Need Sump Spelled Out!

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revhtree

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Apr 13, 2004
Messages
4,500
Location
Rossville. Ga
I want to put a sump under my 75g tank. The problem is that I dont know how or what to do. I have read about sumps, but I need it spelled out in detail exactly how to set one up. I know it will take you some time, but I will give out all my Kudos until there gone. :D

1. Why a Sump?

2. Difference in a sump and refugem?

3. I have a 30g, a 20g, a 10g, and a wetdry filter box that I can use, what should I use?

4. What equipment will I need?

5. Do I need a substrate and plants in it?

My tank is drilled, and I do have an over flow.

6. Explain in detail how to set it up. Pretend you are talking to a 5 grader. :wink:

Thank You so much!!!!!!! :wink: :wink:
 
1. Why a Sump?
a) More water volume, makes temp and chemistry more stable.
b) gives you an out-of-the-way place for "unsightly equipment" such as heaters, skimmers, kalk drip lines, float switches for auto-top-off etc.
c) did i mention more water volume? :wink:
2. Difference in a sump and refugem?
sump = place for equipment
fuge = place for equipment & additional sand, macro algae, LR etc for additional bio filtration/nutrient export. A lot of folks will set up a fuge and fill it with macro algae and leave the lights over the fuge on 24/7 for maximum nutrient export (keeps bad algae out of your display tank)
3. I have a 30g, a 20g, a 10g, and a wetdry filter box that I can use, what should I use?
yes. :wink: I'd go with the 30. Why, cause it's the biggest one you have. (as long as it will fit where you want to put it. Under the stand?)
4. What equipment will I need?
My tank is drilled, and I do have an over flow.
you have an overflow like a HOB overflow, or your tank has a built in overflow? You'll need tubing, and a pump that can handle pushing enough water up from the bottom of where the sump will be, to the top of your display tank (this is refered to as "Head Height") There is a great chart that lists magdrive pumps with the relative GPH/head height. its a good reference. do a google for it, should be easy to find.
5. Explain in detail how to set it up. Pretend you are talking to a 5 grader.
abbriged instructions (you'll get more details with more questions :wink: )
- Put the sump where you want it.
- Hook whatever tubing/plumbing you're going to use up to your overflow and run that to your sump.
- Set up your pump (good to use a pre-filter sponge) in the sump and run your plumbing for that back up to your tank. (you have options on how you return it, you can use a single pipe opening, a spray bar, etc. Decide that before you buy your pump. Depending on how you want to return the water may affect the strength of the pump you'll need)
- Fill the sump with new saltwater as if you were doing a water change. (including temp)
- Once the water is aged a day or so and up to temperature and matching your tanks sg, you're ready to turn your pump on NOTE I say this because you said your tank is drilled. because it's drilled you shouldn't have to set up anything that requires a syphon, so the water should simply flow through the overflow and down into your sump.

Once you're sump is up and running, you can move any equip that is in your display thank that you don't want to see anymore and put it in the sump, such as heaters, skimmers etc.

(and don't worry about the kudos... happy to help)
 
My suggestion for the container is a rubber maid. Not just because they are easy to come by and cheap, but also because you can drill them and install bulkheads in about 10 min. That really helps in keeping everything neat and undercontroll.

Rubbermaid for sump- 15.00
3 bulkheads------------24.00
overflow box-----------80.00
Return pump-----------110.00

Knowing you did it yourself....PRICELESS! :wink:
 
also ive heard that smaller cheaper tanks can leak due to the pump vibrating in it !! not sure how often this can or will happen but just a thought!! id mabe put a rubber pad or something under it to be safe :)

great explanation by the way biilz
 
Since I have a built in overflow I will not need the overflow box right?

Thanks everyone for the help, kudos to all!

Should I put a substrate and macro algae in it?

Is ther anything bad to having a sump? :wink:

What is a bulkhead?

If I decide rubbermaid, what size?
 
