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Old 09-10-2003, 10:55 AM   #11
steve-s
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Well so much for the "too bright" theory . You are actually at the other end of the scale. 90w of NO light on a 50 gal tank might barely cut it for a toadstool but your devils hand is not going to fair well. If they where doing well previous to the sand disaster, then I would still think that would have much do do with that coupled with the NH3 reading.

Do the water changes and get the ammonia down and see how it goes. I wuld also suggest elevating the corals as high as the rock permits. I would not really suggest a kalk drip at this point. Water chages will help bring your levels back into line providing the salt mix is up to par. Kalkwasser cannot be used to elevate chem only maintain it. Not having stoney corals will also mean the levels should stay fairly constant with small water changes depending on the waste producing load and the growth of coralline.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-10-2003, 08:32 PM   #12
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I moved them both up as high as possible. imoved the toadstool last night and looks a little better. I will do a water change now. I went to a frag swap in PA and told the two pwople what I have for light, and asked what I could keep. this is what I got.

Devils hand
Toadstool
yellow polyps
Gsp
Orange ric
red mushroom rock with some small xenia on it.
and one fish,... a cinomon clown

I'll keep looking on ebay for some cheap lights, but I think I will have to get new if I don't find anything soon.
I was thinking of getting a plug-n-play ballast frome hellolights.com
a 4 bulb 440w vho
and run 4 36" vho's on it. that would be alright wouldn't it? should be better than what I got now.

Question: If kaulk won't raise Cal, and IO comes out of the bucket at 350 ppm, then how would I raise it to 410 ppm?

Thanks Steve.

Tim.
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:14 PM   #13
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Ok I changed the water, and have enough left to do another change tomorow. I also directed a power head at the devilshand, because when I moved it I noticed a litil slime comming off it.
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Old 09-10-2003, 10:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
the supplements you should use are:

calcium-helps build skeleton

strontium-helps build skeleton

magnesium-helps prevent premature calcium precipitation

iodine-helps prevent damage due to excessive light exposure

buffer(alkalinity)-helps build skeleton, buffers ph.

trace element-helps facilitate enzymatic and photosythetic reactions

plankton suspension-provides nutrients that are not produced by the target organism.

vitamin-helps maintain health, color, and facilitates biological reactions
Not to be "contrary" here, but just to offer my opinion/experience.

Calcium & alk should be maintained with a reputable 2-part additive - be it kalk, B-Ionic, or a calcium reactor.

Strontium & Iodine - many recent discussions indicate that adding these as 'supplemental additives' does more harm than good.

Magnesium & general "trace elements" should be maintained with water changes.

Bottom line - add no supplements/additives that are not confirmed as deficient by a reputable /accurate test kit.

Plankton suspension/vitamins should be added very sparingly, and IMO, should be incorporated into a good feeding regimen - if possible, as part of a homemade food mix.

As far as the leathers go, I agree with Steve. These corals are notorious for regularly 'shedding'. They also don't like any detritus accumulating on them at all - you might try gently blowing it off with a turkey baster to see if any of the sand settled on it.

HTH,


JMO,
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Old 09-10-2003, 10:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ReefRaff
Devils hand
Toadstool
yellow polyps
Gsp
Orange ric
red mushroom rock with some small xenia on it.
Most of these are fine for that light amount if kept higher in the tank except the shrooms and ricordia. They may actually do okay midway or lower. The only two I would urge caution about are the devils hand and the yellow polyps. Both typically do much better in med-high lighting so do not be suprised if they do a color change on you as well.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-10-2003, 11:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
As far as the leathers go, I agree with Steve. These corals are notorious for regularly 'shedding'. They also don't like any detritus accumulating on them at all - you might try gently blowing it off with a turkey baster to see if any of the sand settled on it.
I did the water change and the toadstool has extended all his spikes, at least, until my crab started climbing all over him, but he did react to the water change.

since I only have 1 small fish I have been feeding marine flakes once every two or three days and sometimes I put in a cap full of Zoe.

BTW, whut can I use to glue rock to rock but do it underwater? is there such a thing?
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Old 09-10-2003, 11:33 PM   #17
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since I only have 1 small fish I have been feeding marine flakes once every two or three days and sometimes I put in a cap full of Zoe.
Instead of adding the Zoe directly to the water, soak the flake food in it - this way your fish will 'eat' the vitamins.

Quote:
whut can I use to glue rock to rock but do it underwater? is there such a thing?
Marine epoxy (2-part) - >Marine Depot - AquaStik< << Just an example.

HTH!
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Old 09-13-2003, 07:41 AM   #18
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Marine epoxy (2-part) - >Marine Depot - AquaStik< << Just an example.
seems to work good, thank you!
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