I wanted to ask the forum members what phosphate/silicate absorber they would recomend using for a reef tank. I am currently tap water for my aquarium. I know everyone recomends using RO/DI water, but buying an RO/DI setup is not an option at this point. I am looking for something that can be put in a canister filter.
phosphate/silicate remover recomendations
- Thread starter SpEd
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indy
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Look at it this way. You (likely) have more bad stuff in your water than just phosphate and silicate. You can use removers for what they make removers for, and they will need to be replaced fairly often, which will definately add up, and you'll still have bad stuff being introduced into your water. Or you can make do with tap water for now, which unless you have a nice reef setup will be just fine, and put the money you would have spent on the removers into savings. Then you can buy an RO unit off of ebay for around $90 if I remember right and be set for a nice long time with higher quality water.
FWIW, I used tap water straight out of the faucet for about 9 months with a starter/softie reef setup and saw no ill effects. I now use an RO unit, and do water changes approximately whenever the hell I feel like it, or around every 4 months or so, combined with an algae filter, dsb, and very high tech prizm skimmer. My reef did ok with tap water, but is thriving since the changeover, it was well worth the $90 I paid.
But as for your original question, I believe they are all pretty much the same.
FWIW, I used tap water straight out of the faucet for about 9 months with a starter/softie reef setup and saw no ill effects. I now use an RO unit, and do water changes approximately whenever the hell I feel like it, or around every 4 months or so, combined with an algae filter, dsb, and very high tech prizm skimmer. My reef did ok with tap water, but is thriving since the changeover, it was well worth the $90 I paid.
But as for your original question, I believe they are all pretty much the same.
RLG2182
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I 100% agree with Indy. Why buy chemicals to compensate for something that you know you should be changing? It's under $100. Any chemicals you'd buy will total around $20 anyways... why not just save up and save the hassle of having to worry about additives that might not work all the way as advertised? Costs of replenishing these chemicals will add to the total of an RO/DI unit over time.
IMO, natural is best. I won't add chemicals in unless I truly NEED to. My RO/DI was my best investment... and it was only $100!
Think about it... fish can live in tupperware. Fish can live in a tank with regular GE bulbs bought for $.99 each. Fish can live w/o a heater if you live in a warm area. Heck, fish can even live in your closet if there was a tank there. The MAIN thing that will determine the health of your fish is water. Without water purity... you'll end up with nice equipment, and potentially unhealthy fish/corals. Now, keep in mind that you can also get RO/DI water from LFS around your area... this might help ya out if the initial total of a unit is out of your grasp. 
I know I wouldn't like to breathe air straight from a car exhaust or other known polluters. No thanks... I prefer fresh air. IME, better to fix the root of the problem rather than find patches. HTH 
IMO, natural is best. I won't add chemicals in unless I truly NEED to. My RO/DI was my best investment... and it was only $100!
Think about it... fish can live in tupperware. Fish can live in a tank with regular GE bulbs bought for $.99 each. Fish can live w/o a heater if you live in a warm area. Heck, fish can even live in your closet if there was a tank there. The MAIN thing that will determine the health of your fish is water. Without water purity... you'll end up with nice equipment, and potentially unhealthy fish/corals. Now, keep in mind that you can also get RO/DI water from LFS around your area... this might help ya out if the initial total of a unit is out of your grasp. I know I wouldn't like to breathe air straight from a car exhaust or other known polluters. No thanks... I prefer fresh air.
IME, better to fix the root of the problem rather than find patches. HTH Thanks for the input.
The cost of the RO/DI system is not the issue at this time. My house is undergoing extensive remodeling and the area I have in mind for the unit is one of the last to be completed and won't be ready until at least the beginning of august.
I was just looking for a temporary solution. I am planning on increasing my inverts to help control with the algae. I was just looking for something to hold off the cyano until I could get everything set up.
I kept FW tanks for about 6 year before making the plunge into SW, and I am a firm believer in limiting chemical input to a minimum. I also understand that money well spent in the set up leads to big saving in the long run.
I just need a temporary fix. Or would you just recommend manually dealing with the algae and dosing with chemi clean for the cyano until I can get everything set up?
The cost of the RO/DI system is not the issue at this time. My house is undergoing extensive remodeling and the area I have in mind for the unit is one of the last to be completed and won't be ready until at least the beginning of august.
I was just looking for a temporary solution. I am planning on increasing my inverts to help control with the algae. I was just looking for something to hold off the cyano until I could get everything set up.
I kept FW tanks for about 6 year before making the plunge into SW, and I am a firm believer in limiting chemical input to a minimum. I also understand that money well spent in the set up leads to big saving in the long run.
I just need a temporary fix. Or would you just recommend manually dealing with the algae and dosing with chemi clean for the cyano until I can get everything set up?
