blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
How dangerous is it to fish? and how much of it can be dangerous?
Red Algae
- Thread starter blindskate
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
roka64
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I agree, a pic would help.
OP
OP
blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
thanks
Ziggy953
Aquarium Advice Addict
I'm guessing we were talking about Cyanobacteria and not algae. Excess nutrients...
OP
OP
blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
bacteria...algae w/e...it's still algae-ish.. but i dont wanna read an article...does anybody have real experience. i can jsut simply buy some stuff to get away with it...but anybody ever had it?
Devilishturtles
Aquarium Advice Addict
The article is based on real experience 
roka64
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I agree, you do not want to put in a chemical to kill the bacteria (it is not algae"ish") because that can possibly kill off your beneficial bacteria (and cause an ammonia/nitrIte spike). A chemical or quick cure will only clean up the problem temporarily. If you don't get to the root of the cause, you will always be fighting the same battle.
Ziggy953
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes I have real experience with it. I read the article. Quick fixes in this hobby tend to lead to other problems later. If you are going to invest the $$$$$ into your tank spend a few minutes and read the article. Do some research...
OP
OP
blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
well i just wanted a quick answer, thats why i asked you guys! i thot it would be easier...guess not. thanks.
Kurt_Nelson
Aquarium Advice Addict
I guess it's a great time to learn that there are NO quick answers when it comes to salt water!
Well... unless you ask if it's OK to put TWO yellow tangs in a 10g tank.
Ziggy953
Aquarium Advice Addict
It isn't dangerous in and of its self. It is an indication of high NitrAtes and or Phosphates. It means you have issues with your water quality. Test your water.
That is as short an answer I can offer.
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
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Ok, here is your quick answer:
"Cyanobacteria in itself is pretty interesting stuff. Cyano is one of the oldest known fossils, more than 3.5 billion years old. This says a lot for its ability to adapt. And though we find it unsightly and it can be destructive to an extent in the marine tank, it is one of the largest and most important groups of bacteria. Among other things, it's an important provider of nitrogen fertilizer in the cultivation of rice and beans. It is photosynthetic and can manufacture its own food while producing oxygen. It also feeds off of organic materials in our closed systems. Not all of these organic substances can be removed by skimming and despite best plans and actions aquarists frequently run into some cyanobacteria problems, especially when their systems are going through initial cycling and settling in. Slime algae" can come in shades of blue-green, red, brown, and black.
What causes it?
As mentioned previously, it is caused by excess organics in a system. This can be brought on by excess feeding, overstocking, lack of filtration, infrequent water changing or from the excess nutrients from cycling a new system. Also, because it is photosynthetic, long light cycles encourage growth.
How do I get rid of it?
The best way to get to battle cyano would be diligent tank maintenance. A combination of regular water changes, great filtration, not over feeding or over stocking, manual removal and good water flow. Regular water changes will help remove organics and lower nitrate and phosphate levels which are large fueling sources. Regular testing will help you keep your level in check but, keep in mind that test kits can only measure inorganic phosphorus. If any phosphates show in your testing, this means there is a higher amount of organic phosphates. Anything above 0.03ppm should be lowered asap. I feel at this point I should also add that using tap water may be adding to the problem. Testing your tap water would be advised. Some tap water contains phosphates and nitrates in which case RO/DI water would be necessary for top offs and salt mixing. Other things that may help are adding more waterflow to your tank. Cyano will thrive in low flow stagnant areas. Manual removal will help as well. Siphoning the cyano from your sand/gravel and rocks with airline tubing will help remove bulk amounts of cyano. Be sure to remove any cyano that you wipe from the sides of the tank as well. Feed less. Just because the fish swim to the top like spoiled dogs begging doesn't mean they need fed every time you walk past the tank. Actually, it's good practice to skip a day of feeding. Many aquarists feed every other day. Commercially prepared foods contain a lot of phosphates as well. A homemade frozen blender mush* is a good alternative frozen food. This is a mix of fresh seafood and vitamins thats not full of preservatives. If feeding daily, feed small amounts so there isn't a lot of excess food laying around. If feeding frozen foods, thaw the food in some tank water and drain before feeding. Care should also be taken when feeding inverts/corals. It's easy to overfeed so be wary of adding too much. Few animals will feed on cyano and only as a last resort for food. Some hermits may pick at it and nerite snails are said to eat it but the only true consumer is strombus sp. Introducing macros that will compete for the nutrients will help as well. Lastly, there are several chemical products on the market that can be used to control cyano. These can be a mixed blessing. While it may control and/or eliminate your cyanobacteria, these fixes are usually temporary. Cyano being so adaptable, unless you change the conditions in your tank that is causing the problem in the first place, it will often adjust itself to the new chemicals and reappear over time.
In closing, cyanobacteria is not the end of the world. Algaes of all types are to be expected in a new system. When the tank first cycles, there is an over abundance of nutrient and as a result much larger than needed bacterial populations. Once the nutrient load is reduced and fish added (or inverts), the bacteria start to die off. The nutrient bound up in these bacteria then become a great source of algae fuel. Once the tank reaches a more static level (waste in/waste out), these algaes subside naturally for the most part albeit unsightly for the short term if the conditions/removal suggestions are followed. Limit nutrients through regular water changing, careful feeding, limiting use of supplements, proper lighting, adequate filtration, circulation and aeration, and the addition of macro algaes. If you do have an outbreak of cyanobacteria, look for the fuel source. Things like lack of competing algaes, overabundance of chemicals and foods, as well as stagnant, low oxygenated water are pretty easy fixes and are better for the long term health of your tank."
