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zacdl

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Ive seen lots of cool ideas, but I cannot come up with a small, simple overflow.
Obviously the best way to do it it seems is to drill the tank, which I am not for doing.

Is there anyway I can have a sump without the big overflows or drilling the tank?
 
As an alternative, check out the CPR CS (continuous siphon) series of overflow boxes. It has a built in siphon that can be adjusted with screws to set the water level in your tank (no u-tube to mess with). You can also purchase an aqua lifter pump that quickly and easily attaches to the top of the siphon to prevent any siphon breaks. Even if the power goes out and the siphon breaks, when the power comes back on the pump quickly sucks the air out of the top and you're back in business. As an additional plus, you don't have a large box hanging there on the inside of your display tank. In the sump, you can position the return pump high up near the max water level (with suction cups or some other means). That will work as a fail safe...that way, if the siphon were to break during an electrical outage and the aqualifter pump were to fail at the same time, the return pump is limited to how much water it could pump back into the display tank. The worst that would happen is you could lose your return pump if it runs dry too long. I'd rather this happen than a flood. Also, be sure to place the outlet of your return line high enough in the display tank to prevent a large volume of siphoning back into the sump if your return pump were to fail. That way your sump won't overflow. I have this set-up on my 72 gal bowfront and it works perfectly every day. Best of luck to you.
 
Frankly, u-tubes in overflow boxes work just fine. I used 4 of them in my coral farm and that is what I am using on the eel tank.
 
I just say get the overflow. Honestly, you won't even notice that they are there. I don't notice mine anymore. If you don't want to drill... overflow you must go.
 
Remember, U-Tubes do not require a pump to start back up, so there is less danger of a big spill when the air pump fails too. U-Tubes work on Physics, not electronics. Remember, one of those (Physics v. Electronics) is what the Universe operates on!
 
Used and will use overflow on my tanks. I have had enough power outages (both while I was here and while I was not) to know that *if* you install it by the book, you will not run into issues. If you fear the overflow and aren't willing to drill (Amen.) then consider closed loop or HOB fuge. Anyway, the only water on my floor has been from my own idiot mistakes.

http://www.aquaplumbers.com/index.p...s_id=6&zenid=f54f592956d54de60398c1b6000e349d

Best of luck!
 
Actually, the CPR CS overflow boxes do not require the aqualifter pump to start back-up if there is a power outage. It is merely a safety back-up in the unlikely event of a siphon break. I put one on mine (they cost all of about $9) because it makes me feel more at ease... it would be just my luck that the siphon would break while I was on vacation. I've seen postings on this site describing siphon breaks after power outages with u-tubes. Maybe they were not installed correctly... hard to say. I think that the CS series is better (and probably safer) than a u-tube. I have yet to see any postings on this site to the contrary.
 
What is the smallest size of the CRP overflow? Is it the 50 model? Thats kinda high isnt it? $80??? wow


Is there anything more reasonable priced that doesnt stick out very far?
 
Here is a Q for you all:

Should I have one pump filling the tank and the other pump going back to the sump? or would this be asking for trouble? I would still rather do the overflow but its either $70 for an overflow it seems, or something, or a DIY version which sticks out a foot!
 
there is a CPR CS50 its about 60 bucks.
For glass or acrylic aquariums up to 60 gal.
Flow rate 300 GPH.
6.5" wide
3/4" bulkhead outflow
 
well...the other one I have is 3' and this is less....so I would have to guess at about 2".
I can measure when I get home but it is a nice product for the price....come with all the stuff needed too...hose and fixtures
 
Did you take the sponge out to keep the nitrates down? I took mine out for that reason and then noticed lots of gunk accumulating on the plastic drain (the one that is normally covered by the sponge). I was afraid that the gunk would begin to obstruct the drain so I cleaned it off and put the sponge back on. Now you've got me thinking that I should take the sponge back off... what do you think? How long does it take for nitrate producing bacteria to start colonizing on the sponge? Should I leave the sponge on and just rinse it in fresh RO water every few days or just leave the sponge off completely?
 
i took it out cause after about 2 weeks it became clogged....why need it? the LR rubble and LR is my filter
unforantely the gunk/slime is just a thing you'll have to deal with saltwater... I will end up breakin down my overflows very few months or so and cleaning them as I have to do to my PS
 
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