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Old 09-24-2003, 09:05 PM   #11
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No - nitrite.
Oops - my mistake. My only thought would be that your current filtration cannot keep up with the bioload. I'm going to pass this one forward to other FO folks, as I honestly have no experience with mechanical filtration.

Quote:
We do have a CC substrate
yep, I did get that - I was stating it as a cause of nitrate (having misread nitrite for nitrite). CC substrate is notorious for trapping detritus and maintaining elevated nitrate levels.

Sorry for the mis-read!
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Old 09-24-2003, 09:08 PM   #12
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substrate / nitrates

>>CC substrate is notorious for trapping detritus and maintaining elevated nitrate levels. <<

I suggested switching to sand a while ago, based on advice from this forum. No, she likes the CC.

Would some snails help? We had 4 turbans but they died. I'm not sure whether it was our 1.020 SG or they fell & couldn't get up. We righted them every day, but couldn't during vacation week, came back to dead ones.
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Old 09-24-2003, 09:12 PM   #13
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Snails are primarily algae eaters, so although they can fend off potential algae issues, I wouldn't look to them to solve other issues (nitrites/nitrates, etc.). Also, I wouldn't recommend snails unless she agress to raise the salinity - motile inverts need a salinity of at least 1.024.

If you do decide to purchase a couple snails, look at Trochus. They are a bit more expensive, but one Trochus will do the job of 2-3 Turbos. Also, they are able to right themselves on their own.
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Old 09-24-2003, 10:14 PM   #14
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80* and 1.025 sg using a refractometer.. If two heads are better than one, then for her to use more than one source for info, would be wise, and inlightining. er Spelling.
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Old 09-24-2003, 10:25 PM   #15
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Re: Fish politics

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeitzke
I agree with your comments on parasites. To me, the LFS advice to keep SG low to discourage parasites sounds like his shortcut b/c he doesn't want to quarantine all his fish. It seems like it's stressing both fish & parasites at SG below their optimum, but it kills the parasites before it kills the fish.
Just to embelish this point a bit more....

Specific gravities at the 1.020 level will in reality do very little to inhibit or kill SW parasites. Most (not all) parasites will not be affected until the salinity levels are much lower, closer 14 ppt or 1.009 SG. Might want to include that when you explain things.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:34 PM   #16
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Refractometer - better than hydrometer?

Refractometer? Is that some other type of device to measure specific gravity? We use a cheap plastic hydrometer, same in principal as the ones I use to measure car battery acid. Aren't these simple devices accurate enough?

Cheers,

Bob Peitzke
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:37 PM   #17
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You have no mechanical filter?

Teri,

Aren't you using any mechanical filter in your large tank? (I saw your picture of it.) Does yours rely solely on LR and substrate for its filtering? That would be cool!

Cheers,

Bob
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Old 09-25-2003, 01:46 PM   #18
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I do not use any mechanical filtration other than the occasional Carbon bag, and the Protien skimmer about once a month.

LR, LS and mother nature does the trick
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Old 09-25-2003, 02:42 PM   #19
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Refractometer? Is that some other type of device to measure specific gravity?
Yep - this is a refractometer:



Quote:
Aren't these simple devices accurate enough?
Some ppl have good luck with them, I don't trust them. We had one of these before the refractometer -



The readings fluctuated notoriously, and when we finally bought the refractometer, we realized that the water we thought was at 1.025 was really at 1.029. Ouch.

Quote:
Aren't you using any mechanical filter in your large tank? (I saw your picture of it.) Does yours rely solely on LR and substrate for its filtering? That would be cool!
No mechanical filtration, unless you include a Protein Skimmer as mechnical filtration. Just LR & DSB (and a refugium). This really isn't unusual - tends to be the "standard" with reef tanks - wet dry's, canister filters, etc., are often recommended for FO tanks, but are not suggested for reef tanks.

With LR & DSB, A/N/N have all tested at 0.00 since tank was set up. This has never varied.
pH = 8.1 (am), to 8.35 (pm)
Ca = 435
dKH = 11.0
p04 = 0.00
Salinity = 1.025
Temp = 80.5F - 81.5F (fall/winter/spring), 81F - 83F (summer)

We also have a relatively small bioload, but the tank was set up with *minimal maintenance* in mind. I run the magnet over the glass a couple times a week, and feed the tank daily. Other than that, we do a 20% water change once a month, and clean out the pumps & skimmer at that time, and add kalk powder to the Nilsen reactor monthly. No other maintenance is done (unless RO/DI filters need replacing).

I'm lazy!
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Old 09-27-2003, 03:03 AM   #20
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LR definitely has a positive effect on the nitrification process. (IMO definitely worth every $) Curing it may be a problem for you though since your tank already has inhabitants. (not ALL LR needs to be cured) I would suggest temp. 80-82, SG 1.023-1.024 (FO/LR tank). Which ever you choose, most importantly keep them as steady as possible. I stress most- LR, LR, LR. I swear by it JMHO
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