I'm throwing in the towel

[Clown Monarch]

I've surrendered to algae. I can't stop it. It's growing in huge chunks everywhere. It's choked out my corals. What's weird is that at one time I had absolutely NO algae whatsoever.

I've left the lights off for 4 consecutive days now.


I do have plans for the rebirth, however. I'm moving the tank to my basement and will be using my current tank as the wet/dry/refugium for the main tank (125). I want to solve MANY problems by having the new tank drilled. The benefits seems to be substantial (never worry about power outages/lost siphons, placing the skimmer in the wet dry, placing macroalgae in the wet dry, top-offs, etc.)

First question - where do I get a drilled tank and what's the best way to set it up?

 

[roka64]

I would suggest doing a special order from your LFS. On a tank that size, you would probably end up paying as much as your do at your LFS, due to shipping. I check auctionzip.com for local auctions. I bought my 55G and stand for $67.
On the algae:
How old are your lights?
How much/how often/what do you feed?
What kind of flow do you have?

 

[english-nick]

I've had the same problem with my tank. I have more than enough flow (2 Tunze Stream pumps), use RO/DI water (TDS of zero for top-off), feed every other day (no flake food to add phosphate), using bulbs that are only 2 months old, run macro in a 50 gallon fuge, and overskim the tank. Water parameters are optimal.

Basically, everything is set up correctly and I haven't been doing anything to provoke algal growth. Suddenly I have been overcome with hair algae (looks like Derbesia).

My liverock and sand bed came from a tank that was laying fallow. I believe that both of these are now leaching undesirable elemjents into the tank (phosphate to feed the algae). The phosphate is consumed as soon as it reaches the tank which compounds the problem as levels remain undetectable.

To remedy the problem, I have removed the sandbed (quite a task in a 180). I'm also taking each rock out and scrubbing off any undesirable growth. I have increased water changes to multiple times a week.

I started this regime on Saturday. So far the results have been positive. It's still too early to tell if this will become a long term solution. I've given myself a one month timeline to get the problem sorted.

*fingers crossed*

 

[melosu58]

I would suggest that you not use the wet dry when you restart. They are notorious for being a nitrate factory which is where your algea is getting it`s fuel if you are not doing frequent PWC`s. I would suggest a refugium that will help to get rid of your excessive nutrients. When you ask your LFS about your tank ask him about a refugium or make your own. Here is a good article on them.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=33

 

[Clown Monarch]

I would suggest doing a special order from your LFS. On a tank that size, you would probably end up paying as much as your do at your LFS, due to shipping. I check auctionzip.com for local auctions. I bought my 55G and stand for $67.
On the algae:
How old are your lights?
How much/how often/what do you feed?
What kind of flow do you have?

The only potential problem is the lack of flow in the tank. I changed the lights a few mon ths ago to see if that would help (the old ones were only about 9 months old (PC). I upgraded to a Remora Pro skimmer. I've been pulling algae out manually for months. I replaced the bulb and cleaned out my UV sterilizer. I reduced the amount of light in the tank. I used phosphate sponges in the wet/dry. I use RO water. I was doing PWCs every week. Nothing.

I did reduce the amount of flow in the tank because my corals simply don't like too much flow. I guess it beats getting choked out by algae. I actually increased the flow for several weeks but wasn't getting any results and was tired of hearing the pump rattle.

I would suggest that you not use the wet dry when you restart. They are notorious for being a nitrate factory which is where your algea is getting it`s fuel if you are not doing frequent PWC`s. I would suggest a refugium that will help to get rid of your excessive nutrients. When you ask your LFS about your tank ask him about a refugium or make your own. Here is a good article on them.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/article_view.php?faq=2&fldAuto=33

Great info btw, guys - and english-nick, thanks for the suggestions on flake foods. I didn't know that was such a contributor. I feed substantial amounts of flakes.

I don't think there'll be a problem with the new wet dry when I get it set up. It will pretty much be what my wet/dry is now - a box with 100 micron filtration coming in, moving through live rock pieces - and back into the tank. There's nothing to become a nitrate factory.

With my new 125 wet/dry - i'm taking it a step further. Thru 100 micron, thru live rock AND macroalgae. Not to mention if I have the tank drilled, I'm going to substantially upgrade the flow of the return pump (since I no longer have to worry about problems). I'm pretty pumped about the new wet/dry system.

