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Old 02-10-2006, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasno999
I use RO water and I thought that was supposed to remove all po4??
tecwzrd - If you say the RO system does not do that then how the heck can you every truly get rid of po4?
po4 comes mostly from tap/well water which goes through your ro membrane and usually right into your tank as well. ro typically removes very little if any po4 from the water. Only ro\di will remove it completely.

The food you feed also contains po4 sometimes and quite often even with a po4 test you will get a 0 result on the main tank because the algae is absorbing it all. That’s why I recommended testing the water out of your ro unit (and tap) as a potential for po4 source. Then drop a small amount of food in 1 gal of your water and let sit overnight and then test that water as well for po4 to see if your food contains any po4.

As far as removal of high levels of po4 doing pwc with po4 free water is the easiest way. I also have used PhosGuard to lower it.
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Old 02-10-2006, 05:00 PM   #12
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I recommend changing PC bulbs out after 9 months. The color specitrum on them will really shift toward the red range and thats a strong algae growing side of the spectirum.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:18 PM   #13
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Fishfreek - I have 50/50 lights and I am goign to keep them running until they die cause they are 45 bucks to change.

tecwzrd - I am not sure but I have a question. THe RO system that I purchased has a 3 canister setup with the TFC membrane at the top. One canister is 1 micron filtration, next is carbon, then it goes to the TFC membrane and then to a deionixation canister before exiting the system.

They still call it a RO water system and not an RO/DI system. So I am nto sure what it is? IT is a coralife product.

I was goign to get he phosphate kits but would like to save my cash if you think I am good with the RO system that I have.
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Old 02-11-2006, 09:16 PM   #14
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I appricate your frugalness on the bulbs but I am telling you that your going to only increase your algae problems by continueing to run a PC bulb that is older than 9 months. As the bulbs age their specitrum output shifts from mostly blue output to mostly red spectirum output. now that does not mean the light looks red. It will most than likly look more yellow than blue but it wont look red. The algae in your tank will favor the red light specitrum that the older bulbs produce. In addition to the specitrum shift the lux output of the bulbs will drop with age. Our eyes are not as sensitive to this drop over time because its not a sudden drop its a gradual one that we really never pickup on until we change the bulb and light up the new bulb and you will be amazed at the output difference. The corals you have may be doing ok under the curret bulb with its age but as the bulb continues to age your corals will find they are not getting enough light and will suffer aswell.

If your serous about getting rid of this algae you must know if there is a phosphate issue in your tank and the only way of knowing this is to test for it. Now your lfs may do phosphate tests for you but its not very convient since you really need to test your tap water for phosphates, your clean RO water right as it exists the filter, your clean ro water thats sit in what ever storage vessle your using, your ro water after you have put some of the food you feed in it for a period of time.

This will help you narrow down where the phosphates if they exist are comming from. While its possible your ro water is clean of phosphates if your food introduces phosphates than any left over food in the tank will add phosphates to the water and they will build over time.
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Old 02-11-2006, 10:01 PM   #15
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If you find its too much couldnt you just raise it ?
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Old 02-12-2006, 01:57 PM   #16
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Listen to fishfreek on the PC bulb replacement. I started changing them every 6-7 months due to otherwise unexplained algae outbreaks. Changed the bulbs, goodby algae.
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Old 02-12-2006, 08:15 PM   #17
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I went with 28/32 watt PC bulbs when I did the 10 gal setup. A lot cheaper than the 96 watt bulbs but you do have to have more of them

You can get a 2x32 watt ballast at HD for $8. I think you need to decide what you want to keep. Might be a cheaper light source for the corals you want if you don't want to buy replacement bulbs. I know when I replaced my 75 gal ligh setup it cost almost $200. These were not the expensive bulbs either

I agree on the RO/DI. When my DI resin was exhausted, I noticed an increase in alqae.

Good Luck.
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Old 02-14-2006, 08:46 AM   #18
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My RO system with DI canister is brand new so the resin is fine.

I am thinking about tryign to get my extra 1 bulb 10gallon balast and floursent lamp up and running on the 10 gallon tank. I can then have that run for 8 hours or so and then run the 96W for like 2-4 hours a day.

I am not sure how I would get it all set up and working but I will think abotu it.
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