Nitrates out of control!!!

[bnr911]

I've had my tank up and running now for 6 months. I did initially start the tank with treated tap water and the switched to RO water after initial cycle.

The problem is, even with water changes my nitrates have NEVER went down...

Params are Ammonia:0, Nitites :0, pH: 8.1, Calcium: 410, Nitates 160.

I talked with my LFS and had them test my water since I thought maybe my test might not be working properly and it came back with the same results.

They suggested that I run a reactor with Seachems De Nitrate which I have been doing now for more than a month, still with no results.

I do have corals growing in there that seem to be doing well and growing, but the nitrates really have me worried.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to lower them?

I have tested my RO water and the nitrates come back at 0 and TDS is at 4.

 

[melosu58]

Have you tested your WC water to see what it is before you add it to the tank.

 

[bnr911]

Yes I have tested the water before adding to my tank. I age my water in a Rubbermaid container a week prior to adding it to my tank and all levels look great.

Ammonia, Nitites and Nitrates all come in at 0. pH is always a little low so I add Seachem marine buffer to bring that up. TDS reads anywhere from 4-6.

Even with regular water changes every week I still cannot get them lowered.

I change about 10-15 gallons a week in my 75 gallon.

I even tried doing a 50% water change and still back to the high nitrate problem

 

[Sniperhank]

Well, the nitrates have to be coming from somewhere. I would be concerned about the TDS reading in the water for 1, even though it may not be nitrates. Phosphates can also cause issues, for example.
How often are you feeding? What are you feeding? Nitrates are an end result of feeding too much. In my 55 reef, I feed 2-3 times a week. And it is pretty minimal. My fish are still quite content.
You may also want to look into other methods of filtration to address your nitrates. A protein skimmer will help pull proteins out of the water column before they make their way through the nitrate cycle, for example.

 

[bnr911]

Well, the nitrates have to be coming from somewhere. I would be concerned about the TDS reading in the water for 1, even though it may not be nitrates. Phosphates can also cause issues, for example.
How often are you feeding? What are you feeding? Nitrates are an end result of feeding too much. In my 55 reef, I feed 2-3 times a week. And it is pretty minimal. My fish are still quite content.
You may also want to look into other methods of filtration to address your nitrates. A protein skimmer will help pull proteins out of the water column before they make their way through the nitrate cycle, for example.

I do run a protein skimmer most of the time. I have been having issues with it overflowing at night at least once a month so in the evening I do unplug it until I can figure out what is causing that issue.

I feed my tank about twice a week. I feed rinsed frozen brine or Mysis shrimp. I cut one cube into 8 pieces and feed one piece twice a week since the only fish I have in there is a lawnmower blenny and a Lubbock's wrasse. Along with my Cuc and shrimps.

I have not tested for Phosphates. That will be next on my list as soon as I get a test for it.

Would high phosphates cause high nitrate readings?>

 

[Animal-Chin]

What kind of filtration are you running? Do you have a sump with liverock? Do you have a canister filter? I'm thinking you may have a build up of material somewhere. Do you have bio balls? You only have 2 fish and are hardly feeding them, waterchanges should be enough to take care of their nitrates.

I know someone who had a filter full of liverock because they were told this was a great idea. Over time these rocks trapped uneaten food and it became a holding cell for rotting food. The nitrates were high like yours until he removed all the live rock rubble which was causing the issue.

The more info you can give us teh more we can see into what your issue is.

 

[mrvincent]

High nitrates are the results of:

- Overfeeding corals/fishs.
- Water source
- Overstocked tanks
- Lack of protein skimming
- Live rocks leeching crap
- Dying stuff in the tank like a dead fish or big shrimp.
- Bad quality sea salts
- Nitrate factory spots as mentioned in the last post

I would say buy a 2x your tank total volume rated protein skimmer and add daily RedSea NO3-PO4-X (NOPOX). Also increase the frequency and size of your water changes. Make sure to always use RODI water for topoff and WC.

Also I don't think 4-6 TDS is a problem, the worst would be 6ppm nitrates, but I don't think this the problem source.

SO:
- Buy 2x rated protein skimmer
- Dose NOPOX
- Reduce fish/coral feeding
- Inspect for dying critters.
- Sand vaccum (if there's sand)
- Reconsider your stocking if needed
- If you use a canister filter, get rid of that and use a HOB
- If you're using HOB filter, clean the pad once a week
- Use turkey baster to remove crap from LR and between LR right before a WC, there's a lot of gunk coming out usually.
- Use high quality sea salt only (I recommand RedSea Pro Coral, but this is only from my opinion, this is what I use, there's other very good brands on the market)

If you have algae problem resulting from high nitrates, reduce lighting time or power during you lower the NO3s.

 

[Mebbid]

Has there been any agitation to your sand bed? There are a lot of trapped nutrients in your sand and they can be released when the sand gets turned over too much.

 

[bnr911]

What kind of filtration are you running? Do you have a sump with liverock? Do you have a canister filter? I'm thinking you may have a build up of material somewhere. Do you have bio balls? You only have 2 fish and are hardly feeding them, waterchanges should be enough to take care of their nitrates.

I know someone who had a filter full of liverock because they were told this was a great idea. Over time these rocks trapped uneaten food and it became a holding cell for rotting food. The nitrates were high like yours until he removed all the live rock rubble which was causing the issue.

The more info you can give us teh more we can see into what your issue is.

