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Old 05-20-2005, 10:50 AM   #11
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I've been going through this same struggle. The tide seems to have finally turned for me though. It looks to be improving. I've been feeding a very tiny amount once a week. Since starting that about 6 weeks ago, I think things have started to turn around. It's not gone, but at least it's not covering my sand bed in a matter of days anymore.
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:04 PM   #12
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I used Red Slime Remover.

The first time I used it, the cyano came back. I dosed again a couple months later and it hasn't come back since. (knock on wood). It's been maybe 5 months since I did that.

Unfortunately, the cyano went away and the hair algae took over.
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Old 05-21-2005, 03:23 AM   #13
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The tank has been running as a reef for about 15 months now. Skimmer is a Prism Pro. I know...everyone hates the Prism Pro, but it certainly skims enough that I have to clean it out weekly, so I think it is working pretty well.

I mix my foods, but feed mostly assorted frozen stuff once every 2 days. I had been feeding DTs as well, but I've cut that out now. I think that many of my filter feeders are dying now either because of the cyano or lack of food.

I've tested the various frozen foods for phosphates and some are worse than others. Regardless, there is no detectable phosphate in the tank.

I've always used Kent salt. No particular reason. I've tested fresh salt mix and not found any phosphates. Nevertheless, I sometimes think that the cyano seems to return faster if I INCREASE the size of a water exchange.

SPS corals all look great. In fact, they are doing really, really well. My mushroom leather isn't happy though, and my star polyps haven't opened in weeks.

SpG is at 1.023 (hydrometre measurement...so you have to adjust that one based on 80 degrees...might be 1.024 or so...), Nitrate - 0; Phosphate - 0; Ca - 380; Alk - 2.86mEq; Ph - 8.3 (approx - test kit);

My Magnesium is low (1050ppm). I've tried adding some Seachem Mg, but I think I would have to add the entire bottle to make a difference. I can't see Mg being the problem though.

Kalk is delivered 24/7 through a dosing pump.

Where I'm at now is I am aggressively vaccuuming my sand bed and replacing 5% water daily. I've done that 3 days in a row now.
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:17 AM   #14
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What about your water source? Are you using RO/DI water? I had some some luck after changing out the DI filter in my RO unit. It was practilly brand new but I chnaged it anyway. Cyano went away.

I feel for you. I hate that stuff.
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad
The tank has been running as a reef for about 15 months now. Skimmer is a Prism Pro. I know...everyone hates the Prism Pro, but it certainly skims enough that I have to clean it out weekly, so I think it is working pretty well.
No arguement from me, I have the Pro deluxe

Quote:
I've tested the various frozen foods for phosphates and some are worse than others. Regardless, there is no detectable phosphate in the tank.
This is what often misleads people, the lack of detectable PO4. The cyano is consuming it as fast as it enters the system. Also keep in mind, test kits cannot read organic forms of PO4, only inorganic. The simple fact is, cyano is dependant on phosphates to survive. No PO4, no cyano. Nitrogens play a role as well but not with the same dependancey as phosphates.

Quote:
I've always used Kent salt. No particular reason. I've tested fresh salt mix and not found any phosphates. Nevertheless, I sometimes think that the cyano seems to return faster if I INCREASE the size of a water exchange.
It's not the salt itself but what all salt contains, I've used Kent salt for over 10 years without issue. The elements added each time will somewhat contribute to cyano growth. If you do not use RO/DI as ellisz pointed out, that will be a huge contributor. RO alone will not help either. Keep in mind as well cyano can actually manufacture it's own food sources to some degree keeping it alive so any amount of added nutrient is growth material.

Quote:
Ca - 380; Alk - 2.86mEq;
The Ca could use a good boost based on your alk level but this isn't really a contributor nor is the Mg.


Quote:
Where I'm at now is I am aggressively vaccuuming my sand bed and replacing 5% water daily.
Cyano control in the sandbed is best accomplished with conch snails. They are about the only thing that will consume it purposefully. Siphoning off the rocks and such is a good goal though. Remove the algae and you export some nutrient with it.

IME, your best solution is rethink some of your food types (not so much feeding schedule), RO/DI water unless already used and possibley the use of a ferric oxide PO4 sponge. You might eventually kick the cyano through water changes and better food choices but it doesn't hurt to help it along, especially in removing organic PO4. Once in the system it becomes a never ending chemical circle.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 05-21-2005, 04:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
your best solution is rethink some of your food types (not so much feeding schedule)
Steve, what would recommend? A specific commercial brand/blend, blender mush...? Sorry about the hijack Brad, I could use some help also. Thanks
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Old 05-21-2005, 07:10 PM   #17
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Water has always been RO/DI.

Quote:
the lack of detectable PO4. The cyano is consuming it as fast as it enters the system. Also keep in mind, test kits cannot read organic forms of PO4, only inorganic.
That is a thought...I've been using some RowaPhos off and on lately. I haven't left it in for long periods since I couldn't detect any Phosphate. I'll just leave it in there for a while.

Today we'll do more sand vaccuuming and replace a LARGE amount of tank water.
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Old 05-22-2005, 01:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Water has always been RO/DI.
Good, but make sure your filters are not old. When I got my RO/DI unit, I could get a PO4 reading from the RO/DI water. I had to change the DI filter to correct the problem. The unit was almost new as well.

Just a thought.
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Old 05-22-2005, 03:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by MT79
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your best solution is rethink some of your food types (not so much feeding schedule)
Steve, what would recommend? A specific commercial brand/blend, blender mush...? Sorry about the hijack Brad, I could use some help also. Thanks
It's not that I actually recommend one over the other, moreso that I highly suggest reading the label. Many types of dried foods especially contain vitamin substitutes that are quite high in organic PO4 and usable iron. L-Ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (a type of vitamin C) being high on the list but be equally as wary of those that just say "vitamins" without actually listing what types.

If your having nuisance algae issues, switch to a frozen prepared food. Either make it yourself (best option) or look for one that is more basic in nutritional value. Being frozen, most manufactureres do not need to add preservatives and can use actual stabalized vitamin C instead of the alternative.

Cheers
Steve
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