Making own sump

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Ok so for an overflow box how would the return sump work? Like connect the overflow box back to the sump?

For drilling where would I drill? How would that work? Idk if I should do that since everything is all settled and established already. I feel like it will be very hard since I have everything in it already
 
Not all tanks can be drilled. If the tank says "do not drill" or some such thing then it's tempered and can't be drilled. Unfortunately that us usually on the bottom I believe. Or the back glass might have it.
As for the sump, if you make it so the display tank level leaves enough room for the entire return section of the tank to be added or pumped up, the there will NOT be an overflow in the event of a siphon loss. Conversely you have to have enough extra room room the sump for a power loss. In both cases catastrophe can easily be avoided with a tiny bit of planning. Not only should that not worry you, it should never ever be an issue.

A drilled tank is always the preference, but if that is not possible or you do not want to drain your tank and put everybody in temporary lodgings, then you can certainly use a hob overflow. Many members are doing that very effectively.

Good luck
 
Not all tanks can be drilled. If the tank says "do not drill" or some such thing then it's tempered and can't be drilled. Unfortunately that us usually on the bottom I believe. Or the back glass might have it.
As for the sump, if you make it so the display tank level leaves enough room for the entire return section of the tank to be added or pumped up, the there will NOT be an overflow in the event of a siphon loss. Conversely you have to have enough extra room room the sump for a power loss. In both cases catastrophe can easily be avoided with a tiny bit of planning. Not only should that not worry you, it should never ever be an issue.

A drilled tank is always the preference, but if that is not possible or you do not want to drain your tank and put everybody in temporary lodgings, then you can certainly use a hob overflow. Many members are doing that very effectively.

Good luck

Tempered glass can be drilled just FYI.
 
I made a double PVC overflow when I added a sump to my existing tank. If either side stops flowing for any reason the other half has the capacity to keep up with my return pump. It is certainly bulkier than a regular overflow box, but I have more confidence in it's ability to restart after a power outage. Now if I can just get over the algae bloom caused by the chaetomorpha dying, and get some coralline algae growing on it the thing will blend right in.
 
The biggest reason I won't to use them is the fact that in order for the siphon to work properly then your return pump needs to match very closely. With a drilled tank they can usually handle much more water then you would ever need to drain so a flood is nearly impossible.
You can install an over sized return pump and with a ball valve at the supply side of the pump the flow can be regulated at any rate you want to match the maximum capacity of the overflow box. There are also pumps with a built in flow control. In case of a brown out the pump stops and the sump will reach its max level when the DT at minimum and in turn the overflow stops so no flooding will occur. The lifting pump is always there to provide siphon when needed. When power comes back everything will start running again. A high level control can also be added to stop pump and prevent any flooding. I have mine running for a year and never have any problem with it. I even have auto control to stop pump to sync with feeding timer. I can leave home the whole week with no worry. Although, I agree that drilling is much preferred but only if you want to start a new tank.
 
make your own iv'e used these DYI over flow for the past 13 years and have never had a problem im using 1in. pipe and run 3 of these with a mag 5 return pump iv'e plugged 2 just to test and one can keep up with pump. i dont use the caps i cut slots in the pipe it's self You dont need them that deep in the tank. mine are 8in long. you can narrow things buy cutting the flanges down on the fittings.

HOW TO: DIY Aquarium Overflow - YouTube
 
This is what mine is based off, but it has two intakes that meet outside of the tank. I sized the pipe I used according to the flow I wanted, and then made a double overflow. From time to time it will get a little noisy when a bubble gets trapped in one side or the other, but they always work themselves out within an hour or so. I can also slide a coupler over the side that isn't making noise to stop its flow. That temporarily forces all of the flow through the other side and blows any bubbles out.

I have had it stopped for hours at a time while doing maintenance, and it always starts right back up.
 
I have a generator so power outages won't be a big problem here. So I just want to get this right I'm gonna have the sump connect to the overflow box then have a return pump going back to the sump?
 
I have a generator so power outages won't be a big problem here. So I just want to get this right I'm gonna have the sump connect to the overflow box then have a return pump going back to the sump?

The overflow box is mounted on the main tank. The outlet of the overflow box goes to the sump. Then the pump at the sump returns the water to the main tank to complete the circulation. Here is the link to help you build your own sump.
Build a sump. "How To" - Michigan Reefers
 
This must be new. Every time ive ever seen tempered try to be drilled it shatters.

It's not new its just very very difficult and using the right equipment is an absolute must.
 
Go to Melevs reef.com look up sumps. Properly designed it will never flood whether hob or drilled. I run a mag7 and eshopp 800 no problem adjusting flow and easy to set water level in dt.
 
I have a generator so power outages won't be a big problem here. So I just want to get this right I'm gonna have the sump connect to the overflow box then have a return pump going back to the sump?

That's how it works. As the return pump tries to overfill your display tank the overflow box drains it back down. Part of the benefit of this layout is the display tank will always have a constant water level even with evaporation. The only place that evaporation will be evident is in the pump return section of your sump. That is the area that you will have to watch closely, so you can top off with freshwater to make up for evaporation.

The whole thing can be set up so that if the power goes out there should be enough free space in your sump to accept what water will drain down before the siphon breaks and water stops flowing.

Most people also try to set the water level in their display tank such that if the overflow gets blocked for whatever reason there is enough empty space to hold the water that is in the pump return section of their sump. In an ideal world you would have a float switch to shut off your pump before this happens, but that is an added expense that many do not go with. Just be aware that if this does happen and the pump drains the return section while you are away it will most likely burn itself out.
 
In short only professionals can be able to do it but still with risks involved.

I want to drain my 90 freshwater and re seal it as its coming on 35 years old. The. Drill the 3/8s glass with two 2 inch holes i was curious about the gl*******s.com 1500 overflow kit, and if itd be able to keep up with a 90 gallon
 
I want to drain my 90 freshwater and re seal it as its coming on 35 years old. The. Drill the 3/8s glass with two 2 inch holes i was curious about the gl*******s.com 1500 overflow kit, and if itd be able to keep up with a 90 gallon

It depends on what kind of return flow you are using from your pump. They are saying they suggest a continuous flow of 500-1000 gph with that overflow. I have around 300 gph in my 29. With a 90 gallon tank I think I would probably want to push over 1000 gph, and would go with the 3000 instead.
 
Just remember though that refugeum requires a slow flow to be effective. If your sump incorpates a fuge then your flow is limited to the size of your sump.
 
I dont want a fuge, the reason i was wondering is because the 3000 overflow is bigger and my 90 gallon is only 13 inches front to back, and that overflow box is like 3.5 inches. Maybe ill get 2 1500s
 
By over sizing your overflow and pipes too much means less water percentage flowing to pipe and in turn creating more noise that air tube to muffle it will be worthless. The 3000 gal/min is about 3 times more than your 90 gal ideal required flow.
 
So your saying that the 1500 would be good for my 90?
 
Back
Top Bottom