New 40 Gallon Setup and Transfer

[Bdonaldson]

I am going to need the 90° pvc elbows instead of using the 45° elbows for bringing the pipe down into the sump. The 45° elbows are just not allowing me to line the pvc pipe up with my filter sock. Ugh!

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[Bdonaldson]

I did get my overflow box glued in the tank over the weekend and I cut all of my pvc and dry fitted all the pieces.

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[Ziggy953]

I did get my overflow box glued in the tank over the weekend and I cut all of my pvc and dry fitted all the pieces.

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Progress!!

 

[paul87]

Progress!!

Yes indeed!

 

[Bdonaldson]

Ok I received my grey 90 degree elbows so now I can get this tank running this weekend. Nothing else to hold me up now. I do have one questions about the shut off valve. Does it matter where you put the shut off valve?

 

[paul87]

Ok I received my grey 90 degree elbows so now I can get this tank running this weekend. Nothing else to hold me up now. I do have one questions about the shut off valve. Does it matter where you put the shut off valve?

Anywhere on the lowest drain (to sump) line. I would prefer higher up to reach it easier without needed to bend over. Also, is it a ball valve or gate valve that you got?

 

[Bdonaldson]

Anywhere on the lowest drain (to sump) line. I would prefer higher up to reach it easier without needed to bend over. Also, is it a ball valve or gate valve that you got?

Its a heavy duty gate valve. It looks exactly like yours. I ended up putting it under the cabinet so it wouldn't be seen from the back of the tank. I plan on putting the check valve under the cabinet as well. I have all the PVC done except for adding in the check valve. I will take pictures when I am done.

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[paul87]

Its a heavy duty gate valve. It looks exactly like yours. I ended up putting it under the cabinet so it wouldn't be seen from the back of the tank. I plan on putting the check valve under the cabinet as well. I have all the PVC done except for adding in the check valve. I will take pictures when I am done.

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Very cool.

 

[jeffaquarius]

The gate vale at the drain is not necessary if your sump can hold the volume of water when the pump stops. If not, you will have flooding during a brown out.

 

[Bdonaldson]

The gate vale at the drain is not necessary if your sump can hold the volume of water when the pump stops. If not, you will have flooding during a brown out.

Thanks Jeff.
I'm sure the sump can handle the water from the overflow. I'm not filling the sump all the way up. I just wanted extra security and I am using the Herbie method and that calls for a valve to be on there.

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[Bdonaldson]

Lockline

Hey Paul how did you attache the lockline return to your bulkhead?

 

[paul87]

Hey Paul how did you attache the lockline return to your bulkhead?

My bulkhead was threaded on the inside. I just screwed it in. If yours isn't threaded you could get a pvc coupling that slips in and coverts to threads. Not sure if they make a slip in lockline or not but you could check that out maybe as well.

 

[paul87]

The gate vale at the drain is not necessary if your sump can hold the volume of water when the pump stops. If not, you will have flooding during a brown out.

The only purpose of the gate valve only on the main drain is to adjust the water level in the overflow box. It is a necessity on the 'herbie method' to make a silent and fail-proof system. It serves no purpose for keeping water from draining into the sump. The George Fischer Y-check takes care of that, even though the sump should hold the remaining water from the return line if the water was to shut off and the Y-check was to fail. I have never known a Fischer Y-check to fail though I'm sure its possible.

 

[jeffaquarius]

If the purpose is to have a silent overflow, the only thing you need is bore a hole on top of the strainer and insert a rigid plastic tubing about 8" long. It acts as a breather and let the air pass through. Flooding can be prevented by an ATO controlling the return pump and with non-mechanical sensor at the display tank.

 

[paul87]

If the purpose is to have a silent overflow, the only thing you need is bore a hole on top of the strainer and insert a rigid plastic tubing about 8" long. It acts as a breather and let the air pass through. Flooding can be prevented by an ATO controlling the return pump and with non-mechanical sensor at the main tank.

Yes there are several methods however the 'herbie method' incorporates a full syphon with absolutely no air in the line whatsoever with a secondary or emergency drain in the main gets obstructed by anything. Very great setup. I've use it on my current tank and will being doing the same when I upgrade.

 

[Bdonaldson]

My bulkhead was threaded on the inside. I just screwed it in. If yours isn't threaded you could get a pvc coupling that slips in and coverts to threads. Not sure if they make a slip in lockline or not but you could check that out maybe as well.

OK thanks I will check on that.

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[Bdonaldson]

Ordered the pieces I need to get my return loc line connected to my bulk head. I will start mixing my rodi water and salt tomorrow night so it will be ready to go in the tank when I am done. I will test the tank for leaks as soon as I get my loc line in place.

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[paul87]

Ordered the pieces I need to get my return loc line connected to my bulk head. I will start mixing my rodi water and salt tomorrow night so it will be ready to go in the tank when I am done. I will test the tank for leaks as soon as I get my loc line in place.

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Bet you cant wait to get this thing wet!

 

[Bdonaldson]

You know it. Lol. I am hoping my pieces come in today.

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[Bdonaldson]

The parts came in so now I can connect my loc line to the bulk head. I will do that when I get home today. Looks like I will get to fill my tank this weekend. So excited!

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