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Old 11-02-2013, 09:29 PM   #21
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OMG sooooo worth every penny. That and an auto top off were 2 of the best extras i've purchased....
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:30 PM   #22
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I've had issues with jumpers in the past. That's how I lost my first ornate Bichir. P. Ornatipinnis.
Can you help with my question, I know it's off topic but a few of you keep lots of varied tanks, even you who don't reply.hello out there!
I'm not sure how a cover will maintain pH, is that evaporation related, how does that differ over freshwater systems? I won't have auto top up I don't think I can fit it in? The overhead ref will be boxed in and the sump will be alongside not below, this is so I don't need such large sizes pumps to the ref and return and because I have a tank just about right, ie big and empty. I've done plenty of DIY I'm building it sort of now really.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:57 PM   #23
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The best way I can explain how the ph stabilizes with an open top is that the water can breathe. lol There is ample surface area for the bad gases to be expelled and good fresh air to enter.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:10 PM   #24
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So are both clear on what the gaseous exchange is, I have started a new thread specifically aimed at my question. For fresh water you do a sum for one tank that gives you a figure to stock up to in fish length. This is how I stock my fresh water systems. It's tried and tested by me, so I will use that on my reef. With a multi tank marine system do you factor in all areas where this can occur or just the display area like on a regular single tank set up. With a reef there are more areas like the sump the ref. Area and the extra parts on the side of the ref, it's overhead separate from all other elements. All that space does it count? How do you add corals up for bio loading in a full reef set up ie fish coral sand algae live rock, an area called the sump? I can't break out into two reefs no way. I made the mistake of overstocking with freshwater. Look what I ended up with!

Aimed at Carey, I assume you cover with a mesh type thing?
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:12 PM   #25
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Quote:
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The best way I can explain how the ph stabilizes with an open top is that the water can breathe. lol There is ample surface area for the bad gases to be expelled and good fresh air to enter.
Maybe a new thread would be a good idea ,
But I am thinking of trashing my glass tops and making something to keep the jumped in ,
I was thinking light penetrating through glass clean and when it has salt residue May have different lighting intensity .
I have 2 ideas,
Either building wooden frames with plastic window screen or egg crate plastic .
It's still 1/2" holes
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:12 PM   #26
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OMG sooooo worth every penny. That and an auto top off were 2 of the best extras i've purchased....
****, I may have to work one in!
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:15 PM   #27
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Maybe a new thread would be a good idea ,
But I am thinking of trashing my glass tops and making something to keep the jumped in ,
I was thinking light penetrating through glass clean and when it has salt residue May have different lighting intensity .
I have 2 ideas,
Either building wooden frames with plastic window screen or egg crate plastic .
It's still 1/2" holes
Anything except photographic or optics grade resin or glass will have some effect on light transmission, even that takes its toll.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:21 PM   #28
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Anything except photographic or optics grade resin or glass will have some effect on light transmission, even that takes its toll.
Basically saying nothing will be as good as open top ?
Is evaporation higher without a glass top ?
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:25 PM   #29
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All of my tanks are open top. Except one, the 120 litre fresh.
The one with the lid loses considerably less, so yes I think.
What bothers me about covers and I don't own a reef yet is salt creep. My puffer is in 1.007 +/- .002 the amount of salt over that is ridiculous. Marines are 1.024 +/- .004. That's lots more salt per litre, about 30 grams.
EDIT- I realise only freshwater evaporates.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:28 PM   #30
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Basically saying nothing will be as good as open top ?
Is evaporation higher without a glass top ?
yes, evaporation is higher without glass top. all molecules have kinetic energy. the ones with higher than average kinetic energy will "jump", or evaporate. a glass top stops, at least a portion of the water molecules, from leaving the tank. However, this is expected regardless whether this is a SW or FW system. if you do decide to have an open top, it's wise to invest in a mesh screen top that prevents the fish from jumping. i have learned the lesson the hard way when my fish jumped to its death. a mesh screen top, depending on the size/dimension of the tank, will cost you anywhere from $20-$60 from BRS, but it's well worth the investment as most SW fish cost north of that range.
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