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Old 02-16-2011, 10:21 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_X View Post
you don't want the bio ball set up. it's going to eventually work against you.
Is this because of anything related to the nitrates? I just recently read something on that. I just purchased and successfully set up a wet/dry sump for my 40g breeder that cycled about two weeks ago. It's running fine but the water level in the sump isn’t near high enough for me to insert a heater...I did a lot of research but I'm finding I'm running into a couple small issues. I'll post photos after I get off work, perhaps if the bioballs are not a good thing I could take them out and have the water level high enough in that section to insert a heater. I bought the sump at the LFS, it's basic but it works. Has a compartment with a filter pad, then bioballs, egg crate, going into the second section for the return pump.

Also, I'm still running my power filter. I know there are beneficial bacteria inside the filter media so I didn't want to just remove it. Could I take the filter pad from there and put it near/on the filter pad in the sump? I'm just trying to free some room up to make the display tank not have a bunch of extra stuff in it.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlwn88 View Post
Is this because of anything related to the nitrates? I just recently read something on that. I just purchased and successfully set up a wet/dry sump for my 40g breeder that cycled about two weeks ago. It's running fine but the water level in the sump isnít near high enough for me to insert a heater...I did a lot of research but I'm finding I'm running into a couple small issues. I'll post photos after I get off work, perhaps if the bioballs are not a good thing I could take them out and have the water level high enough in that section to insert a heater. I bought the sump at the LFS, it's basic but it works. Has a compartment with a filter pad, then bioballs, egg crate, going into the second section for the return pump.

Also, I'm still running my power filter. I know there are beneficial bacteria inside the filter media so I didn't want to just remove it. Could I take the filter pad from there and put it near/on the filter pad in the sump? I'm just trying to free some room up to make the display tank not have a bunch of extra stuff in it.
yes. it's because the bio balls don't finish the job.

i copied this-
I assume you are using some sort of 'wet/dry' system and thats where your bio balls are. Water from your tank is sprayed or trickles over them creating a high oxygen enviroment This creates almost ideal living conditions for certain bacteria that break down amonia/amonium to nitrite. These same conditions are good for another set of bacteria that utilize nitrite and leave nitrate as waste. These 'trickle filters 'are very effecient for this part of the 'nitrogen cycle' . These filters are not however good for the final step in the 'cycle' which is to convert nitrate to nitrogen gas. This requires another set of bacteria that do not thrive in the oxygen rich enviroment of your trickle filter. Thus the water coming from these filters are high in nitrate.

not to mention that bio balls have a lot less surface area than live rock does.
i would remove the bio balls and use live rock in there. do you have live rock in the display? if so, you don't need the bacteria that is on the filter media.


Quote:
Originally Posted by underthesealover View Post
So what should I be buying to start it running then??? overhead? sump? filter? I will really buy a nice light for it coz I really want those nice stuff on my tank to keep them alive and healthy. I saw something on ebay that I posted a link, its pretty cheap and its a combination of little refugium/protein skimmer just not sure if its right for me? here is the link for that HOB refugium/skimmer

Refugium Protein Skimmer Filter Combo Coral Reef 55g - eBay (item 110646412186 end time Mar-09-11 17:29:22 PST)

na..you don't want that. if you want to buy a HOb refugium, do so. there are some decent ones out there, but get a good protein skimmer. that one is about worthless.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:18 AM   #33
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yes. it's because the bio balls don't finish the job.

i copied this-
I assume you are using some sort of 'wet/dry' system and thats where your bio balls are. Water from your tank is sprayed or trickles over them creating a high oxygen enviroment This creates almost ideal living conditions for certain bacteria that break down amonia/amonium to nitrite. These same conditions are good for another set of bacteria that utilize nitrite and leave nitrate as waste. These 'trickle filters 'are very effecient for this part of the 'nitrogen cycle' . These filters are not however good for the final step in the 'cycle' which is to convert nitrate to nitrogen gas. This requires another set of bacteria that do not thrive in the oxygen rich enviroment of your trickle filter. Thus the water coming from these filters are high in nitrate.

not to mention that bio balls have a lot less surface area than live rock does.
i would remove the bio balls and use live rock in there. do you have live rock in the display? if so, you don't need the bacteria that is on the filter media.
I'm fairly new as far as how wet/dry and sumps work, I only know the basics....below is a photo of almost exactly what I have, will the water level remain high enough to support a live rock if I take the bio balls out? Why is this method so popular then if the nitrates are an issue. I've seen a lot of LFS's use this too. I read you can keep the nitrates down if you rinse the bio balls properly once in a while, not sure if that' true though.

I already have live rock in my display so since your advice hasn't ever failed me I'll go ahead and remove the power filter sometime later on.

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Old 02-17-2011, 01:53 AM   #34
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Mr_X you forgot about me I think. huhuhu lol. Anyway, Please I need your gracious advice to help me through this I set up my mind to a 55 gal tank and I can go for a HOB refigium and protein skimmer combo that i have seen on email, I posted the link the other day just waiting for your answer on how do you think of it? Let me know and thanks!!!
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:50 AM   #35
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if you look at two posts up #32 he answers your question at the bottom.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:50 AM   #36
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:17 AM   #37
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Dlwn88- those are best used for fresh water and fish only tanks. i haven't seen too many LFS's that have super efficient systems. that fish place/that pet place, which boasts "the largest pet store in the world" actually uses giant bins of bio balls and fluidized bed filters for filtration, along with a giant skimmer of course.
what i would do with that wet dry is remove the eggcrate under the bio balls (and the bio balls) and try to glue in an 8-10" partition or two between that area and the return pump. then fill the old bio ball section up with your protein skimmer, and call it a day.

underthesealover- i do not like that protein skimmer refugium combo thing you posted. i think it's a waste of money. get a good quality protein skimmer.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:39 AM   #38
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Ok, so what will I need is a protein skimmer, like 2 over heads? heater, proper lightings of course and live rocks. probably like 70 pounds of them? what else am I forgetting?? pumps?
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:40 AM   #39
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errr pump lol
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:48 AM   #40
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Koralia Hydor Evolution Circulation Pumps at least 2 (each side of tank)
www.petmountain.com/brands/207/1/koralia.html

Reef Octopus BH 1000 Hang
on Back Protein Skimmer
by CoralVue:
www.aquacave.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=632

or if you have doing a sump then:
Reef Octopus NWB 110
Needle Wheel Protein
Skimmer PS-OCT-NWB-110
www.aquacave.com/reef-octopus-nwb-110-br-needle-wheel-protein-br-skimmer-750.html
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