It's coming....Metal Halides Fixture Question about Corals

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I'm sure it's a great system and it'll keep everything healthy; just may be slow growth - nothing wrong with that.

You just have to realize that different kelvin ratings have different properties; which is why there as so many choices. When you choose one end of the range over another you are making a sacrife either on color or growth potential - that's just the way it is. If that suites your needs, then it's perfect! If not, you can always consider supplementation, or compromise with a kelvin rating somewhere in the middle.
 
Thanks for clearing it up but my understanding was the 20K gives a more blue so it acts like the PC with the Blue/White bulbs but greater intensity. Thanks
 
Yes and no. It's greater intensity than pc's for the actinic blue, but less intensity in the lower kelvin range than say 10k lamps. It really is a give and take and a lot of it has to do with personal preference and what your actual lighting needs are.

Like I said, it looks like a great system. I was glad to see the ballasts are external too. The ones with the ballasts in the hood make me a little nervous - too close to the heat for my tast.
 
Tomorrow is the day for the MH fixture I can't wait and will use the Egg crate and Window screen method to lower the light intensity. how many hours should I start the lights for? Is there a correct way to start up the MH I just don't want to mess anything up. Thanks
 
With this method how should I also do the photo method by reducing the light? Should I keep lights on for 2 hrs in morning and 2 hours in evening then increase by half and hour per day? in the morning?? Or should I just do the screen method? Thanks
 
If you are using the screen, run a normal photo period. You change the intensity by removing the layers of screen. You would remove a screen every week or so. Can't say for sure since I have never done it myself.

I have done the reduced photo time and you add time during the week but you don't use screen material.
 
How big is your tank again? Let me know what you think of the new fixture. This is a new one for coralife. I would not move your crocea clams to the substrate, they are rock dwellers and attatch to rocks. Moving them once attatched can damage the clam and lead to infection, parasitic infestation and death. Photoacclimate as mentioned. I think the 20K will look just fine. Post pics when you get a chance.
 
10-12 hours while I do the screen method correct? I was just curious I don't wanna harm anything. Thanks
 
Watch for obvious signs of stress or discomfort and keep a keen eye on your temperatures. If problems appear be prepared to switch back to your old lights (or in the case of stress or bleaching add more screen). You're going to have to "gut feel" it from here. Good luck!
 
Wow I found alot of info on this site but I keep getting confused b/c everyone has a different idea. Now that I just recieved my light it states not to place it over open water. I am going to use the legs but use egg crate now I guess I need to keep the glass canopy? They told me temperature keep at 78 and it will prob raise to 80 tops. I dunno where to start. I wwill do the screen method with 8 sheets of screen I will try to make it look like my PC lighting then in 3-4 days take one screen away etc. I will keep the lights on for 10hrs. daily.
 
Sorry to highjack but...Regular window screening? You cover the entire tank? That works well? Cuz all I have is softies and I getting 3 250w for a 210 in september, kinda scared of losing something. Looking for the best way to acclimate also. Was thinking of laying everthing I have out on the sand bed too, but should they be shaded or just keep everything low?
 
Back
Top Bottom