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Old 06-05-2004, 11:43 PM   #1
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Reverse Osmosis Systems???

What makes one Reverse Osmosis System better than another? From searching these threads, many seem pleased with the systems sold on Ebay.

How do the Ebay units compare to this one sold at Costco? http://www.costco.com/frameset.asp?t...=10034720&log=
It claims ZERO water waste, but does not give info on how many gallons per day or how many stages.

And lastly... what is the tank that is usually pictured next the to the system? Is it the DI section or a storage tank?

Thanks

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Old 06-06-2004, 12:16 AM   #2
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Here are a few Ebay units. Which one is best?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=4306224263

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...34905&tc=photo

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...305720485&rd=1
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Old 06-06-2004, 12:31 AM   #3
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In all honesty, most RO units are pretty much the same. They all utalize the same filter membranes. The difference comes in how many stages they have. The more stages, the higher the water quality. Some RO units also use a DI end stage. This will produce water that is about 99.98% pure. About the best you can get. The DI is useful at removing stubborn metals and more nitrates from the source water.
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Old 06-06-2004, 02:36 AM   #4
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I should add that some of the units being sold on Ebay have stages that aren't really needed. If you find a 6 stage unit for example, and three of the stages are inline carbon filters, it may not be such a good deal. What you basically need on an RO/DI unit is a sediment filter, a carbon block filter, an RO membrane, and a DI filter...the rest of it isn't really needed. Some units may offer dual DI which is fine...it gives you a longer interval between changes. If you're on well water like me, you might want to consider dual sediment filters...I run a 5 micron and a 1 micron to filter out all that nice GA red mud.
Here are a few things I would look for in RO units. Clear canisters so you can visually inspect the filters without pulling them out. Aluminum bracket especially if the unit is going to be near where the SW is mixed. Pressure gauge...this will tell you when the sediment filters are clogging. An easy method for backflushing the RO membrane...this will extend its life a good deal. Full size 10" filter housings instead of the smaller inline filters. Options such as inline TDS meters to monitor the quality of the output are nice too. JMHO.
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Old 06-06-2004, 08:59 AM   #5
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I did my research and agreed with LoganJ...clear housings, inline TDS meter, pressure gauge.

I bought and Aqua FX Barracuda from Darrin at www.captivereefs.com
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:30 PM   #6
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Thanks all. The one sold on captivereefs.com looks nice, but is it worth twice the $ compared to the ones on Ebay?
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Old 06-08-2004, 05:26 AM   #7
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How does one backflush their membrane?
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:36 AM   #8
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IMO, the Aqua FX units are the best quality unit available. Are they worth twice the $$...I don't know. It depends on whether you want the options that are available on them as opposed to the more basic units. One thing they do have going for them is excellent customer service which is worth a lot.

You backflush the membrane by removing the restriction from the waste line which allows water to wash over the outside of the membrane removing buildup on the surface of the membrane. This will make the membrane last longer.
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:58 AM   #9
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Thanks, I guess I just need to do a bit more research before I feel comfortable spending 2x the money for the Captivereef's system.

How does everyone have their system hooked up? I've never used a RO/DI system so I have no idea how one works. I also don't have a sink or faucet where I can permanently mount the system and dedicate it to a RO/DI only sink. Would it be difficult to hook up each time for use?

Thanks
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Old 06-08-2004, 10:09 AM   #10
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I have a three way RO which I hook up every time by hanging it on the side of my water butt. Tap water is then fed to my RO using a garden hose via a hose connector. It is pretty painless for me and I have been doing this for over a year now.
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