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Old 08-13-2004, 12:24 PM   #11
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that would work but I would like to test something that is 0 and is supposed to be 0 as well.

My wife keeps asking when the tank is going to take care of it self and not need all this testing
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*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
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Old 08-13-2004, 12:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ellisz
that would work but I would like to test something that is 0 and is supposed to be 0 as well.

My wife keeps asking when the tank is going to take care of it self and not need all this testing
Agree, Its just a way to illustrate the difference. It is revealing. I took a sample to my lfs to compare.

Ya, my wife is ready to convert my tank into a planter.
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Old 08-13-2004, 01:44 PM   #13
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Any RO experts know if the DI filter is what removes the phosphates? I have a final carbon stage that is for taste. I do use this even though I don't need to. This would not cause any issues would it?
It most certainly can. All living things contain Phosphates. Trees were once living so therefore the activated Carbon contains Phosphates. The manufacturers of GAC are now using acid to wash as much ash as possible out of the activated Carbon and that is a great help as the Phosphate level in Carbon has decreased substantially in recent years. However, it is not completely gone. That's why I recommend that people soak their Carbon in RO/DI water for several days before putting it into their tank. The RO/DI water acts as a magnet and sucks the Phosphate out of the carbon. If your final stage Carbon filter is AFTER your DI cartridge, then this is what you might be experiencing.

One way to find out would be to take the carbon out of the last stage...make some RO/DI water without the carbon and test that. BTW...the Phosphate leaching that occurs with Carbon is highest when the Carbon is brand new.
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Old 08-13-2004, 02:03 PM   #14
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Thanks. I have meant to take the post DI carbon off but did not think it would matter. It will be off tonight for some testing.

I added the RO and the MH setup about the same time so it is hard to say if the more intense light is taking the small PO4 and making it grow like gang busters. I hope it is just the post carbon. That would be the easiest to fix.
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Old 08-14-2004, 03:57 PM   #15
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Well, the LFS was not help. They tested my tank water and got .25 which I thought was ok. Sort of validated my test. Then I had them test my CA and Alk just for the heck of it. The said my CA was 600 and my alk was 1.0-1.5(on the bottom he said). This is a load of you know what. I tested the water sample I took to them and gat CA of 385 and Alk of 2.5 meg/L. I wanted to get a sample of their RO water to test but I got annoyed

I tested some distilled water last night and got the same .5 PO4 reading. Should distilled water have a PO4 reading?

The LFS basically told me my RO/DI was sub-par and that I should have got a spectra pure like they sell. They also could not believe I don't dose iodine and strontium...

oh well...
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*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:21 PM   #16
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First off....never dose Sr unless you have a test kit. The same thing goes for Iodine because too much Iodine will kill your entire tank.

I cannot comment on their tests because I don't know their test kits, methodologies, etc.

Distilled water can contain Phosphates. I don't know if you test kit is right nor wrong. However, a test with RO/DI water will tell you.
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Old 08-14-2004, 09:30 PM   #17
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I don't dose. They thought it was odd that I don't. The test kit they were using was a Hagen master kit.

Is there retail water that I can test to verify the PO4 test on my RO/DI water?
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*180 gal Display, 100 gal basement sump, 33 gal refugium, 3x250 MH, 2x160 VHO actinics, zoos, some softies, LPS & lots of acros and other SPS.
*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
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Old 08-15-2004, 01:31 PM   #18
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Not really, most retail water is only distilled and/or run through a RO process. Drinking water is not usually run through the DI process.

Even though I'm in St. Louis, I have several friends in your local reef club. http://www.indmas.org/ I would ask them if anyone nearby has some RO/DI water you can test with or borrow a TDS meter.
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