 

[roka64]

Can you buy an extra ph with the water diffuser and point it directly at specific areas? I tested this with my current phs and it stripped the hair algae off with in a day.

 

[hc8719]

sorry to interupt, but whats a drilled tank?

 

[lando]

sorry to interupt, but whats a drilled tank?

It is a tank that is known as "reef ready". It comes with an internal overflow and is designed to be used with a sump or fuge under the tank.

 

[Clown Monarch]

sorry to interupt, but whats a drilled tank?

It is a tank that is known as "reef ready". It comes with an internal overflow and is designed to be used with a sump or fuge under the tank.

Thanks for jumping in, lando. As I understand it, the tank has a hole drilled through the bottom of the tank where a pvc tube can be attached to the top and bottom of the glass. The bottom leading to the sump and the top extending to the surface of the water. In my mind, this is the preferred setup and if I could start over I'd definitely go that route (and it looks like I will).

Not only does it eliminate the need for a siphon or electrical and water-metering intricacies, but it will provide a built-in surface skimmer and allow me to set the return flow however high I want it. It also allows me a much larger sump since I don't have to worry about electrical loss/display tank overflow.

The only problem is that I've never even seen a drilled tank. I will find out if one can be ordered through my LFS.

At one time I did have excellent water flow but the tank was continuously clouded with debris and the corals didn't appear to appreciate it. One variable that appears to correlate is the feeding of flake food. I used to feed mysis and formula two every other day but when my PBT started developing skin discolorations I traced it to the fact that he switched his diet from vegetables to shrimp and was suffering for it. I cut back mysis drastically and bought a variety of veggie-based flakes. It took a while but it does make sense that the algae would come from that change.

Can you buy an extra ph with the water diffuser and point it directly at specific areas? I tested this with my current phs and it stripped the hair algae off with in a day.

I have no shortage of PHs, the problem seems to be that adding a moderate amount of flow to the entire tank would require me to fill the tank with PHs - or add 1 and BLAST a certain area.

With the new drilled tank, I'm thinking about making the return tube snake over the top and down to the bottom of the tank where it will run the distance of the tank. I'll drill holes all along the tube so water flow is dispersed evenly throughout. The only issue then is I'll need a check valve on the retun in case of power outage and a shutoff valve in front of it in case of check valve failure.


btw, it appears that lighting has NOTHING to do with the algae problem. I turned the lights on after 4 days to find massive algae growth.

 

[roka64]

it appears that lighting has NOTHING to do with the algae problem.

Hmm, sounds like you have a lot of extra nutrience in your water.
What are your water parameters?

 

[Clown Monarch]

it appears that lighting has NOTHING to do with the algae problem.

Hmm, sounds like you have a lot of extra nutrience in your water.
What are your water parameters?

Clean as far as Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Normal pH. I don't have a test for phosphate. Do they even make one that's reasonably priced?

 

[roka64]

$5.99 on drsfostersmith.com

I have the seachem one and it is hard to read....

 

[lando]

GHA is a PITA, but with work can be over-come. As mentioned, check your PO4 level in both your tank and source water. If yo udo not identify and eliminate the source it will just keep causing you trouble.

I am a big fan of reef-ready tanks. Check out AGA or Oceanic websites for more info on them.

 

[roka64]

check your PO4 level in both your tank and source water. If yo udo not identify and eliminate the source it will just keep causing you trouble.

Even in your new tank!

 

[Clown Monarch]

check your PO4 level in both your tank and source water. If yo udo not identify and eliminate the source it will just keep causing you trouble.

Even in your new tank!

Right now I'm cutting off flake foods completely. I'm gonna order the phospahte test also. I put a 2400 gph return pump in the tank itself yesterday. It looks like a blizzard of algae in there right now.

 

[melosu58]

It will pretty much be what my wet/dry is now - a box with 100 micron filtration coming in, moving through live rock pieces - and back into the tank. There's nothing to become a nitrate factory.

Ok I missed that sorry. Yes that is perfect. I just for some reason thought you had the filter media. That is an excellent idea putting LR in there. Again sorry about the mix up