SirLight1337
Aquarium Advice Activist
I purchased my RO unit and it came with all the connections and everything to be run under a sink. I went to the local hardware store and picked up some fittings that went from a garden hose fixture to the 1/2 inch on the RO unit and put some teflon on it and off we go. Connect it to a garden hose outlet and turn it on and watch the pure water flowww.
A couple of quick questions.
Should I use RO or RO/DI?
Second, if am understanding this right, the units are "semi" portable (they can be connected and disconnect and moved without shuting off the water to the house or calling a plumber). Is this correct or am I missing something? If this is the case, I could install one, and then move it around to other locations in the house as the remodel dictated.
Should I use RO or RO/DI?
Second, if am understanding this right, the units are "semi" portable (they can be connected and disconnect and moved without shuting off the water to the house or calling a plumber). Is this correct or am I missing something? If this is the case, I could install one, and then move it around to other locations in the house as the remodel dictated.
RLG2182
Aquarium Advice FINatic
RO/DI. Not all of the Phosphates and Silicates will be taken out with RO only... only a DI will take the rest of the crud out. If you need a temp solution, go with water purhcased from a LFS. Just make sure to ask them if it is RO water (RO is definately better than nothing!! ). Don't be afraid to ask to test their water with a TDS meter... if they don't have one, how can they know it's pure? hah.
Most units are semi portable, yes. The only thing that hooks mine up to my sink is a "T" valve and a saddle valve. Both can be easily replaced when you move out. You can also merely hook them up with a garden hose adaptor/faucet adaptor and have the waste water drain into your sink/tub. That way, you don't have to plumb it in.
). Don't be afraid to ask to test their water with a TDS meter... if they don't have one, how can they know it's pure? hah.Most units are semi portable, yes. The only thing that hooks mine up to my sink is a "T" valve and a saddle valve. Both can be easily replaced when you move out. You can also merely hook them up with a garden hose adaptor/faucet adaptor and have the waste water drain into your sink/tub. That way, you don't have to plumb it in.
Brisc0
Aquarium Advice FINatic
They are portable. A trashcan in the garage with the unit sititng on top and your water hose hooked up would work. The majority of RO/DI units sold come with water hose adapters as the standard hookup.
did a quick search on ebay and found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20684&item=4384648808&rd=1
Is this the type of system?[/url]
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20684&item=4384648808&rd=1
Is this the type of system?[/url]
RLG2182
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Yeah... it's similar one to the one I have.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46310&item=4369895193&rd=1
Most of them do the same thing... I just went with the one made by filterdirect... it works PERFECTLY.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46310&item=4369895193&rd=1
Most of them do the same thing... I just went with the one made by filterdirect... it works PERFECTLY.
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
I have mine hooked in the laundry room.... Hose adapter hooked to the washer hook up.... very easy to move around... It will be the best $100 you have spent on the tank. TDS meter IMO is needed for another $25 and your good to go.
lasek2k1
Aquarium Advice Regular
well since august is not too far away....you could just buy distilled water from the grocery store at least. the money so spend for top-offs plus weekly/bi-weekly water changes might still beat the price of 1 container of filter media.
its not as good as ro water but its probaly a lot better than tap. and 2 months on distilled probably won't hurt you livestock
its not as good as ro water but its probaly a lot better than tap. and 2 months on distilled probably won't hurt you livestock
gooyferret
Aquarium Advice FINatic
sped, thats the exact one that i bought for my tank....I have a 125gal reef setup and looks awesome and that unit makes alot of water....I got a holding tank from pepsi to hold the water and just turn the garden hose on when i need water and off when the tank is full (too cheap to buy a float switch for it)
very true i had a 75gal setup and had to use distilled water for a few months and didnt notice a change in the tank at all...I actually thought the water was clearer.
gooyferret
Aquarium Advice FINatic
My holding tank is 55gal or so....For the "shelf life" i dont have to worry about since i use ALOT of water having a 125gal tank. As long as you have the holding tank sealed up you shouldnt have to worry about "shelf life" I will try and get some pictures to show you how i have it setup.
schoeplein
Aquarium Advice Addict
Heh, I just fill up two 5-gallon ozarka bottles from the filtration unit by the HEB or Albertson's. UV->Carbon->RO->DI->Microfilter->UV... something like that, 5-7 step filtration... super clear, super clean.
Don424
Aquarium Advice Apprentice
No brainer..........RO or RO/DI water, Phosban or Phosguard when the phosphate is high. Many tank foods are high in Phosphorus also. ...you may nned to take a look at that too.
Good luck
Good luck
seaham358
Aquarium Advice Addict
I use a 32 gal rubber maid brute, as long as you add a power head for movement the water lasts a long time. I have mixed water and left in the can for months. I have a heater and ph in the can.. When doing water changes you want to use heated water...
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