Ongoing Algae Problem

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

MarkW19

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
1,744
Location
UK
Hi guys,

As some of you may know, I've been having major problems with algae for the past few months.

My tank is a 10G nano, been set up for about 8 months, and I've been having algae problems for probably about the last 4 months.

It's mainly green hair (I think) algae, all over the live rock, glass, and in the sand. Basically everywhere! It's terrible. There's also a small amount of deep red algae, maybe cyano, but the green is by far the main problem.

About 6 weeks ago, I cut down my feedings to just once a day (either Ocean Nutrition flake, or frozen brineshrimp etc.), and reduced my lights (just 33w white/actinic) to 9-10 hours a day. The only livestock I have are an ocellaris clown, and a magenta dottyback. I had some hermit crabs/snails, but they've died within the last few weeks, no idea why (water levels constantly optimal).

My water levels and consistently fine - temp 26°C, pH 8.4, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates <5, SG 1.024.

I use RO water that I buy from my LFS, and do a 25% waterchange every 2 weeks. My filtration is mainly from LR (8KG), and also a small internal filter which I use PURA filter pads and carbon balls in (changed every 2 weeks).

Basically, I clean the algae out (as much as I can, I can't get to it all!), and then in a few days it's all back again. The glass is manageable, just annoying, but on the rock it's so hard to get off. I'd just like something that will kill off all the algae in my tank, allowing it to decompose (if possible!) or just allow me to get it all out, then KEEP it out.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Mark
 
Hair algae thrives on high nutrients.....nitrates, phosphates and silicates. Have you tested your phosphate? Also test the phosphate of the water you are buying.
Try running some GFO (granular ferric oxide) to get whatever phoshpate and silicate you may have out of the system.
 
Hair algae thrives on high nutrients.....nitrates, phosphates and silicates. Have you tested your phosphate? Also test the phosphate of the water you are buying.
Try running some GFO (granular ferric oxide) to get whatever phoshpate and silicate you may have out of the system.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm going to have my phosphates tested tomorrow at my LFS (I don't have a test kit) - am I right in thinking it should be <0.03ppm?

I'll also get some Rowaphos (GFO as you suggested), and put it in between 2 layers of PURA filter pads in my filter, to see if that helps anything.

EDIT: Just found some old Rowaphos, that's been in my garage unused for about 3-4 years. How do I find out if it's OK to use? No expiry date on it or anything, few drips of moisture on the inside of the lid.
 
Last edited:
I think I would just buy some new and not use the old stuff.

Have you tried testing your Nitrates with another kit? It could be you are getting false readings with the one you have. I would increase the PWCs to weekly (especially on a 10g) and reduce the feedings further still to once every other day. Also what are you using to top your tank off for evaporation? Are you using RO/DI water for that also or straight tap?
 
I've had my LFS test my nitrates as well yes, and they're equally low (less than 5ppm).

I don't really have the time to be doing weekly PWCs at the moment, and I'm reluctant to go to one feeding every other day, as my fish bite my hand off even as it is, at one feeding a day! :)

I use RO (the same RO as I use for my PWCs) for daily top ups.

I'm going to give the Rowaphos a go from tomorrow, fingers crossed that sorts it. If not, I'll look at doing something further.
 
Mark,
I am not as experienced as these guys but do have some experience with nanos. I have a 24 gallon, my son has a 12 gallon. He's more knowledgeable than I am so I will tell him about your post.

I've had my fair share of algae issues with my nano. Things I've learned:

1. Buy yourself a good test kit. It's a must with a nano because the water parameters can change so quickly.

2. If you have hair algae, it's a *&%#@ to get rid of! I had to scrub my rocks (in a bucket with water from my tank) and use tweezers to get it off. A child sized toothbrush, sterilized, works terrifically. You have to get it all and keep at it. Patience is the key.

3. Replace your cleaning crew if you haven't already.

4. Fish are terrible beggers. If you want to control algae in a nano, you have to stop the everyday feeding. Mine are terrible beggars. Remember that they don't eat everyday in their natural environment (or that's what I tell myself anyway). I feed mine 3x a week. Feed good quality food less often.

5. My nitrates and phosphate tests were off when I had a cyno problem (red algae??). The experts here will explain why.

6. I had to go "dark" for 48 hours to completely get rid of diatoms (brown dust on my sand) in my nano. My corals survived just fine.

