Question about RO/DI

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I have a similar unit. The only problem I see with that one is it doesn't have clear canisters. You'll want to be able to see your filters. You also want to be able to see your DI media as it changes color as it exhausts. The DI filter on these units is a bit small and oriented horizontally. If you get a cartridge that isn't full of media, a lot of the water will bypass it. Other than that, my unit produces water with a TDS of about 1 which is about as good as you can expect from any of them.
 
thanks for the advices!! :D

Is it simple to install?

Ans how often do I have to clean this (changing filter, etc.)?
 
Yes, installing it is fairly simple. It helps if you have a little experience with plumbing, but anyone can do it if they read the directions carefully. You'll want to flush the RO membrane for several hours before you hook up the DI cartridge. The RO is packed in chemicals that will deplete the DI resin very quickly if they aren't flushed out. How often you change the filters depends on the quality of the water that's coming in to the unit. As a general guide though, plan on replacing the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months. The RO membrane should last you a year or longer. The DI resin will change color as it is depleted so you can tell when to change it by looking at it. The best thing to do is invest in a TDS meter. They aren't very expensive and will tell you when the RO/DI units performance is falling off. I would go ahead and order replacement sediment, carbon, and DI cartridges when I ordered the unit. You can wait about the RO membrane until you need one. I would call them and see about getting one with clear canisters though...I don't think it costs much more to upgrade.
 
wow... what an explanation!!! :D

I think it convinced me to buy one.

Thank you all for your help :)
 
Another question... What's the difference between using water from an RO/DI filter or distilled water? Which one is better?
 
Another question... What's the difference between using water from an RO/DI filter or distilled water? Which one is better?

I have read in a few places that distilled water is considered more pure than RO/DI water. RO/DI is only able to remove 95% of dissolved minerals. On the other hand, distilled water picks up CO2 making it acidic and can help fuel algae. I also read somewhere that distilled water is sometimes known to be held in copper tanks and can absorb traces.
 
Toddwess,
That system looks OK. I don't think you got beat on the price since you got all the filter carts with it. Be sure you flush the RO membrane for a few hours before you hook up the DI chamber.

I have used both RO/DI and distilled water and have never had any issues with either. The drawback to RO/DI is the high initial cost of setting up the unit. Distilled gets expensive and is a pain to go buy all the time. I installed a Kent 24gpd Maxxima unit at one of my customers place of business. They use the water in their sterilizers as well as their 180 gal reef. The unit will pay for itself in about 8 months since they no longer have to buy all that distilled water. After that, they're making money on it.
 
Thanks for the feedback, loganj. The info you provided about flushing the RO membrane is much appreciated!!! I have no idea to do with this thing when it gets here! Thanks for the pointers.

I'm so NERVOUS about starting salt-water again. I'm going so very SLOW this time! I want to make sure my water is PERFECT this time.

The first fish that will go in the tank are going into quarantien tomorrow for their 4-week stay before they get introduced into the main tank. EVERYONE is getting quarantiened this time! :)

Thanks again, loganj!
Todd
 
loganj said:
Toddwess,
That system looks OK. I don't think you got beat on the price since you got all the filter carts with it. Be sure you flush the RO membrane for a few hours before you hook up the DI chamber.

Again - thanks for the advice!

Question - how long do I flush the membrane? It is a 75 GPD system and it has been flushing for 2 hours. Is that enough?

thanks!
todd
 
I have a RO/DI simaler to the one you are looking at. They work well, I find that clear canesters are not needed but insted a hand held TDS meter to get your DDS. With out I was getting 260 ppm with 1 ppm when you raise aprox 10% you will need to change filters...... :lol:

P.S.
I have added a permeate pump works great no power needed........
http://www.aquatec.com/new/products_files/energy_saving/permeate.htm
 
I guess it is a matter of preference.

Frankly, I do not have the time nor the patience to constantly check my output with a handheld TDS. I use an in-line TDS meter which is not a whole lot more expensive than the hand-held. Also, I can't imagine not having clear canisters - I like to see what is going on with my sediment and DI cartridges with a quick look when I walk by my filter.
 
Frankly,

It does not matter what the filters look like, are they doing the job? You cant tell this by the look. Yes an inline TDS meter does save a little time but it only takes me a couple of minutes every couple of weeks or so with a small hand held meter. My RO/DI unit has been running for over 3 months now and has not come off the 1 ppm TDS yet(with a 90 gal top up water changes ect).
Mine is also puchased from Aqua-safe, no complaints. It also has a built in flush system in it, works well to prolong filters. One thing don't exspect to get your best reading the first time you run it, it takes a couple of days to break in the filters.
 
OMG...........
I just found this for you fernzpat what a great package I got mine to soon.... :roll:
ALSO check out the link for the permeate pump small price to pay for what it does...and it does what they say it does.........you can find them on E-Bay search PERMEAT PUMP
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2372221327&category=20684

I would also like to add to what I said earlier. Yes you would need clear canisters if you have color change filters.......but what shade is it really ????? I like a number seems more reliable to me.......
 
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