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Old 03-25-2014, 05:21 PM   #11
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I suggested phosguard, different product. If you don't have a P4 problem, then why run anything?
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:30 PM   #12
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Oh sorry my fault, haha.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:38 PM   #13
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the tank shows a reading of 0.03 because its full of algae, which is being fed by the 0.15 ppm reading i got from in the sand bed. at least thats my theory makes sense
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:57 PM   #14
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how to remove phosphate

Makes some sense. P4 can get built up because biological actions (growing algae or even bacteria) reduce nitrates at a almost 16:1 over P4. Once the nitrates are bound up, no more P4 can be taken up thru biological process's. The only down side to using a P4 binder like GFO or phosguard is they can potentially harm corals by stripping the water of nutrients the corals algae need to sustain itself. My understanding is that anything from 0.05ppm to as much as 0.10 is optimum for hard coral growth. The closer to the 0.05 you get the better the color.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:07 PM   #15
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hmm im confused what is my best course of action? im only keeping this system for another 5 months to grow my corals while i build and cycle my new tank. i wouldn't mind the algae so much but it seems to be bothering my zoas.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:23 PM   #16
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how to remove phosphate

The algae reduction process isn't just about phosphates. Reduction of the tanks photoperiod and reducing feedings using foods that have been rinsed first are where you start. You're already doing most of the things like RO/DI. There is no problem with adding a bag of phosguard, GFO or even purigen. They will reduce the dissolved organics, including P4. Just add it in a bag to a high flow area of the sump.

It becomes a balancing act. Organic compounds need to be kept low to starve out the nuisance algae while not too much so you don't starve the algae in the corals.

Interesting side note, I believe natural reef levels of P4 are 0.007ppm. So why doesn't this starve out the algae in the coral? My theory is that our captive reef inhabitants depend mainly on photosynthesis from their algae. Not much planktonic life for them to filter. But in the wild, they get a lot more nourishment by filter feeding and they aren't so totally dependent on light. So that makes our captive corals more sensitive to the amount of algae they support.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:32 PM   #17
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ok i have an old hob filter i think ill use that with a bag of phosguard in it. off topic but what do you think about removing my sand bed sections at a time since thats where my problems are all steming from? im worried to touch it as its 5 years old and as i know full of phosphate
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:34 PM   #18
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how to remove phosphate

I think that siphoning out a small section prior to your water exchange would be okay. Just don't get carried away and make sure the siphon does the work and you're not stirring stuff up. Next time stock a critter that digs in the sand all the time.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:34 PM   #19
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im thinking about just siphoning out all my sand at once. all my live rock is in the sump all thats in the tank is a frag rack and corals/livestock. any thoughts or advice? i know ill lose all the good bacteria but i think at this point the dsb is doing more harm than good, plus i have so many pounds of live rock in my sump so im sure itll help out a bit once the sand is gone...
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:06 PM   #20
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this should be a new thread..
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