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Old 02-24-2010, 11:20 AM   #21
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I was concerned about phosphates. I would rather just not introduce them into the tank to start with. Maybe I am wrong here, but I am just doing the "better safe than sorry" approach and trying to establish decent water perameters from the get go.

I understand that I will still go through the nitrogen cycle, thus trying to reduce nitrates right now is kind of pointless... I suppose my fear was some of the other minerals.

Anybody else have a point of view on this. I wouldn't mind just filling this thing with tap water, but I am trying to be proactive in keeping phosphates and such down.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:38 AM   #22
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Hey Ray, I agree on a tap fill and test, but I would then drain it and re-fill with RODI to start were I to do a new tank.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:44 AM   #23
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Have you tested your tap for phosphates? That may answer your question.

CMOR, if there are no phosphates in the tap, then why use the expensive water to start?
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarlilesiu View Post
at about mid-night, the python hose, which was 4 years old i remind you, burst at a kink location due to the pressure. The sound of the hose exploding under the pressure was unreal. my cat laying in bed with me and my wife freaked out, scratched her back as it ran for cover, and used my face as a spring board to jump onto the dresser. She stepped right on my eye socket just as i was waking up due to the loud sound. I think she nearly poked my eye out. the dog started barking just as the abusive cat knocked a metal cup off the dresser onto the hard wood floor resulting in more crashing.
hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:34 PM   #25
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Now THAT, is something else. That sounds like a horrible chain of events..

I know what it's like to have a cat grab on to your back and not let go.. Not very fun.. at all. Hope your eye is ok.. those aren't replaceable like the python hose ya know..
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:39 PM   #26
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Yeah, everything is fine. My eye was a bit sore yesterday, but today feels normal again.

Ok, I am still on the fence about the RO to start thing. I suppose if I was buying RO from the store, it would be really expensive to fill the tank. I bought an RO system though, so its really just the cost of the membrane and cartridges.

Ill see how the progress went today when I get home, and if its still only 1/3rd full, I may just go tap water.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:23 AM   #27
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Salt mixes (most of them anyway) are designed to be mixed with RODI water. Tap water contains a host of minerals and other stuff that is fine for humans but may upset the balance in a tank. Sure, PWCs will dilute the tap over time,, but why start with it if you have a RODI unit?
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:05 AM   #28
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Ok, RO water it is. I added 120 pounds of sand yesterday and need to get another 80 pounds. I washed the sand, but the water is still really cloudy and has some foam floating around on the top. With the displacement of the sand, the water is still only about half full.

This is taking forever. I started on Monday, but only run the RO system when I am home... next weekend, I would like to start buying live rock.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:38 PM   #29
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Alright, I have been having this concern lately regarding the sump and pump. I fear that I might have been too agressive with my pump selection. I choose the Gen-X 150 which has a flow rate of 2131 gph. I was under the understanding when ordering it that the more the better. Now, I have a couple of concerns regarding this pump.

1a. With a 1" diameter drilled overflow standpipe, is this thing going to pump faster than the tank can gravity fill the sump?

1b. Because I wanted to be able to tune down the pumps flow slightly, I included a t in the return line plumbing to allow me to divert water back into the skimmer compartment while reducing flow to the tank from the pump without putting pressure on the pump. Maybe this will solve the issue from question 1a.

2. I have been reading today that you shouldn't use all hard plumbing for the return, which of course I did. In many articles, they state that there is too much friction which causes stress to the pump which in turn causes more heat in the pump which is transfered to the tank water. Many of the articles say that if you use hard plumbing for the return, be prepared to buy a chiller.



Am I worrying about nothing here, or do I have to make some adjustments to my set up? Luckily, the RO system is still chugging along filling up the tank, so I have time to swap out this pump if I need to.

All your input is greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:35 PM   #30
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That pump is way overkill and will cause problems. You want to match a pump output to your drain. A 1Ĺ" drain straight drop can flow at 1200gph. With 2 1" returns you can match that. You do have to take head height into account, but you only have about 3 - 4 feet max.

You migiht try building a closed loop system that you could T into the pump return thereby saving the cost of buying power heads.

I don't beleive the pipe runs are long enough to build up enough friction to heat the water much if at all, but I'm not an engineer.

I normally run my RODI overnight when I'm filling my Top Off tank. There are days I have started it before work and left it running all day too. I don't plug in the booster pump on those days so my output is less than half of the rated 150gpd.
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