My Water - Is It OK To Start New Tank?

[Kurt35]

Hey everyone!

As soon as I finish staining my stand I'll be setting up my new 65g tank (still trying to decide between FOWLR or Reef). I've just visited my local utilities website and downloaded the following water quality report (see attachment).
Is this water quality acceptable to start a new tank? Should I use it and attempt to adjust the parameters, or start with distilled or filtered? I'm sorry for such basic questions, but my reference books I ordered haven't arrived yet - and I want opinions from the experienced collective. Thanks for your help, and any input on the FOWLR v. Reef debate would be appreciated as well.

Kurt

 

[tlkng1]

Staining your sand? How?

As for tap water quality...the general consensus and experience of most saltwater hobbyists is that tap water tends to create problems with increased algae production, specifically hair algae. When I converted my 75 fresh to reef, I used tapwater for half the initial fill and then put down the money and filled the rest with distilled (the look on the clerk's face when I bought 36 gallons of distilled water was priceless ). After that, I used RO/DI water and mixed my own.

While I no longer have the 75, I switched to a 14 Biocube but am working on changing that one over to a 28 Nanoube,, I do have an LFS where I can pick up ready made water. Consistent tests over the last year show correct parameters and I have never had any problems with their water.

As for FOWLR or reef..that one is up to you . I went FOWLR at first but then found myself drooling, at times, over some of the corals and mushrooms and "stuff" and wanted that as well. I lasted with the more plain tank for about a year and then swapped to a full reef.

I miss my 75 but the footprint of the tank with the stand was just too big for the house I bought and the smaller tanks seems to be easier to take care of with my work requirements.

 

[SwimsWithFish]

If you don't want the initial extra "stuff" for a reef tank you can start with fowlr but have only reef safe fish then upgrade lighting and get some corals lighting is the only major difference with a reef.

 

[TLTGF]

I agree with tlkng and sleeps, I would avoid using Tap water for the specified reasons of algae production.

My recommendation would be to purchase an RO/DI unit.

Link:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

That listing ended, but they always repost. Inexpensive to purchase and will save you lots of time and money buying from the Supermarket or the LFS.

I use Instant Ocean salt that I bought a 200 gallon box for $50. You can also get 160 gallon's worth of salt in a 5 gallon bucket for about the same size.

If you do go reef, I would recommend the Reef Crystals version of IO's salt - has the good trace elements that the corals need to thrive.

As for the FOWLR vs. Reef - I started FOWLR and within (1) month there was some polyps and filter feeders growing on the rocks. Just a few, but it was enough to start watching youtube vids of reefs, and I was hooked. Now I'm full reef and loving it!

For me, having a reef takes the pressure of having so many fish and trying to find the centerpiece fish, because the focus is really on the reef itself.

Long story short - You like fish - go FOWLR, if you like looking at corals all day - go reef.

 

[tlkng1]

..the only reason I don't use my RO/DI unit is just location. The nearest hookup, unless I do a hard hookup, is in the basement and I don't fancy hauling water up a flight of stairs to get to my tanks ...it was a little more money for the LFS water or my back. With the smaller tanks I don't use nearly as much water so the cost evens out. I also don't have the storage room to keep the water.

As TLTGF said though, in the end it IS less expensive to get your own RO/DI unit and make your own water..that way you know what you have. If you go that route, you need not only the unit itself (and make sure it is RO/DI and not just RO) but a plastic tub/trashcan something liek that to put the water in along with some sort of aerator or small powerhead to keep the water in motion so it doesn't stagnate..that also helps with getting the salt mixed in.

 

[Kurt35]

Thanks for the tips. What brand/specs should I look for in the RO/DI unit?

 

[tlkng1]

It all depends on how much you want to spend Kent Marine is a good product and has many different types of units available. The units are very similar the only difference being how much water is made per day.

You want a three canister unit as base. This covers the basic water purifier, (removes chlorine and larger particles), the carbon chamber, a deionizing resin chamber and a smaller filter area (can't remember the exact term now) that further removes smaller particles..ah..particulate filter.

 

[rdnelson99]

Here is a nice portable one that does 150 gal. per day. It is priced right as well. You can save $10 if you go the 100 gal. per day unit but this is the one I bought and I have been very happy with it.

PureWaterClub.com