sun...or the sea.
__________________
"If you don't fish, you should..."
diverdown69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 11:39 AM   #17
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,832
Send a message via Yahoo to quarryshark
eleminating PO4 does work. I spent the last couple of months attacking this problem and have eliminated it.
I first added a deioniozer to my RO unit, did weekly 15 gallon water changes with the improved water, siphoning everything I could get.
Upgraded to a monster skimmer.
Added some more LR (got a mantis as a bonus, just found him last night )
Added a couple of powerheads and ran a PO4 sponge every week until it was all but gone.
Changed or cleaned my polyfilter every 3-4 days.
Nice to be able to see my coraline again. Its a bit of work, but worth it.
__________________
quarryshark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 11:49 AM   #18
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by diverdown69
If the test kits are unable to test for organic forms of PO4, then what sort of test would you recommend?
There is no standard test kits you can get at the LFS or online that will read for organic PO4.

Quote:
Would a Hach or Lamotte kit be able to detect the PO4 in that form? I have access to a Hach 2010 spectro and the necessary reagents to test for just about anything under the sun...or the sea.
I think it should but I have never had the opportunity to try. I found >>this tidbit<< that might help, it's near the bottom of the page. >>This<< brief description of Phosphorous may also be useful.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 12:22 PM   #19
Moderator Emeritus
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Indiana USA
Posts: 2,694
What sponge would you recommend? I have tried phosguard and no changes seem to be apparent. I have also read that cheap carbon can release phospahte back into the water. Is this true?
__________________
*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
ellisz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2004, 12:28 PM   #20
Aquarium Advice Activist
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 128
Cool page! The one describing the different methodologies is great. One of my first research projects involved membrane filtration of NSW and microbiological media looking for Enterococcus in beach waters. The methodology for fecal coliform and Enterococcus is different only in the growth media used and the verification techniques.
I may get a sample of my tank water and bring it here tomorrow so I can run a spectro test for PO4. I have never seen the one that they are describing. The ones I have used recently use the PhosVer powder pillows and the spectro as a means of quantifying the PO4 load in the water. It doesn't involve boiling the sample or anything like that. If I get the chance to run a sample, I'll post up results and detection limits of the test I use. It is an all-in-one PO4 test that will look for orthophosphate (P2O5) and standard PO4 in oxidized and reduced forms.
__________________

__________________
"If you don't fish, you should..."
diverdown69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Some small stuff to get rid of fishb0ne Archive 0 09-18-2007 02:57 PM
red stuff on everything bapski Freshwater & Brackish - General Discussion 3 04-07-2006 11:52 AM
Best way to rid your tank of RED SLIME? Pics Enclosed gump3842k Saltwater Reef Aquaria 2 08-09-2004 02:18 PM
What is this red stuff and white stuff dwarr1088 Saltwater & Reef - Identification 3 01-19-2004 06:01 PM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.