Huge algae die-off??

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JLH-l3ioCub3

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
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313
Since I upgraded my filtration, I've had large amounts of coralline algae disappear, as well as another type of algae that was all over the place and looked like montipora the way it grew out like shelves. At the same time I upgraded my filtration, I also upgraded my lights. I would have thought I would get more algae growth, not lose it all together!
I'm also having problems with all LPS corals. Some are not growing at all and some are dying off, such as my flowerpot. It has faired the worst. Most others are just stagnant and don't want to open up sometimes. My SPS on the other hand has gone haywire with huge amounts of growth and polyp extension.
Could it be that my water is too clean?
Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates: 0
Nitrite: 0
Phosphates: 0
Ammo: 0
Ph : 8.2
SG: 1.026

I started running carbon about 2 weeks ago because my colt coral and GSP wouldn't open at all. About 12 hours after adding it they bounced back and are looking better. However, they're still not like they were. What is really troubling me is the algae die-off. I'm thinking that whatever is causing that, is causing the coral issues as well.
I've always had trace amounts of nitrates and battled elevated levels of phosphates all the time
Hair algae was always a problem. Now, it's non-existent along with everything else!
Chaeto algae and halameda in the fuge are growing well though.
Any ideas what the issue could be?
 
What is your calcium reading? Also what type and brand of lighting do you have?
 
Possible issue with calcium, alk, or mag.

I don't have an alk or mag test kit
I'm thinking I'm gonna have to order those. I'm clueless as to how the mag would affect the algae or LPS. My understanding was that a healthy level of mag (1250-1350) helps sustain a stable calcium level. I know corals use the mag, but I never understood the importance. I guess I just never dug that deep. I understand Alk and ph go hand in hand but that's something else I haven't been well acquainted with.
 
Would it hurt to dose mag? I used to dose it but was advised not to dose something I don't have the ability to test. Same with iodine. I try to sustain the calcium with my pwc's and haven't dosed it for a while. It steadily hangs around 420-450 so I didn't see a great need to dose it.
I have however been dosing "Fuel" by aqua vitro twice a week.
 
I'd be less concerned about mag and more interested in the alk level. But yes, don't dose if you don't test.

In terms of fuel, I've used it as well but haven't seen any benefit besides it helping my algae grow.
 
I'd be less concerned about mag and more interested in the alk level. But yes, don't dose if you don't test.

In terms of fuel, I've used it as well but haven't seen any benefit besides it helping my algae grow.

I had the Alk and ph tested yesterday at my LFS and he said it was at 2-3, I'm assuming dkh. He said it was fine but my ph was a little low at 8.1.
He said that was strange being that normally if ph is low, then Alk is high and vice versa. He said add buffer and keep an eye on it. He also said I'd be better off talking to the owner-his son who is a marine biologist on Thursday and he would know better what's going on and what to do. I just thought I'd come and pick your brain in the mean time.
 
Oh I forgot to mention he tested calcium and it came out pretty low at 350. However, the week before it tested at 420 not sure why the sudden drop but I got it back up to around 450 yesterday after dosing reef code B.
 
What kind of filtration did you upgrade to?

An eshopps R200 fuge rated for 125-225 gal.
Also put an Aqua Eruro 200 cone skimmer rated for up to 200 gal.
All I had before was an undersized wet/dry sump.
 
Did you acclimate your corals with your new upgraded lightings? If not I would return the old lighting and follow acclimation with new lights. Skimmers and filter socks should be off when feeding.
 
Did you acclimate your corals with your new upgraded lightings? If not I would return the old lighting and follow acclimation with new lights. Skimmers and filter socks should be off when feeding.


I moved all corals to the bottom with the exception of the colt because it was under high lighting when I bought it. Other than that I didn't do much for acclimating. The zoas, button polyps, flower pot, and Ricordea were the only to show signs that they were unhappy, but acclimated within a week. The flower pot is still not looking well, but has slowly started coming back. Think I'm going to move that one down further. I also thought about putting screen over the tank to help...
Why turn skimmer when feeding?
Old lighting is gone. I sold it.
 
Your corals were obviously exposed to sudden high intensity lighting. A prolonged shock is the result they are dieing. The screen should have been done earlier. I turn off skimmer when feeding with pyto plankton just to minimize waste of lighter nutrients for corals.
 
Your corals were obviously exposed to sudden high intensity lighting. A prolonged shock is the result they are dieing. The screen should have been done earlier. I turn off skimmer when feeding with pyto plankton just to minimize waste of lighter nutrients for corals.

Sorry for the late reply.
Maybe I should be feeding phytoplankton. I think you're right about them being shocked by the intense lighting but that doesn't explain the coralline algae die off. I've still had no new growth and its been a couple months. My chaeto is doing great though..
My calcium level has been steady between 400-450. This has me stumped. I didn't have the problem until I upgraded the filtration. It makes sense to me that there is 0 to little excess nutrients in the tank. It seems there has to be some for the chaeto to thrive but maybe it's leaching out what ever is there.
 
One cause of coraline algae die off is when you have an unstable water parameter. From what you have said your values are fluctuating and it is not good. You need to get a magnesium tester so you can regulate your calcium properly. They both go hand in hand and coral do consume them so you need to dose your tank regularly. Do you use ro/di for your salt mix and top off? LPS do require less lighting intensity unlike SPS. You only feed pythoplankton if you have filter feeder corals.
 
One cause of coraline algae die off is when you have an unstable water parameter. From what you have said your values are fluctuating and it is not good. You need to get a magnesium tester so you can regulate your calcium properly. They both go hand in hand and coral do consume them so you need to dose your tank regularly. Do you use ro/di for your salt mix and top off? LPS do require less lighting intensity unlike SPS. You only feed pythoplankton if you have filter feeder corals.

Will start checking and dosing mag. As for the water, yes It's RO/DI and I buy water at my local LFS. My problem with the LPS and sps is that when I started this hobby i had a 29 bio cube and so much of my sps and LPS are on the same rocks and have grown around each other. I can't put the LPS lower in the water column and sps higher. I lowered everything as far down as I could and left it at that until the corals acclimated. Problem is, now the sps loves the light and LPS is very unhappy. I think I'm gonna have to separate them somehow. Frag it all out I guess... I do have filter feeders so I guess It wouldn't hurt to get some plankton.
 
If your light has no intensity controller or dimmer a filter screen should work. You may have to compromise between the lps and sps lighting intensity until you can split them.
 
If your light has no intensity controller or dimmer a filter screen should work. You may have to compromise between the lps and sps lighting intensity until you can split them.

Sounds good. Getting the screen on today.
 
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