Take these steps and you will be good as gold.
"Cyanobacteria in itself is pretty interesting stuff. Cyano is one of the oldest known fossils, more than 3.5 billion years old. This says a lot for its ability to adapt. And though we find it unsightly and it can be destructive to an extent in the marine tank, it is one of the largest and most important groups of bacteria. Among other things, it's an important provider of nitrogen fertilizer in the cultivation of rice and beans. It is photosynthetic and can manufacture its own food while producing oxygen. It also feeds off of organic materials in our closed systems. Not all of these organic substances can be removed by skimming and despite best plans and actions aquarists frequently run into some cyanobacteria problems, especially when their systems are going through initial cycling and settling in. Slime algae" can come in shades of blue-green, red, brown, and black.
What causes it?
As mentioned previously, it is caused by excess organics in a system. This can be brought on by excess feeding, overstocking, lack of filtration, infrequent water changing or from the excess nutrients from cycling a new system. Also, because it is photosynthetic, long light cycles encourage growth.
How do I get rid of it?
The best way to get to battle cyano would be diligent tank maintenance. A combination of regular water changes, great filtration, not over feeding or over stocking, manual removal and good water flow. Regular water changes will help remove organics and lower nitrate and phosphate levels which are large fueling sources. Regular testing will help you keep your level in check but, keep in mind that test kits can only measure inorganic phosphorus. If any phosphates show in your testing, this means there is a higher amount of organic phosphates. Anything above 0.03ppm should be lowered asap. I feel at this point I should also add that using tap water may be adding to the problem. Testing your tap water would be advised. Some tap water contains phosphates and nitrates in which case RO/DI water would be necessary for top offs and salt mixing. Other things that may help are adding more waterflow to your tank. Cyano will thrive in low flow stagnant areas. Manual removal will help as well. Siphoning the cyano from your sand/gravel and rocks with airline tubing will help remove bulk amounts of cyano. Be sure to remove any cyano that you wipe from the sides of the tank as well. Feed less. Just because the fish swim to the top like spoiled dogs begging doesn't mean they need fed every time you walk past the tank. Actually, it's good practice to skip a day of feeding. Many aquarists feed every other day. Commercially prepared foods contain a lot of phosphates as well. A homemade frozen blender mush* is a good alternative frozen food. This is a mix of fresh seafood and vitamins thats not full of preservatives. If feeding daily, feed small amounts so there isn't a lot of excess food laying around. If feeding frozen foods, thaw the food in some tank water and drain before feeding. Care should also be taken when feeding inverts/corals. It's easy to overfeed so be wary of adding too much. Few animals will feed on cyano and only as a last resort for food. Some hermits may pick at it and nerite snails are said to eat it but the only true consumer is strombus sp. Introducing macros that will compete for the nutrients will help as well. Lastly, there are several chemical products on the market that can be used to control cyano. These can be a mixed blessing. While it may control and/or eliminate your cyanobacteria, these fixes are usually temporary. Cyano being so adaptable, unless you change the conditions in your tank that is causing the problem in the first place, it will often adjust itself to the new chemicals and reappear over time.
In closing, cyanobacteria is not the end of the world. Algaes of all types are to be expected in a new system. When the tank first cycles, there is an over abundance of nutrient and as a result much larger than needed bacterial populations. Once the nutrient load is reduced and fish added (or inverts), the bacteria start to die off. The nutrient bound up in these bacteria then become a great source of algae fuel. Once the tank reaches a more static level (waste in/waste out), these algaes subside naturally for the most part albeit unsightly for the short term if the conditions/removal suggestions are followed. Limit nutrients through regular water changing, careful feeding, limiting use of supplements, proper lighting, adequate filtration, circulation and aeration, and the addition of macro algaes. If you do have an outbreak of cyanobacteria, look for the fuel source. Things like lack of competing algaes, overabundance of chemicals and foods, as well as stagnant, low oxygenated water are pretty easy fixes and are better for the long term health of your tank."
Take these steps and you will be good as gold.
Last edited:
cmor1701d
Aquarium Advice Addict
Scott, thanks for the short answer. It amazes me how childish some people are when they come here looking for a quick answer, but know nothing about their tank or its inhabitants, and refuse to do even basic research. How did they find AA in the first place?
roka64
Aquarium Advice Addict
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I agree, there seem to be quite a few lately.
Ziggy953
Aquarium Advice Addict
I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels that way......
OP
OP
blindskate
Aquarium Advice Activist
i got the water tested and i was told to put phosphate in my filter to bring down my nitrates. but he said my ammonia was real low and my ntirates kinda high...so that's why my fish were fine but my sand was growing red slime like crazy. i havent had nay fish die, only my choc chip starfish that was eaten alive and another fish eaten by a yellow fin damsel. but...no deaths due to my tank
roka64
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You don't want to add phosphates to your tank! The is one of the things that fuel the cyano and algaes. Are you sure he didn't say a phosphate remover like phosban? You may want to do some PWCs to get rid of the ammonia (this will also reduce your nitrAtes and starve out the cyano, as stated in my "short" answer). Ammonia is highly toxic to your critters.
