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Old 09-06-2005, 04:32 PM   #11
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test phosphates.
Also, considering I run two 1200 MaxiJets on my 40gallon, I don't think you have sufficient circulation for a 72gallon.
Cyano loves to form in low/dead current areas first.

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Old 09-06-2005, 04:42 PM   #12
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Even if you are using your own RO/DI, tesy your source water for PO4. I found that my DI cartridge on my almost new system was not removing enough. After replacing it, Cyano went away.

Reducing your photo period and constant siphoning while battling will help as well. Old bulbs can promote algae growth as well. Not just cyano but all algae.

*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:32 PM   #13
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I have two Maxi-jet 1200 PHs running in my 72 gal and they are located on opposite sides of the tank pointing at each other. I have cyano growing on the substrate and rocks and want to take your advice about adding more circulation.

How should I go about this? Should I get another Maxi-jet 1200 ph and place it near the bottom of the tank or put one next to the ones already in place and get it to point down?
72gal bowfront, 5gal sump, 45lbs LR, 260watt PC (2-65watt actinics, 2-65watt 10,000k), AquaC Urchin Pro skimmer, 2 Maxi-jet 1200 ph's.
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:20 AM   #14
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I think it's been covered before, but these large water changes don't have an affect on bacteria levels, right? My understanding is that free floating bacteria is minimal and most of it lives by clinging onto the rocks and filters, etc. Is that right?
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Old 09-07-2005, 07:33 AM   #15
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That's right flanque. The only thing to keep in mind is to be sure the salinity, temp and ph are the same.
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Old 10-10-2005, 04:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by localhost
I took the lazy way out in my 6G nano and used Ultralife Red Slime Remover. Worked in about 3 days. Never came back afterwards.
Does this stuff harm the inverts & fish?
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:19 AM   #17
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There is a nice article on the problem of cyano in our articles section here.

Up at the top of the page, you will find a link to all the articles. I highly recommend that you browse through them.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:34 AM   #18
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Chemi-clean is all good and great, but it will not keep the problem from re-occuring. Chemi-clean will just kill the cyano for the short term. The most common problems that cause cyano are using tap water, lights that are too old (the waves actually change over time), not enough water movement, and over feeding.

I have a paper I wrote on cyanobacteria, if you want it I will pm it to you, just ask.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:48 AM   #19
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Sounds like cyano bacteria - looks like algae, but really isn't. Some causes are: high phosphates, low water movement, and poor light spectrum. Some solutions are: turn up your skimmer so it wet skims, replace your bulbs, put a power head or two in "dead" areas, ditch any flake or pellet food, rinse your frozen food really well with old SW, reduce the amount and frequency of feedings, add a phosphate binder, and as a last resort use a product called Chemi-clean. Be sure to follow the directions and good luck!

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Old 10-10-2005, 09:53 AM   #20
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I would get three and put them bottom, middle, top. It's your decision which direction you want to point them based on livestock placement, but I'd have one point straight across, one pointed to front, and one to the rear. This will create a counter current and should eliminate any dead areas. Good luck!

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red slime, slime

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