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Old 08-01-2004, 11:35 AM   #11
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I guess it is always a balancing game when adding new fish. How valuable is keeping the new fish stress-free to you compared to the value of your existing occupants?

I need to couch my remark about not qting with a comment that I tend not to introduce ANYTHING new to my tank once it is up and running well and I am happy with what I have. I let years of attrition take its toll on my tank and when the population is so low that I have nothing good that would be sacrificed, I start over adding directly to the main tank. I am not a tinkerer. I am not constantly changing my tank occupants and moving them. Once I get the tank geared up and am happy with it, I don't change it, and my fish tend to live for years. If I lose a fish...I don't replace it, until so many other fish have also died that I need to start over...So..I am not the best one to advice about qt since I never use it. This method of aquarium-keeping I actually adopted after I crashed a beautiful tank with ich brought in by a tiny queen angel, I just had to have I did not qt her, and she brought down a tank with 500 dollars of beautiful perfect fish...So...I would definitely recommend qt in this situation when you have a perfect tank with lots of great fish, but I don't fall into this situation anymore cuz I don't add fish to established tanks after this disaster in 1994.

I still hold with my initial statement that qt in itself is always stressful....and a risk in itself. Many a nice fish, have not survived the qt. It just depends I suppose on how much you have to lose in your main tank. And..there are other diseases besides ich which new fish can certainly bring into your tank if you don't qt so not qting does put your main tank at risk.
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Old 08-01-2004, 11:43 AM   #12
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One final comment on qt and ich. I am not convinced, after years of fishkeeping, that ich can be obliterated completely with qt and treatment. I am of the opinion that ich is always present in the system, (either the fish or the water) and that it rears its ugly head when fish are stressed.(kind of like a cold sore/herpes virus in humans). I have seen fish have a bit of ich and go into qt for 6 weeks, respond well to copper and become ich free just to be moved to the maintank and break out with ich again due to the stress of the move. Most sw fish get a mild case of ich when they are stressed and moved. That is why for ich, I usually don't qt. Just ride a light case of it out with my uv sterilizer in full operation. If a fish succombs too badly and is jeapardizing the other fish, I will pull it out cuz all fish will succumb eventually I have learned if too much of it reproduces in the water.

If anyone has experience with always being able to prevent fish from breaking with ich when being relocated, I'd love to hear about it. I am fascinated and frightened about the seeming ubiquitous nature of this parasite, and am still learning about this ugly bug myself after 12 years of fishkeeping.
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Old 08-01-2004, 11:50 AM   #13
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One final comment on qt and ich. I am not convinced, after years of fishkeeping, that ich can be obliterated completely with qt and treatment. I am of the opinion that ich is always present in the system, (either the fish or the water) and that it rears its ugly head when fish are stressed.(kind of like a cold sore/herpes virus in humans). I have seen fish have a bit of ich and go into qt for 6 weeks, respond well to copper and become ich free just to be moved to the maintank and break out with ich again due to the stress of the move. Most sw fish get a mild case of ich when they are stressed and moved. That is why for ich, I usually don't qt. Just ride a light case of it out with my uv sterilizer in full operation. If a fish succombs too badly and is jeapardizing the other fish, I will pull it out cuz all fish will succumb eventually I have learned if too much of it reproduces in the water.

If anyone has experience with always being able to prevent fish from breaking with ich when being relocated, I'd love to hear about it. I am fascinated and frightened about the seeming ubiquitous nature of this parasite, and am still learning about this ugly bug myself after 12 years of fishkeeping.
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Old 08-01-2004, 12:28 PM   #14
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I have had a FO/saltwater tank up for 8 years in some capacity. My reef tank has been up almost a year. Before coming to AA.com, I never QT since I knew nothing of it. I have had dog and porcupine puffers most of my years which are prone to ich. I never had an ich outbreak. I figure I am really lucky!

I have QT'd every fish since I found AA.com but I don't have a true QT tank. My QT tank is a 29 gal that was seeded with my old substrate from my 8 yr old tank and I cycled some LR in it before I started using it. I feel safe with it but I have never had to medicate it either.

I think more people don't QT than do but just don't say it I still think it is a good idea.

That being said, I did not QT the tang. It had been at the LFS for a month and the guy there felt pretty strongly that he was healthy. A risk yes. He did eat at the LFS so that was a plus.

If I have to QT all the fish I have a 72 gal that I just set up with a seeded substrate. I will be ready.
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Old 08-01-2004, 01:04 PM   #15
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I believe in the QT method. It is less expensive to lose one fish in QT then it is to introduce parasites and disease to all of your livestock and risk losing everything. Always QT! Lando
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:36 AM   #16
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Another thought could be that the yellow tang at the LFS is probably swimming in copper mixed water too. I have sometimes thought that fish from the LFS that have been there for weeks and swimming with the corals and inverts (no copper on that side of the store) could be a safer bet to go directly into your main tank.

But... I'm a big subscriber to QTing - - all fish, regardless of which tanks they come from.
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:33 AM   #17
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IMO, failing to quarantine is about the most foolish thing that you can do.
Go to http://www.marineaquariumadvice.com/...odology_1.html to read about some methods of quarantine. This is a two part article and you can find part two in the same library.

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Old 08-03-2004, 12:10 PM   #18
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Nice article but it says to use a sponge filter or equivalent for filtration. IMO, if this is not seeded with bacteria, you will not be able to keep the ammonia down in the tank via water changes. I lost my first QT fish this way. Daily water changes and a standard HOB in a 10 gal tank. I had one fish in there and ammonia just kept rising. A larger QT might help with that though.
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Old 08-03-2004, 12:13 PM   #19
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I have the same size sponge on the PH of my display tank as I do on my QT. When I QT a fish, the sponges comes off of my PH in the display in goes on the one in QT, nicely seeded with bacteria. Doesn't do much for the nitrates in QT though.
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Old 08-03-2004, 12:21 PM   #20
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Agreed. I usually keep a filter pad in my sump. The article here on AA mentions it but the article linked aboave did not. It very much helps.

Just shows that AA is the best
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