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Old 03-16-2006, 10:22 PM   #11
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Add another DI housing.. I run 2 on my unit what is a high s?? on top of the unit should be the membrane, the DI should be the last stage on the unit..
I run 2 becaue i had high po4 in my water, works great.. A Pb reactor is great but you need to take care of the ro/di in order to get the problem under control.. Did I mention to add another DI housing...
Again both DI housing should be the last 2 stages in the unit.. I rotate the resin when I change them out.. The last one gets moved to DI #1 and then #1 gets tossed and the new resin goes into the last stage... Works well this way and you get a lot of use out of the resin.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:49 PM   #12
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The obvious..Did the hair algae start after you serviced the RO/DI unit or before?
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:55 PM   #13
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Seaham
I remember you telling me about rotating the resin. My question is why couldnt I put an in line 10" catrdige in my final output line going into the trash can? Its the same thing but less expensive?

Its the same as a housing but 1/3 the price. Fits the same amt of resin from what I understand. I can still rotate the resin? Does this make sense?
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Old 03-17-2006, 11:27 AM   #14
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Hello,

Just tagging on instead of starting a new thread. I too was/am battling hair algea, but I know mine was from lack on Maintenance.

Did a large PWC as well as manually removed about 90% of the visible algea. I have been focusing on nitrates which seem acceptable 0.2-0.4 right now. After doing some reading I am now checking my PO4 which is likely the culprit. Last night the tank was somewhere between 1-2. I say this because on the low end P04 test(0-1) it was defiantely over 1, but when I did the high end P04 test(1-5) it did not register. I did check my RO source and it is reading 0.

Two questions:
1. Assuming 0 PO4 is ideal what is an acceptable level before you will have a problem?
2. What is best method to remove it? Right now I am using PWC and have another planned for this weekend (30g).

I have seen products called a phosphate sponge (granular subsatste that I assume you run like carbon), but not sure if they work.

Now I see discussion about Phosban reactor. Not sure what this is or if it is required. How costly? Can someone send me a link?

So far Corals have not been affected and are even looking much better after the maintenance last weekend.

TIA,
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:04 PM   #15
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Phosban Reactor:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...pc=1&N=0&Nty=1

Cost with media, backup sponges and a powerhead...about $60 bucks.

I'm not too sure at what level of PO4 that Hair Algae starts to grow, but I threw my reactor on the side of my sump and after 1 week of PWC's (30%) and the reactor going, my algae problem has dimminished 95%.

Now I did add a new 36W Turbo Twist UV sterilizer, so that may have helped too, but my levels for PO4 are 0 now.
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Old 03-17-2006, 04:59 PM   #16
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Thanks, I ran out to LFS at lunch and picked up some "PURA phosLock". I currently use the PURA filter pads and like them and the LFS owner praised this stuff very highly. This weekend after I complete my PWC I am going to put it in a mesh bag in my sump baffles and then check my readings after a day. I am also going to cut my lights back to 8 hours (currently about 10).

As for the Phosban Reactor it does not appear to come with a pump, so I am assuming it would need it own or be hooked up in line with the return pump? If so how easy is it to change out the media? Do you just install a ball valve on each side?

Is this basically the same thing as the phosban:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...&N=2004+113427

I have the opportunity to pick one up for $20.

From what I understand if I get the P04 down to 0-.1 the algea should start to die off on its own.

One other thing, not being a chemistry major (my only "C" in college) where does the P04 come from? Is it a bi-product? I have checked my current RO source and it tests 0. Could it be the salt mix? I am currently using oceanic. Just wondering.
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:18 PM   #17
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fishman that would work also..
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Old 03-18-2006, 01:44 AM   #18
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I dont know if the reactor that you put the link to would work or not. Looks like the phosban one that I have a little...I dont know that I wouldnt spend a little more to ensure it works. Mine works great. Just hook a very small pump to one end of it and put the phosban granules in the reactor and off you go. VERY easy to install. Drs Foster Smith has the best price as far as I can tell. I was going to buy another one yesterday and decided not to.
PO4 can be in anything...food, salt, water additives, water, etc.

Seaham
I actually decided to do what you do. I found a cannister on Ebay for $7 that will work with my RO unit. So I got out cheap on this deal! I have my own resin and will fill a refillable DI cartidge and this solve my problem. I went to anothe LFS today and they tested my water out of the tap and it was between .10 and .25 of PO4. They also tested my RO water and it was a trace. My tank is 0. I think the other fish store the other day may have not known how to use their test for PO4. They came up with 5-10 PPM in my mixing SW. Seems to be a huge difference. I have a PO4 tester and it has always came out with 0...dont know what to think.
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