A bulkhead is basicly a wall. A bulkhead fitting is used to allow pipe or tubing to pass thru the wall. Drill a hole in the wall, install the bulkhead fitting and plum from there.
 
You won't need an overflow box if you have one built in.

Here is a pic of a bulk head. it allows you to connect your plumbing to the tank and sump.
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_plumbing_parts_fittings_2.asp#bh

the only minor bad thins about a sump is (some noise) and a small chance that you can flood if your don't take the proper precautions. i.e not putting a check valve on your return. but if there is enough room in your sump for return water you should be fine.

as for the rubber maid I would say as big as you can get. I know people that use 100 gal. but if you are going under the tank I would look for somthing to just hold all of your stuff and still give you room for upgrades i.e fuge.

That's my problem right no; my sump is too big and I have no room for a fuge.
but my sump made a huge difference in my tank.
 
CBRGuy, could you place a smaller tank inside your sump and use it as a fuge? ie: a ten gallon tank inside a rubbermade tub. Use a powerhead to pump water into the tank and just let it overflow however it wants...
Just an idea
 
Great article, I'll read it more in a sec.

Say I want to use my wetdry filter for the sump. Would I need to drill a hole in the side, or could the pipe that comes from the overflow just hang inside the sump?

Then I would have the other plumbing attached to a pump underwater that would push it back into the tank, right?
 
i wouldnt use a check valveand count on it at all !! the best way is to run the system so your pump dont suck air !! then turn off the pump wait a few min then add water to the sump to where ever ya want with out overflowing it !
then start the pump and run it for a few min and then mark a line were the water level is and keep the water at this line or below it,will keep it from never overflowing :)
 
to be perfect about it your always better to have your fuge above your main tank !!
but you could have you overflows drain into your fuge say the 30 gallon then you would have to have it drilled for a bulkhead or buy another overflow but it then would drain into your cpr sump via the same way it would if it was hooked to your overflows then yes the pump pumps back to the main tank !
 
Scuba's on the ball... check valves are too easily faulted in an aquarium system unless you pay big bucks for an industrial one. As scuba said once your sump is all set up and connected, get it filled with water. At this point your plumbing lines will be empty. Turn the pump on and allow it to run for a few minutes to work out as much air form the return and overflow lines as you can, then turn it off. THe water in the return line will fall back into your sump and the little bit of water in the overflow line will fall down into the sump as well. check the level of water in your sump and add some if you feel it necessary. And mark it and use it as Scuba explained.

One additional note, on your return line to the tank, drill a small, 1/8", hole in that pipe inside the tank, just below the water level. This way, when you shut the pump off, your return line won't siphon water out of your tank. (big bad messy wetness all over your floor)
 
bound_for_obx said:
CBRGuy, could you place a smaller tank inside your sump and use it as a fuge? ie: a ten gallon tank inside a rubbermade tub. Use a powerhead to pump water into the tank and just let it overflow however it wants...
Just an idea

Hey that's not a bad Idea thanks.. duh why didn't I think of that!. I have some room on the return side :) I can just sit it on the edges. Now I am off to target to find a small rubermaid container.
 
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

Everything you need to know is at that link. Enjoy!

Oh, and as far as my input on check valves go, there is a clear one sold at marine depot that is awesome. Both ends cement to you plumbing, but the center section has threads at the top and bottom and can be unattached from the plumbing for cleaning or all out replacement. The best part is that you can see into the clear valve and you'll know when its time to clean it. Anyhow, just thought I would mention that, as until this product I condemed the use of them myself.
 
Ha...ha..that reminds me of the Apollo 13 story where they had to make a C02 stripper from duct tape and stuff they found around the spacecraft....

The foam blocks could be useful, if you could direct the water to flow through them in the sump..and you might make use of some of the PVC pipe bits on the return pipe....looks like you've got a return nozzle that would go in the main tank to deliver the water back into the tank.

Other than that...you've got a lot of sump'tin that adds up to not'tin.
 
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