Salt mixes

[Kurt_Nelson]

What salt to use will have 10 different answers from 10 different people.

Actually... I think you'll get 11 different answers!

Sheesh... glad I didn't gloss over this thread - thanks for the complements. Not sure what to say...

But anyway - I guess I should chime in after all that. I use Reef Crystals, but I can't really say anything about any other salts because I've never tried them. I did a bit of research before starting the tank and pretty much came to the conclusion that Melosu mentioned above - they all have their pluses and minuses. And in my opinion, there will probably never be the "perfect" salt, because if it was that easy it would've been done by now.

My advice is go with a name brand that is readily available to you, and learn how to work with it. As you start getting more corals, or your coraline algae is consuming a fair amount of calcium, then you'll have to deal with the low calcium salts. But you have plenty of time to research and learn.

For me, I maintain about 410-400 ppm Ca and 8-10 dKH alkalinity with Reef Crystals by using a 2-part Ca/Alk solution daily and bumping up my PWC water with TurboCalcium. I don't mess with the magnesium as it seem to stay within acceptable levels. I've been tempted to switch to Oceanic, but I'm one of those "if it ain't broke..." type of people and my tank has been pretty stable for 2 years now.

Consistency is a key thing in this hobby, and if you're always switching salts trying to tweak things, when you run into problems you won't know if it's the salt causing issues or if there's something else amiss in the tank.

 

[Devilishturtles]

I used Instant Ocean for a long time and never really had problems with it except that it didn't mix my Calcium up where I wanted. This could have been because I was using tap water, so who knows.

I've been using the new Seachem Reef Salt for the past 2 years or so and so far I really like it. Mixes clean with high calcium, no problems.

Kurt, you rock!

 

[Caige]

Okay... so I purchased the Seachem Sea Salt. I have a rubbermaid bucket I will be using.. I understand that i should aerate/mix for 24hrs before using.

I plan on using a maxijet powerhead pump (106GPH).

Do I get the RODI water to temp BEFORE adding the salt mix or after? Or doesn't matter as long as I check SG/Salanity

Do I also need a Airstone/Airpump to "oxygenate"?? I read somewhere that if I don't do that I can have problems.

Oh, Im only mixing 5gallons at a time.

Thanks

 

[fijiwigi]

You will get different Specific Gravity readings at different temperatures. Do you have a ATC refractometer that adjusts to temperature. I prefer personally to keep all my water at the same temp I have a 32g tub of RO/DI water with a heater and a 20g mixing tub with a heater and powerhead. I personally found it much more difficult to do 5gallons at a time are you mixing it in a 5 gallon bucket?? If so than really you can only put about 4 gallons of water in the bucket. If you get just a small 20g trash can you can mix all the saltwater that you need for the entire PWC and let it sit overnight to stabalize. Using multiple buckets you can often times get a less consistent result. If you use cold water you should let the water reach temperature for a day and another day for the salt mix to become aerated. Otherwise when you mix the salt into cold water than the next day your SG may not be what you thought it was. The Powerhead will aerate the water.

 

[Caige]

Thanks- I have a 15gallon bucket I was going to use. I will most likely take your advise and mix between 10-12gallons at a time.

the Refractometer I have - I had to calibrate it to the temp of my tank (about 78.5)... So I guess I will just heat or cool the water to the 78 degree temp and then add the salt and keep at that temp.

Question -- does it make a big difference on the refractometer reading for a +/- 2degree swing?

 

[fijiwigi]

Most Refractometers should have Automatic Temperature Control ATC so it will adjust to temp but the Specific gravity can be off I believe ( I am no expert at this) But try and test some RO/DI water and see if it reads 0ppt There is a calibration fluid you can buy instead of using RO/DI water I never bought it someone else may have some more advice on the subject thats all I got.

 

[Caige]

Yeah it does read 0 when I test the RODI.... the calibration instructions stated that it will give best results at the temp that you calibrated it to. I haven't seen a "self calibrating" refractometer, other than the $300 + ones... I think I got a decent one and was about $60

 

[Caige]

The refractometer I have has a chart in it that has SG on one side and Salanity on the other... so I believe when you are at "x" on SG it always equates to the same "Y" on Salanity

LOL... not sure if that makes sense.

 

[Innovator]

More than likely it is ATC since most made are these days. Regardless, leaving the droplets on the glass for 5-10secs. is temp. compensating enough ime

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Do I get the RODI water to temp BEFORE adding the salt mix or after? Or doesn't matter as long as I check SG/Salanity

Doesn't matter as long as you check SG after it's come up to temperature. I mix my saltwater in a 5g bucket, 3.5 gallons at a time. Cold (less than room temp) DI water goes in the bucket first. Then the right amount of salt is added. (Always add salt to water... not the other way around.) Then I stir it reeeeaaaaalllll good for about 15 seconds with my long handled spoon. Then it gets dumped into my storage tub that has a heater and powerhead in it. At that point, it gets brought up to 78 degrees. After a day, the SG is checked and adjusted if necessary. (Hint... easier to error on the side of too salty - then it's just a matter of adding water to bring the salinity down. That's easier than adding salt to bring it up.)

Do I also need a Airstone/Airpump to "oxygenate"?? I read somewhere that if I don't do that I can have problems.

As long as your powerhead is creating a good surface ripple, you shouldn't have problems. No need to make a fountain with it, just a good "rolling" boil.