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Old 12-24-2014, 02:47 PM   #11
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I'm not sure what it would take to get a "accurate" number. It ends up being relative anyways. Once you start using the meter, you kind of calibrate to your own standard.


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Old 12-24-2014, 03:30 PM   #12
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Well that went fast. Without GFO on, phosphates shot up to .11 in about 36 hours. I put about 1/2 of what was in the reactor and turned it on again.

As for lighting, I have a couple acros high up in the tank that have lightened up quite a bit since getting them in the last month or so. They are still growing/encrusting on the rocks and showing polyps, but the reds have lightened up pretty significantly.

Like Greg said, having a good idea of where things generally stand as far as lights go is more the point. I think getting the LEDs dialed in on this tank has been a bit tough given that it is so darned shallow. Top of the sand to the water line is ~9.5 - 10.5" depending on piles the pistol shrimp has decided to make that day. So I'm thinking that two non-dimmable Onyx fixtures that were roughly 12-14" above the tank which is 48" wide x 18" deep x 9.5-10.5" (sand to waterline) is a ton of light.
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Old 12-24-2014, 03:46 PM   #13
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Raising Phosphates

I partially bleached a couple of acro frags this week, one was one you gave me. Too much light for that variety.


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Old 12-25-2014, 04:49 PM   #14
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Using a PAR meter is not really necessary and it might just not help. You may get enough PAR without getting the right amount of PUR knowing that corals only use certain band of light frequency from your light regardless of the fixture. The meter would be beneficial only if you already have a stable set up and you want to have a reference on your PAR readings from same particular fixture.
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Old 12-26-2014, 04:48 PM   #15
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And PUR is a moving target depending on flow and other considerations. But it is a good tool once you get use to yours. It can certainly help you from burning corals once you have honed in on it.


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