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Old 04-01-2004, 04:37 PM   #11
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I just built a canopy with 1x6's and then put some blocks inside to support the PC fixture. Mine sits about 3" off the top of the water. I want to build another with 1x8's so I can completely cover the light fixture. It sits level with the top of 1x6 so I can turn the lights on/off. With the addition of a timer, I no longer mess with that.

Congrats on the success.
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:12 PM   #12
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anyone have a picture of eggcrate?
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
anyone have a picture of eggcrate?
Here you go, Micheal: http://www.selectacoustic.com/eggcrate.htm

It is the same stuff used in fluorescent lighting fixtures in buildings. You can buy it from Home Depot and Lowes for around $6 for a 2' X 4' section.
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:19 PM   #14
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Some eggcrate isn't thinner on once side. If yours is like this then go get the good stuff with concave sides. For VHO, this stuff can actually INCREASE the amount of light entering the water.
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bang Guy
For VHO, this stuff can actually INCREASE the amount of light entering the water.
Not doubting you but how does it incease the light entering the water? Does it channel the light downwards better?
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Old 04-01-2004, 08:54 PM   #16
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Exactly. Light striking the water at a shallow angle just reflects. The eggcrate can reflect the angled light down where it penetrates the water surface instead of reflecting. This isn't true for all lighting methods but it's true for NO, HO and VHO. It is not true for MH where a high quality reflector serves the purpose better than what eggcrate can do.
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Old 04-03-2004, 10:06 PM   #17
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I was thinking of building a miniature canopy for my little 10 gallon tank to make it look nicer and this sounds like something perfect to incorporate into my design! I've got an 18 watt actinic NO and a 32 watt 50/50 PC, both with fairly crappy reflectors.

Until recently, I was just using a glasstop to set my light fixtures on. Now I've got little stands holding my lights about 3" off the water. They're really crappy and need to be replaced ASAP. Until I have the time/money to build my little canopy, I may try using this egg crate stuff to hold my lights up.

If I do this, my fixtures will be about 1" off the water....Will this cause problems with salt/saltwater getting on the lights?
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Old 04-03-2004, 11:36 PM   #18
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high quality reflector serves the purpose better than what eggcrate can do
speaking of which where can i get one. i need something about 48"w x 9"d x 4"-5"h
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Old 04-05-2004, 02:01 PM   #19
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Does this apply only for tank covers or also the actual light cover? My pc are on legs and a few inches above the water. I regualry clean the salt creep off the cover but am def interested in getting more light!!
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Old 04-05-2004, 05:52 PM   #20
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Does this apply only for tank covers or also the actual light cover? My pc are on legs and a few inches above the water. I regualry clean the salt creep off the cover but am def interested in getting more light!!
Yes I would like to know also. I have to either line the inside of my new hood or make a reflector for the top. I have been looking around for light gauge reflector material to bend into a reflector for all the lights.

Hood is 72 inches long by 20 inches wide by 18 inches tall (where the lights will be mounted). Then there will be a 6 by 6 inch "attic" for ventilation with (2) 5 inch fans forcing air into the hood and forcing the warm air out the top.

It will have 2 MH 175 watt with 14,000 or 20,000K lamps. One at each end. In the middle will be (4) 48 inch flourescent lamps. 2 will be actinic and 2 will be daylight or 50/50. All will be controlled individually via a PLC along with the tempature controller for the hood. When the temp gets to a certain point, the fans will kick on to cool it.

Also have a digital temp controller for the water. That will be installed some time after I finish the top.

Mike
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