Is this a workable sump/fuge plan?

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blorkiemom

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Jul 1, 2004
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Sacramento, CA
Okay . . . I've been struggling with a sump/fuge design for several weeks, and here's what I finally have come up with. Please note that I know absolutely zip about plumbing so that part is very vague. (Husband is in charge of implementation.)

75G twin overflow tank
20L sump/fuge
Mag 9.5 return pump
Euroreef ES5-3 skimmer

A few notes about the design:

The fuge wall is slanted to reduce noise (swiped that from somebody smart on here; can't remember who)

The return splits off to the fuge with some kind of valve so it will get a slow flow.

The return also splits back into the return chamber (with another asjustable valve) just in case it needs to be slowed down even more to balance with overflow intake

I've got about 5 gallons free in skimmer and return areas for emergencies

The fuge will be 5-7 gallons or so. I'd like bigger but I think that will have to do.

Is this gonna work? What have I messed up or overlooked?

Thank you so much for any suggestions!
 
sounds good. Consider a SCWD for your return flow. I t will distribute an even flow through both sides.
 
I agree it looks good. I also second quarry and use the SCWD for your return. I did it a while ago and it the best thing. You can vary and change your flow and change the direction so you don't have the constant flow on one spot all the time.
 
Thank you for the comments--maybe I don't have too much more thinking to do about this after all and I can just hand the diagram to hubby. One thing . . . um . . . blush . . . SCWD? (Did I mention I don't know anything about plumbing?) :)
 
It's so simple, you can buy one at any local fish store. What you need to know if that the opening are 3/4"inch so the tubing needed is the same. Also, it also has a maximum amount of GPH allowed in order to work well, so make sure you don't exceed it. That's all. I am going to get one soon.
 
one comment. Check the distance from the return pump, to the top of your display tank. This is called the "head height". The higher the pump has to pump water, the less flow you'll actualy get out of it.

Here's a chart that will show you how much the head height will affect the amount of flow you'll actually have, http://www.living-learning.com/faq/magspecs.htm

Other than that, plan looks good! One question, what was the intention of the two pipes with the "valve thingies" on your return plumbing?
 
I do understand the head height concept, though not the execution. Thanks for the link.

The "valve thingies" (what, don't like my technical terms?) are because, as I understand it, my return can't exceed my intake, lest I run the sump dry. From what I've read the mega-overflows don't always live up to their specs (650 GPHish, I think), so my 9.5 might push too much water (depending on the head height). I don't want to just check the pump as that will shorten its life. Sooo . . . the flow to the fuge will slow the return some, but since I want a slow flow through there it might not be enough--hence the extra return back into the sump with a valve. Man, that took a lot of words. Does that make sense?
 
One problem

OK, I'm a newbie and never built a sump, but I've been reading up on them and I think I've spotted a problem....

the water coming out of the "Valve thingy" back into the sump will have some bubbles in it, which I take to be a bad thing.. if you move this hose over to the left side of the baffles, it would trap them though.
 
A scwd is a switching current wave d something. It will take the 1 return line and split it to two outlets. It also alternates between each of the outlets creating a more random flow. A scwd also reduces flow somewhat. Which would add to your head height. It depends on the diameter of the bulkhead used for the overflow. A 1" bulkhead will allow 700 gph. a 1 1/2 " bulkhead will allow 1200 gph. If you use the mag 9.5 assuming a head height of 5 feet, with a scwd; you may not need to add a sepperate line back to the sump. I hope I didn't confuse you more :?
 
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