ph a little low - what methods are best to raise it a bit ?

[fourmyclowns]

still new at this, but have taken over care of an established tank. My ph readings are right around 7.7 to 8.0. I'm not a good judge of color but my husband's opinion is 8.0, I see it as 7.7 or 8.0 but think I'm seeing a decrease over time. Should I try a chemical increaser? The previous owner gave me some PH increaser that says for freshwater, not sure if he ever used it for the saltwater or if it was for a different tank. I'm not sure the most practical method of adding a chemical - would I add it to my next water change?


I read something about increasing the circulation in the water bringing it back up - any opinions on that method?

 

[aquafreak]

...perhaps PH can be somewhat stubborn but....I might try to add some Calcium to the water which may actually help raise the PH. Some people even use a Calcium Reactor but this is expensive.

I use a SeaChem Reef Suppliment with Ca (this helps grow the good algae like coraline)

At some point, despite the addition of Calcium (in most systems at least), the PH will become stable and will not increase regardless of the levels of this element.

My thoughts at least....

 

[fourmyclowns]

Thanks for your reply! What method do you use to add it? (ie:mix it into the next water change or how?)

 

[EJS4]

Have a couple of questions? What time of day did you measure pH? Do you have a glass top on the tank? What type of water are you using?
Each of these can have an effect on the pH.
increasing circulation and breaking water surface (ripples or splash) can increase pH if CO2 build up is cause of lower pH.

 

[mjvincent]

Marine buffers can also increase ph and alk. After more info is provided (test parameters for CA and dKH) we can help you better. Until then try more surface agitation (if there isn't any) and use eggcrate as a cover for the tank rather than glass (helps gas exchange).

 

[malkore]

I suspect the tank hasn't had good water changes in recent months (from the way you describe having to 'take over the care of the tank'). I suspect alkalinity is low, causing a low pH.
You need an alkalinty/Carbonate hardness test kit. Run the test and report the results back here.

 

[fourmyclowns]

We are using RO water and adding our own salt. I measure the ph around 2:30 on Thursdays. I have an oak top on it now that is open on the wall side. We had to add it to keep my toddler from throwing things into the tank! We do change the water frequently. When we first got it we waited about three weeks but now we are doing weekly changes. We have a wavemaker and a maxijet pump. We have an extra little pump we put in for a little while but it seemed like it was stirring up the sand so we took it out. From these posts I'm thinkin we should put it back in close to the surface? We also added a fan but I've only been running it on hot days, should I run it more? I will do the alk/hardness test when the kids are in bed. It might be tomorrow before I can post but I will get it done.

 

[fourmyclowns]

Okay, tested the KH (carbonate hardness) and I did the more accurate test using 10ml tank water (1drop testing fluid=1/2'dH) . It took me 15 drops. If I understand it right that would equal 7.5dH. Does that mean our water is TOO hard?

Malkore's post said:
"You need an alkalinty/Carbonate hardness test kit. Run the test and report the results back here"
Is this test one test (the one I just did) or should I be looking for an additional one that specifically says "alkalinity"? I still need to go buy the Calcium test but that will have to happen tomorrow late in the day.

 

[seve1]

I think you would like to see that around 10 to 11. So you would could add a buffer as mjvincent said and slowly raise the alkalinity and the pH will probably follow.

 

[steve-s]

7.5 DKH is a fine level and will maintain pH properly. The issue is aeration, not chemistry. Add an additional powerhead at the surface (heavy surface rippling without splashing) and keep the fan in the hood running all the time. This will help bring up the pH naturally. It will also increase evaporation so have top off water ready each day.

The only time you want to use a higher alk level is when correcting environmental issues are ineffective. Even then, chemical means are merely a bandaid and will continue to be a problem.

Cheers
Steve

 

[fourmyclowns]

Okay, so far today I tested the ph at 3:30 (close to my usual time) and I see a tiny increase. When it comes to color it's a judgment issue but I think it's a little closer to 8 not but not an exact match to the color card as being 8. I will keep all your info in mind. I will start with the aeration and if I get to the lfs today I'll pick up the other items, calc test and buffer if they are not too expensive just to have them on hand.

Steve - about how long should I work with the aeration and testing the ph before I see it at a better level? A week or so? Am I harming my fish at the current level? What is the best level to acheive?

Thanks for hanging in there with me!!!!

 

[fourmyclowns]

tested the calcium and came up with 420 mg/l tonight.

 

[steve-s]

about how long should I work with the aeration and testing the ph before I see it at a better level? A week or so?

Souldn't take too long. Once the fan is going 24/7 and the powerhead is added for surface aggitation it should take more than a few days. Might also try keeping a window open in that room when possible. Be sure you cut down on organics as well.

Am I harming my fish at the current level? What is the best level to acheive?

8.1-8.3 midway through the photoperiod is ideal but anything above 8.0 during the day is fine. It's not uncommon for it to go higher near the end of the photoperiod. Test the pH just before lights on to see what the pH level is then. That will tell you how low it's getting at night and if there is any danger. Commonly it will dip to 7.8-7.9 at night without problems to the inhabitants. How long is the photoperiod?

tested the calcium and came up with 420 mg/l tonight.

Not bad at all. The alk needs a bit of a tweek but nothing significant. At least it shows the chemistry is not the cause. You can use this calulator to help regain a better balance. Just keep in mind your not looking for exact numbers, simpley be in the right range of balance.
http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html

Cheers
Steve

 

[fourmyclowns]

oops - didn't see your post until after I posted this!

tested ph today and it's still at 8.0. Running the fan 24/7 and added a small pump near the surface.Chgd 10% yesterday.


I'll test in the AM tomorrow. Photoperiod is 12hrs 9am-9pm.

 

[fourmyclowns]

ph this morning before turning on the lights was 7.7

 

[steve-s]

A tad low for the early AM but nothing I would panic about as long as the daytime pH is 8.0+. Give it a few more days with what's been discussed and see how it goes. Even if you can get the average low to 7.8, it will be good enough.

Curious, Do you have any algaes in the tank? Can you post a pic of your open hood area?

Cheers
Steve

 

[fourmyclowns]

I do have two types of algae in the tank. I see some (not a huge amount)green algae on the back (we don't scrape the back) and we've had some brown algae on the sand since the sand settled. We are trying to be patient and wait for it to "burn off". I'll try to get a good pict of the back.

http://community.webshots.com/user/momndaboyz

 

[steve-s]

Since your tank was recently moved, it will no doubt have had some changes and growing pains yet. The algaes blooms are evidence of that unless you've been using tap water? I would not be too alarmed at this point. Sounds as though you have added some new sand and such might have been some die off in the move as well. It just needs time to stabalize.

How about the pic of the open area of the hood?

Cheers
Steve

 

[fourmyclowns]

Okay, picts are posted on Webshots, the like is above . We only use RO water and I believe the prev. owner did the same since he recommended it. It's possible there was some tap at one time though. The sand came with it.We've had it since the first week of March.

 

[steve-s]

Even though all original, a moved tank still needs to "settle" again so to speak.

Was the surface aggitation always that brisk or the the result of the added powerhead? Does the room the tanks in usually have the windows opened or closed?

Cheers
Steve