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Old 05-05-2006, 10:50 PM   #1
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Modifying HOB filter / Combating light green algea

So my 29gallon has been going strong for about three months now. I had a nice spurt of coraline algea growth.. mostly red with some purple but now I am overcome with green! This is a light green color algea that has covered live rock and now almost my entire crushed coral substrate.

Early on I added some Codium macro algea which has been sprouting different fingers left and right. Not too much help but makes a great pod playground. I am planning on picking up a phosphate remover pad tomorrow to add to my filter but I think nitrates are most likely my problem.

Nitrate tests on my liquid test kit still show undetectable but I figure this is a false result because it is being consumed so quickly.

Water changes? I make sure to do a 5 gallon change every week with synthetic Instant Ocean salt. This week I am going to try and switch to filtered natural ocean water. Any comments on this?

My real problem, I have determined, is my nitrate factory Bio-Wheel emperor filter. I have been experimenting with it to try and make it as useful as possible until I upgrade to real refugium.

I tried using my own filter floss but that turned into a mess so I am going to pick up some filter pad from the LFS that you cut out yourself and use my media chamber as a stencil. I want to use this so I don't have to run carbon 24/7. I am trying to use carbon only one week a month. I am also going to pick up some LR rubble to put in my HOB. I figure this should establish a better biological filter. I plan on picking up about a pound.

Any other suggestions on modifying my HOB? Filter pad, reef crabon one week a month, life rock rubble. If I adopt this method can I just take off my Bio-Wheel and essentially make a tiny refugium? I assume that this will make a good biological filter without the bio-wheel overkill.

My livestock at the moment is one skunk shrimp, one pink tip BTA, some ricordia, a rock anemone, a midas bleeny and small tomato clown.


Thanks for all the suggestions.

/I am using RO/DI water for water changes and DI water for top off from the grocery store.
//130watt PC lighting
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:57 PM   #2
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could it be phosphorous? i put a phososorb pad in my HOTB and the green algea faded away.
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Old 05-06-2006, 03:20 AM   #3
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Any pics of the tank?
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:30 AM   #4
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Can you also tell me how often are you feeding?
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Old 05-06-2006, 01:44 PM   #5
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Here are a few pictures of the tank, I used my phone so I appologize for the poor quality.

The white balance on the pictures is not the best, especially with the blaring PC lights but on the close up pic I think the green I am describing is pretty much true to life.

I feed the anemones every three days with pieces of krill alternating with frozen mysis shrimp. I feed the fish mysis shrimp every other day alternating with flake food.
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Old 05-06-2006, 02:57 PM   #6
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hmm...thats exactly what the algea that took over my tank looked like. My glass was covered in it too. Hopefully someone can suggest another diagnosis.
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Old 05-06-2006, 04:22 PM   #7
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Re: Modifying HOB filter / Combating light green algea

Quote:
Originally Posted by vowelmovements
So my 29gallon has been going strong for about three months now. I had a nice spurt of coraline algea growth.. mostly red with some purple but now I am overcome with green! This is a light green color algea that has covered live rock and now almost my entire crushed coral substrate.

Early on I added some Codium macro algea which has been sprouting different fingers left and right. Not too much help but makes a great pod playground. I am planning on picking up a phosphate remover pad tomorrow <Why? Does your testing show high po4?>to add to my filter but I think nitrates are most likely my problem.

Nitrate tests on my liquid test kit still show undetectable <If they are undetectable, then they shouldn't be a problem. Get a second opinion on your trates..>but I figure this is a false result because it is being consumed so quickly.

Water changes? I make sure to do a 5 gallon change every week with synthetic Instant Ocean salt. This week I am going to try and switch to filtered natural ocean water. Any comments on this?<No experience with natural filtered whatever, but a good salt mix (IO, reef Crystals, Oceanic, etc) should be fine. Its what we all use. Use only RO/DI water unless you have tested other sources. For that matter, given your problem, is the RO/DI water testing clean??>

My real problem, I have determined, is my nitrate factory Bio-Wheel emperor filter. I have been experimenting with it to try and make it as useful as possible until I upgrade to real refugium. <Take it out..Now. Now, really, get up from reading this and go remove it. BIO wheels are not healthy to leave in a marine system because they foster way to much trash. Most folks dont replace them as they should which should be every couple weeks to a month. You have LR, let it do its job.>

I tried using my own filter floss but that turned into a mess so I am going to pick up some filter pad from the LFS that you cut out yourself and use my media chamber as a stencil. I want to use this so I don't have to run carbon 24/7. I am trying to use carbon only one week a month. I am also going to pick up some LR rubble to put in my HOB. I figure this should establish a better biological filter. I plan on picking up about a pound.<ok, your going way around the block to accomplish something simple. Trash the BIO wheel disaster and get either a good canister filter or HOB filter w/o BIO Wheel. Change the filter out every month or every couple of weeks. Most trate problems that are 'mystery' are the result of over feeding and/or filters that are in need of replacing, not cleaning. Keep the mechanical filters clean. The gac that comes in the filters wont hurt anything. As a matter a fact I run gac 24/7 in both my tanks (75G and skimmerless 29G). Used with proper flow it helps remove bad things from the tank. If you still want to buy your own carbon be sure to get quality stuff. You can get a phosban "reactor" ofr little money and a nice 606 pump to push water through it. You can use the gac in the reactor along with phosban or the like. If you get a canister filter you can use it to house your gac and/or other media. I sue a Fluval 204..Wish I had gotten the largest they offer, the 404. The cheap-o gac will only cause problems in the long run. Skip the lr in the hob, let the filter *filter* and let the lr in the tank do its part.>

Any other suggestions on modifying my HOB? Filter pad, reef crabon one week a month, life rock rubble. If I adopt this method can I just take off my Bio-Wheel and essentially make a tiny refugium? I assume that this will make a good biological filter without the bio-wheel overkill. <see above advice.>

My livestock at the moment is one skunk shrimp, one pink tip BTA, some ricordia, a rock anemone, a midas bleeny and small tomato clown.<How long has all this livestock been in this 3 month old tank?? BTAs are prone to die in such unestablished environments. I would re-think this stocking.>


Thanks for all the suggestions.

/I am using RO/DI water for water changes and DI water for top off from the grocery store. <DI water from the grocery store?...No, no, no..Lets use only RO/DI water. Test your top off water for trates and phosphates please...>
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:21 PM   #8
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I think one of your problems is feeding your anenomie too much. I never feed mine and I know plenty of people that feed once a month but every three days is too much. I would cut back IMO
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