7. Regular water changes with RO/DO SW is critical.

8. I top off everyday with fresh RO/DO in warm weather due to evaporation.

9. I have plenty of live rock for filtration because nanos don't have the benefit on the larger tank filtration options. I also added an extra pump for water flow because nanos can have dead spots which leads to problems.

10. I added a nano protein skimmer. I know not everyone likes them. My son got mine to fit in the sump. It really filters out a lot of junk and my water levels are very stable.

Good luck. Listen to the folks here!
 
Thanks a lot for your extensive post!

I'm going to get my phosphates and nitrates tested at my LFS tomorrow, then depending on my phosphates, get some new Rowaphos to put in my filter. Also getting 6 hermit crabs (going to leave the snails as they didn't do much last time!) and a cleaner shrimp just for good measure. I'll also feed less than I do now, but every day, that would make me feel better :)

Depending on what happens then, I may have a "dark" period of 2-3 days, so see if that helps anything.
 
Thanks.

I had my phosphates tested, and they're undetectable. The nitrates are also the same as my test kit - 4ppm.

So, I didn't go with the Rowaphos as I have OK phosphates anyway!

I got 5 hermit crabs, and a new algae scraper blade, to at least make my life a bit easier. BUT, it's still not solved the problem! My LFS mentioned it could be the type of lights - I have 1x11w actinic CF, and 2x11w FRESHWATER white CF, maybe it's the freshwater lights that are causing the problem, with them not being marine?

From your link, Melosu, I'll cut back to daily feedings (ignoring the constant begging every time I walk into the room!), cut the lights back a bit more (to just a few hours a day, maybe 7), and I'll see how that goes. If it doesn't improve, I'll do a week's total blackout, and see what happens after that.

I have tried most of the steps before though, and it keeps coming back. Oh well, I'll give it another shot and report back...
 
How old are your lights? Remember, as lights get older, the spectrum will shift and can cause algae.
Fishcrack, cyano is a bacteria and not an algae, just a friendly FYI.
 
I had my phosphates tested, and they're undetectable.
The reason phosphate is undectable, besides the inaccuracy of our hobby grade test kits, is the fact all the phosphate in the system is being sucked up by the algae. If you have an algae problem, you have a phosphate problem too.
 
How old are your lights? Remember, as lights get older, the spectrum will shift and can cause algae.
Fishcrack, cyano is a bacteria and not an algae, just a friendly FYI.

One of the lights is 8 months old, and the other 2 are about 6 months old.

But, this problem started a few months ago, when the lights would have been relatively new.
 
The reason phosphate is undectable, besides the inaccuracy of our hobby grade test kits, is the fact all the phosphate in the system is being sucked up by the algae. If you have an algae problem, you have a phosphate problem too.

Hmm, makes sense.

So, you're saying I should be trying some Rowaphos anyway, despite not being able to detect any phosphates?
 
Yep, the algae is suckin it down so fast, you aren't getting much of a reading.
 
OK cool, I'm pleased to hear that, as I was really hoping to find a high phosphate reading this morning, so that I could then do something about it!

I'm going to get some Rowaphos then. As I just had a very small internal filter, I'm thinking of getting some of the Rowaphos sponges, cutting them down to size (just small), and putting maybe 3 of them in different layers in between my current PURA filter pads.

Will that be OK?

Cheers for all the help guys.
 
How often do you clean out your filter? What about the pads, how often do you rinse them on your old SW? Do you have any sponges in the filter?
 
How often do you clean out your filter? What about the pads, how often do you rinse them on your old SW? Do you have any sponges in the filter?

At the moment, the filter has a stack of 7-8 PURA filter pads in it, all cut down very small so they fit in the filter. I do PWCs every 2 weeks, and basically change the filter pads and clean the filter every 4 weeks (or less). I rinse the new PURA pads in old SW.

I just change them all at once, as my live rock is providing most of my filtration.

I'd be cutting down to 6-7 PURA pads, so that I could fit 2-3 layers of Rowaphos sponge in between.
 
Despite my apparent total lack of measurable phosphates, if I add the Rowaphos, basically the Rowa is "eating" the phosphates, so that the algae can't, and will/should therefore not be able to survive, is that right?
 
It should absorb phosphates, but I am not 100% on that specific product. Realistically, I am thinking they may be coming from your other filter media. Try replacing them when you do PWCs and see if that helps. I am also unsure on the capabilities of the Pura pads.
 
Maybe I missed it but have you tested your PWC water to see if you are adding it to your tank.
 
Back
Top Bottom