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Old 02-28-2008, 12:41 AM   #11
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Properly cycled? Ammonia and nitrite spiked, I thought that meant that the cycle had taken place. The damsels are going to be removed this weekend. Re-tested ammonia and it's now at 0 ppm nitrite is at 0 ppm nitrate is at 20 ppm but my pH dropped to 7.8 which is probably because I removed about 1/2 gallon salt water and substituted with ro/di water (to get sg down from 1.03).
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:41 AM   #12
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Sorry... I thought you'd put the damsels in before you cycled the tank and cycled the tank using the fish. I was thinking you never really had 0ppm ammonia since adding the fish, but I must be confusing your post with another one.

I DO remember though that you have the chicken pox! Thinking that should've just about run its course by now, and you don't have to worry about getting a case of those again ever in your life!
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Old 02-28-2008, 08:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt_Nelson View Post

I DO remember though that you have the chicken pox! Thinking that should've just about run its course by now, and you don't have to worry about getting a case of those again ever in your life!
Unless you get shingles wich is an adult version of chicken pox and yes even if you had chicken pox you can get shingles :p
You should still be reading zero tho once your tank matures even in a smaller one , I know I am stocked pretty hard in our 10 an now they are all at 0 Only my nitrAtes and phosphates are high but I am working on that one
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:24 AM   #14
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What is your SG reading now?

Are you testing pH at the same time each day? The reading will be lower before the lights come on and be highest when they are turned off at night. RODI water should not affect the pH that much on a 5% water change.

Can you test for Alkalinity?

As for feeding, try some smaller pellets <g>, or other prepared food (flake). Just feed sparingly and you should be ok.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:19 PM   #15
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My sg is down to 1.025, I don't know how much lower I should go. I tested pH right before turning off the light, but i will test again tonight. I don't have an alkalinity test kit currently, does alkalinity have something to do with the pH?

ha after this i wish i woulda got chicken pox as a kid.....

this weekend I am planning on losing the damsels and getting one black ocellaris clown
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Old 02-29-2008, 02:39 PM   #16
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1.025 is great for a reed tank. A FO should be a little lower, around 1.022 - 1.024.

Read The Relationship Between Alkalinity and pH-CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM

Alkalinity is an indication of the buffering capabiility of the water to maintain a pH
level.

Make sure you test pH at the same time of day each time you test.
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:58 PM   #17
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If instead of a shrimp, how would a porcelain crab do with hermits and smaller fish?
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:20 AM   #18
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Well This time I tried a peppermint shrimp. Did a 45 minute acclimation, but it still died shortly after being introduced to the tank. I did switch the damsels for two firefish, they appear to be doing fine. I have a mini-star fish living in my aquarium, why cant a shrimp???
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:38 AM   #19
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I first purchased a Swing arm type hydrometer then after joining this forum, I purchased a refreactometer, I tested the hydrometer against the refractometer and found the numbers to be the exact same!

However after several months of use I found my refeactometer would not zero, and some how was stuck. I had to buy another. But I check my salinity with my refractometer weekly, and I check it with the hydrometer from time to time just to get a second opinion if you will.

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Old 03-02-2008, 08:57 AM   #20
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This is a shot in the dark but perhaps you should test for copper . I am not sure why a star would be ok but a shrimp would not, I would also try a shorter acclimation time.
Thechad I am not sure why your refract will not 0 but have you callibrated it ? If so I would call where you got it or return it as it sounds like a manufacture problem ... It also sounds like it may have been dropped not by you perhaps but at the store or the factory ..
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