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Old 02-04-2006, 02:02 PM   #21
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If you aim one of the power heads along the surface, you'll get plenty of air exchange without the bubbles. If you have live rock, you want to avoid bubbles, as bubbles trapped in a live sponge will kill it.
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Old 02-04-2006, 06:55 PM   #22
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How much surface breakage do you want?

Thanks,

-TheChad
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Old 02-05-2006, 01:33 PM   #23
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A gentle ripple is all that’s needed. You don’t want it splashing everywhere.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:09 AM   #24
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Hey guys,

A few more questions for you guys...

1. How long do the PC bulb's last? Is it worth having extra's laying around?

2. Do you guys use the pre-filter sponge on your powerheads?

3. How far above the DSB should the intake tube for the canister filter be? The tube is too long, and I am going to need to cut it to length.


P.S. tecwzrd that light on ebay isn't a coralife... So the cheapest I could find was the websight you origionally posted for $195.

Thanks,

-TheChad
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad
1. How long do the PC bulb's last? Is it worth having extra's laying around?
9-12 months depending on daily usage. It’s a good idea to have extras, especially if you have corals. They could last as long as 2 years though so if you don’t have corals and they are just used to light your tank then replacing them when they go out is fine IMO.

Quote:
2. Do you guys use the pre-filter sponge on your powerheads?
I don’t because I don’t like to clean them but I do use plastic guards to prevent fish/inverts from getting sucked up. If you can’t find one to fit your ph then I would use the sponge.

Quote:
3. How far above the DSB should the intake tube for the canister filter be? The tube is too long, and I am going to need to cut it to length.
I’d recommend around 3” from the sand just incase you get sand stirring fish/inverts.


Quote:
P.S. tecwzrd that light on ebay isn't a coralife... So the cheapest I could find was the websight you origionally posted for $195.
Sorry, it looked just like the Coralife ones I should have realized it was too good to be true. I had to pay $200 also for Coralife. It really doesn’t state which brand it is. You might want to ask the seller just to make sure.
Ebay version


Coralife
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:14 AM   #26
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1. PC bulbs will start to change spectrum long before they actually burn out. It's generally a good idea to come up with a schedule for bulb change-outs.
2. There are differing opinions on sponge pre-filters. If you're going to clean them very regularly they can lengthen the life of the pump by keeping debris out of the workings. If you let them stay dirty, they will create lots of nitrates in the tank. The other major consideration is if you have any delicate tank inhabitants, like nudibarchs, sponge prefilters will protect them from getting sucked into the powerhead. Most people run without the prefilters.
3. I'd think as long as you're not sucking up sand or air, you should be fine. There are benifits to getting the water close to the surface, but evaporation can make that a difficult position to go with.
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Old 02-06-2006, 06:47 PM   #27
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[quote="tecwzrd"]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad
Quote:
P.S. tecwzrd that light on ebay isn't a coralife... So the cheapest I could find was the websight you origionally posted for $195.
Sorry, it looked just like the Coralife ones I should have realized it was too good to be true. I had to pay $200 also for Coralife. It really doesn’t state which brand it is. You might want to ask the seller just to make sure.
Ebay version


Coralife
I Just got a reply from the seller... "Unit is made in the united states by workhorse - 5 year warranty."

One of the sellers feedback's for this light said "Light is cheap..."

I'm willing to bet that picture is of a coralife, either that or the knockoff brand coppied coralife's design..

-TheChad
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:03 PM   #28
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Thanks guys for answering all my questions...

Each day after reading threw webpages I continue to get more questions in my head.


1. Are there any better, cheaper, or different options for PC or MH lighting when using a canopy on top of the tank?

2. With 40lbs of Non-Live sand (On Bottom), and 40lbs of Live sand (On Top), Do I still do the Cocktail Shrimp cycle methoid, or does the Live sand cycle the tank?

3. Is the Methoid Here, Correct for the "Cocktail Shrimo Cycling Methoid"?

I think that's all I got for now.

Thanks again,

-TheChad
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad
1. Are there any better, cheaper, or different options for PC or MH lighting when using a canopy on top of the tank?
You could DIY it. For PC I'd suggest an Ice Cap ballast and end caps. I'm not clear enough on MH to suggest anything but a retrofit kit. My lighting isn't the best yet, but it didn't take too much effort to build my plywood hood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad

2. With 40lbs of Non-Live sand (On Bottom), and 40lbs of Live sand (On Top), Do I still do the Cocktail Shrimp cycle methoid, or does the Live sand cycle the tank?
The live sand provides the bacteria, the shrimp provides the food. Dead matter on live rock can also provide the food. If you want to try going without the shrimp, monitor your ammonia levels. If ammonia never goes up, you need a shrimp or other ammonia source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheChad

3. Is the Methoid Here, Correct for the "Cocktail Shrimo Cycling Methoid"?
Yes, that is a valid variant of the method. The exact number of shrimp, and what pieces of equiptment to turn on when varies by who you ask.
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:10 PM   #30
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Is there any bennifit to a PC 4x65w, vs a T5 HO 4x54w, other than 44w of power?

The T5 HO fixtures seam to be about the same price as the 4x65 PC unit's but If I understand it correctly the bulbs are alot cheaper, last longer, and the fixtures put off far less heat.

Thanks,

-TheChad
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