I have a sump that water trickles through filter floss into my refugium which hold cheato along with live rock rubble.

I use a reef octopus protein skimmer that is rated for a 250gph.

I use no other filtration except for the live rock in my DT.

I do have a sandbed of about 3 1/2" which my LFS told me was the best way to go. I do NOT stir it up as I have read that it can cause some major issues so I try and leave it be.

I am to the point of pulling my hair out. I have a 55 gal reef tank that is doing great and I have never had any of these issues. I use the same water and salt. The only difference is I use an HOB instead of a sump.

 

[mrvincent]

I have a sump that water trickles through filter floss into my refugium which hold cheato along with live rock rubble.
[...]
The only difference is I use an HOB instead of a sump.

Inspect the sump
Clean the filter floss.

 

[bnr911]

I will try that.

Thanks.

 

[Sniperhank]

I'd look at the protein skimmer as telling you something. Skimmers overflow when there is something in the water column that is causing it to flip out. This is evident from it happening on occasion.
Example. I added an amount of snails into my system on Saturday. My skimmer has been tuned to a place where I was happy with it giving me a wet skim that needed emptied every few days. After adding the snails, skimmer overflowing. Still is as of this morning.
You can see a similar effect when a skimmer is 'tuning in'. This is where the oils from production are being washed off...in a really basic way of looking at it.
So, there is something in the water column causing it to overflow. Does it overflow after feeding? How often do you feed? What do you feed?

 

[Fatboyfish]

I'd look at the protein skimmer as telling you something. Skimmers overflow when there is something in the water column that is causing it to flip out. This is evident from it happening on occasion.
Example. I added an amount of snails into my system on Saturday. My skimmer has been tuned to a place where I was happy with it giving me a wet skim that needed emptied every few days. After adding the snails, skimmer overflowing. Still is as of this morning.
You can see a similar effect when a skimmer is 'tuning in'. This is where the oils from production are being washed off...in a really basic way of looking at it.
So, there is something in the water column causing it to overflow. Does it overflow after feeding? How often do you feed? What do you feed?

+1

Stopping the use of the protein skimmer because it's overflowing is the opposite of what you should be doing. There is no reason why you shouldn't be running that skimmer 24/7. If its at an appropriate setting and its overflowing, let it. Replace water accordingly until it stops. Having tons of rubbish in your sump seems to be a common practice in the community. It's not needed. If you have an appropriate amount of live rock in the display adding extra bio surface in the sump is pointless. Sometimes I think reefers get so bored with their tanks they all sit around a campfire and think up ways to do more than they should.

Also I feed my tank once a day as much that can be eaten in about a minute. If you are doing more than that, try it for a little while see what happens.

 

[jeffaquarius]

If your nitrate is at 160 and do 20% pwc and keep using RO water what do you expect your readings would be? The 20% you just removed is being replenished by the nitrates producing dissolved solids from your RO and your feeding. It leaves you back to your original reading. I would suggest large water changes in successions in 1 week. When nitrate is present in your tank, it can not be removed by a skimmer. Skimmer will only prevent it by removing the nutrients before they turn into ammonia.

 

[Ingy]

Carbon dosing with vodka or 'Nitrate Destroyer' will bind the NO3 and PO4 into long organic molecules, making the skimmer more effective.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[bribo12]

Carbon dosing with vodka or 'Nitrate Destroyer' will bind the NO3 and PO4 into long organic molecules, making the skimmer more effective.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

While these methods work I would not attempt either without doing research on carbon dosing and what it entails. I'd also use vinegar over vodka as it is safer. You also need a good skimmer for carbon dosing. Not saying don't do it just saying realize what you're getting into as vodka dosing can be dangerous if you have no clue what you're doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[J.Mcpeak]

I set up my big tank end of October last year, between August and now, the nitrate has only just settled down. If it's a big tank, maybe you need to wait a few more months.
Nitrate is well controlled now.

You could simply be over feeding?

 

[mrvincent]

Carbon dosing with vodka or 'Nitrate Destroyer' will bind the NO3 and PO4 into long organic molecules, making the skimmer more effective.
Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

Vodka was effective at dropping NO3 and PO4, but vodka dosing made me having dinoflagellates outbreak. Dinos are gone since I switched to NOPOX.

NOPOX is a better way of carbon dosing.

 

[J.Mcpeak]

To half a nitrate reading, I think you need to cut it with the same ratio.

Eg, 100mg/l > 50% change = 50mg/l

 

[J.Mcpeak]

I have a sump that water trickles through filter floss into my refugium which hold cheato along with live rock rubble.

I use a reef octopus protein skimmer that is rated for a 250gph.

I use no other filtration except for the live rock in my DT.

I do have a sandbed of about 3 1/2" which my LFS told me was the best way to go. I do NOT stir it up as I have read that it can cause some major issues so I try and leave it be.

I am to the point of pulling my hair out. I have a 55 gal reef tank that is doing great and I have never had any of these issues. I use the same water and salt. The only difference is I use an HOB instead of a sump.

Trim the cheato.
Filter floss needs to be clean. (Same for any mechanical filtration)

Live rock if it hasn't been properly cured can leach back, was it re-cured by you before start up?
Even dead rock needs pre treating before use.

Ive done a lot of reading on floss use in a reef, 50:50, some really swear by it. Other folks think it a bad move and do not use floss.

(Just ideas?) really hope at they may be of use to you.