Nitrate help...I'm about to cry!!!

[BigRedsReefs10]

Alright I took my wanted to be tested at the lfs. He said it was perfect but my salt was at dangerous levels .27 when I tested the levels it was it .22, .23. And my nitrates are still reading high, bout 80 when I came home and did the test. I'm wondering if it's my test it says it will expire in 2017. But that still doesn't explain why the salinity differ from the LFS reading I really don't know what to think at this point


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

What are you using to measure salinity?

 

[bleu]

I brought it from on of the guys who worked @ the lfs. He said he had extra sand, if I needed for cheap


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[bleu]

Instant ocean hydrometer & also the tube lookin hydrometer like the ones used in lfs. Both r reading the same


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[Mebbid]

Canister and skimmer my friend. Nutrients = nitrates. If your canister catches all those exta uneaten food what do you get?

You get low levels of increased nitrates.. say 5 to 10ppm. Not a sudden overnight jump to 80ppm. That would be the equivalent of 4 to 5 weeks of food decaying overnight.

 

[jeffaquarius]

In that case the only conclusion is incorrect test result.

 

[paulk28]

In that case the only conclusion is incorrect test result.

Not always if you stirred your sand up when cleaning you can have spikes in the tank also it can lead to new tank syndrome it's all depending


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[jeffaquarius]

Not always if you stirred your sand up when cleaning you can have spikes in the tank also it can lead to new tank syndrome it's all depending


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

The conclusion is only based on the OP's case and not in general. Even then, stirring substrate will release toxic gas instantly but not nitrates. As stated nitrates can gradually go up but not overnight .

 

[bleu]

I'm sad & about to give up on corals!!! I lost them. The open brain was my favorite. My Nitrate reading was right... Got a 2nd opinion from a different lfs testing my what. The other guy probable did the test incorrectly. But that day or so kinda made things worst. Last night did a 10g water change, nitrate test @ 20. It's getting better, but it hurt my heart to see my corals melt away!!!! :-(




Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[bleu]

Oh also I was advised to get that sand out of my sump. Stop the flow, just running my canister & will clean the sump out later


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[jeffaquarius]

Turn off sump and canister unless you replaced filter media and do large water change until nitrate is at acceptable level. Sump may contribute nitrate from new sand washed with tap water. Washed filters from muddy canister can contribute also.

 

[54seaweed]

Turn off sump and canister unless you replaced filter media and do large water change until nitrate is at acceptable level. Sump may contribute nitrate from new sand washed with tap water. Washed filters from muddy canister can contribute also.

I said basically the same thing way back in post 36
anyway I agree with jeff

 

[jeffaquarius]

I had the chance to really looked closely at the sump set up and I find it totally misconfigured. With just 2 chambers the sand and rocks should not be in there. The chamber on the right is where your skimmer should be which is feed by the overflow. The left side is just for the return pump. Not sure how you set up your canister but I would not use it anymore. May be you can use it while you are still in the process of correcting your sump.

 

[jeffaquarius]

Instead of the canister, why not create a 3rd chamber on the left to serve as your fuge with sand and macro algae? I used a transparent plastic storage box that can be easily drilled for overflow that goes to the return chamber. The overflow from DT is split between the skimmer chamber and the fuge chamber making the return pump as the middle chamber.

 

[jeffaquarius]

I had the chance to really looked closely at the sump set up and I find it totally misconfigured. With just 2 chambers the sand and rocks should not be in there. The chamber on the right is where your skimmer should be which is feed by the overflow. The left side is just for the return pump. Not sure how you set up your canister but I would not use it anymore. May be you can use it while you are still in the process of correcting your sump.

Correction: Just move the return pump to the right chamber without the sand and rocks and leave the skimmer at the left where your overflow is.

 

[bleu]

Correction: Just move the return pump to the right chamber without the sand and rocks and leave the skimmer at the left where your overflow is.

Ok...I apologize, but I am processing slowly. So, my question is being that I have very limited space in this small sump, having the return pump & skimmer in the same compartment is not okay? I ask because, I don't understand how I can put the return pump in the right compartment, due to the fact there is a covering w/ the plumbing attached. Also I have a bunch of extra new biological filter media, should I place it on the right side sump compartment?
Also is you can tell me step by step, what is the best way to configure this sump set up, I would appreciate it so much!! Thank you very much for your replies & your patience with my newbieness...don't think that's an actual word
My tank is plumbed in such a way, that the intake is drilled on the back of the tank... I find it very hard to keep my water levels the same. When I target feed my corals, I shut off all flow for about 20 to 30 minutes. I purchased the tank used form a lfs


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[jeffaquarius]

I don't see your return pump. Are you using your canister to return water from sump to display tank? Anyway, all you need to do is move the overflow hose to the left chamber where your skimmer is, while the return pump will be on the right chamber. The left chamber will now maintain a constant level when water is passing to top of right baffle plate. Your ATO level sensor will be at the right chamber. Normally the level on the right chamber should be set at half full to turn off ATO. It is to give space for water when pump is off to prevent flooding. The discharge of skimmer should be facing downward pointing to the lower outlet of baffle plate so it can flow easily to the other chamber. It makes sense to point inlet of skimmer upward to catch the water from overflow hose.

 

[bleu]

So what should I do about that square part that the hose is running into. I actually had my return pump in the same chamber as the skimmer


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[jeffaquarius]

That must be your return pump if the hose is returning water to DT. So you switch it with the overflow. Meaning move hose with pump to the right chamber then move overflow to the left chamber.

 

[jeffaquarius]

So, my question is being that I have very limited space in this small sump, having the return pump & skimmer in the same compartment is not okay?

Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

A 2-chamber sump is only meant for a skimmer and a return pump. They must not be on the same chamber. The skimmer must have a constant water level so it can function properly. Whereas the return pump will be in a chamber that has a variable water level. That way you can have a perfect spot for your ATO. If you have 3 chambers which is a sump/fuge, then you will have a place for LR, sand and macro algae.

 

[Mebbid]

A 2 chamber sump can be used as a refugium as long as you have pre filters on the intakes of the pumps. Its not ideal, but it works