Mixing Instant Ocean

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I wouldn't do crushed coral... If you want a cheap alternative, you can use pool sand. I've used that before and my only complaint is that it is very fine and can have a tendency to get blown around.. Not that big of a deal though, I would use it again.
 
Use sand. You won't regret it.

Aragonite is the preferred kind. It will buffer your pH and it doesn't have silicates.
 
OK, will do. I'll start out with 80 lbs. Does Argonite come in "Live" form ? I would like to use the course grain to cut down on blowing in the circulation. Speaking of Powerheads, do you run both at the same time, or do you run them independent of each other to simulate tides, with a controller ? I have a Aqueon siphon water changer that has a clear vacuum tube to sweep the sand for fish waste & un-eaten food, while doing water changes.
 
Don't waste money on the "live" sand in a bag. It's really just wet, and it's about $10 more a bag.
 
Funnel and a length of PVC pipe. Cleanest way to add sand :). Make sure you out the rocks down before the sand though.
 
I will put about 50 gallons in the tank, and then top it off after I add rocks and then sand. I have 55 lbs. or so of Pukani rock, I don't think it will displace more than 25 gallons. What about the powerhead question: Do you run both at the same time, or do you run them independent of each other to simulate tides, with a controller ?
 
I would just put them on opposite sides and aim towards each other. Cheapest easiest way to get a nice random flow pattern.
 
Is positioning critical ? I was going to place them high, facing downward at 45 degree angles on opposite ends as well as opposite sides of the tank (75L)
 
I'd put them low and point up instead or just straight across. Pointing down may cause havoc on your sandbed.
 
we got side tracked again and I still don't know weather to run both powerheads at the same time, or do you run them independent of each other to simulate tides, with a controller ?
 
Jeff, you are making this waaaayyyyyy more complicated than it has to be or should be.
This is a new set-up, correct?
Than why waste time, $$$$, and effort on all the micro-managing bullcrap?

Set-up the tank, filtration, décor, etc the way you want in the tank, add water and let it do it's thing, simple and relatively brainless endeavor to get a new tank started.
You most certainly do not need to pre-cure dry rock outside of the tank, especially if it's a new set-up.
You really only need to cure it if it is of questionable source and strong possibility of dead organisms, BUT Hey! if you are cycling a new set-up, that can only help contribute to the initial ammonia levels.;)
Also don't worry about testing your water every day, it's a waste of test reagent. Test it once a week for the first few weeks while cycling, unless you're really bored. The only time/reason to test daily would be if you are doing a fish-in cycle.
Cycling a tank takes about 6-8 weeks, regardless of what the test numbers tell ya, and about a year before being "established".

All the science at our fingertips is nice and handy, but please don't put all this hoopla over common sense.
If you are starting a new set-up, just what the heck benefit do you think you are gaining by doing everything in separate containers and incrementally????
 
Jeff, you are making this waaaayyyyyy more complicated than it has to be or should be.
This is a new set-up, correct?
Than why waste time, $$$$, and effort on all the micro-managing bullcrap?

Set-up the tank, filtration, décor, etc the way you want in the tank, add water and let it do it's thing, simple and relatively brainless endeavor to get a new tank started.
You most certainly do not need to pre-cure dry rock outside of the tank, especially if it's a new set-up.
You really only need to cure it if it is of questionable source and strong possibility of dead organisms, BUT Hey! if you are cycling a new set-up, that can only help contribute to the initial ammonia levels.;)
Also don't worry about testing your water every day, it's a waste of test reagent. Test it once a week for the first few weeks while cycling, unless you're really bored. The only time/reason to test daily would be if you are doing a fish-in cycle.
Cycling a tank takes about 6-8 weeks, regardless of what the test numbers tell ya, and about a year before being "established".

All the science at our fingertips is nice and handy, but please don't put all this hoopla over common sense.
If you are starting a new set-up, just what the heck benefit do you think you are gaining by doing everything in separate containers and incrementally????


You cure dry rock outside of the tank incase it contains trapped phosphates. No need to start a huge algae bloom when you don't have to (high nitrate from the cycle + trapped phosphates = algae nightmare).

Op to your power head question, just point them at each other and turn them on. The korillias aren't capable of simulating the currents like your asking, you'd need a jaebo or vortech style pump for that.
 
Now I am really confused, I am a brand new rookie to the hobby, I am trying to get through the initial cycling steps etc. as I have been advised as well as learned from the 100s of youtube videos, now I am getting advice that is 180 from what I am doing. It's like anything else, once I have done it I'll have it, but first I have to get some experience. I was told I need to cure the rock separate to promote the BB growth in a dark place or container, now you're saying I'm spinning my wheels.
 
If you don't have an ammonia source your not growing any bb. Curing dry rock is more to ensure that it's "clean" before adding it to your tank. If you were doing that to cycle the tank, then yes your spinning your wheels. If your ready to cycle, and your dry rock isn't leaching phosphates into your water then put the rock in and add an ammonia source to kick start the cycle, if not then keep doing what your doing and check your phosphate levels in the holding buckets.
 
I have 1 non cooked shrimp in the 17 gallons of water (1.024) in a 32 gal new trash can. I have my own RODI system so water is not an issue, so you're saying I can cycle my tank with the rock in as long as my PH levels are in check ?
 
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