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Old 11-27-2006, 05:36 PM   #11
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Should I take out the fish while I do the rockwork, or try and leave them in?
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Old 11-27-2006, 05:47 PM   #12
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saltwater makeover - someone help

I left mine in and I really managed to stir up a lot of sand but everyone was fine. I would leave them something to hide in. If you have a QT, you can probably put them in there, to be safe. If not, I would do half of the tank at a time.
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:41 PM   #13
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Do you test for phosphate?
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Old 11-27-2006, 06:49 PM   #14
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From your explination, I would look to replace the bulbs (seeing as this just started happening). I think that is your biggest problem, on the algae blooms. It sounds like you are keeping on top of everything else. I would test your source water/tank water for phosphates as rubikcube is suggesting.
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Old 11-27-2006, 07:21 PM   #15
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You did not mention hair algae specifically so I will assume we are talking cyano and aptasia. My advice:
- Do not waste $$ on more LR. You run the risk that you will simply propogate the issue to your new LR. Since LR isn't cheap I suspect you wouldn't want to run that risk.
- As mentioned more LR will cause some type of cycle, small or large, certainly not good for your critters.
- quadruple the number of snails in your tank and use either turbos or astrea. (I prefer astrea) They won't help with aptasia and cyano but will help clean your LR and glass of excess...waste shall we say.
- triple the number of hermits and use scarlets. Same idea as the snails but with some sand turn over benefits.
- add 4 or more pep shrimp. I'll prolly take some knocks for this, but I have used them in the past to help rid my 30G of aptasia issues. They are inexpensive and if they don't make it very long then your not out a lot of $$. Certainly a lot less than buying new LR..If they aren't eating the aptasia, its most likely because they are getting food elsewhere leading me to my next point.
- Stop feeding so much. I have about the same fish load in my 75G and feed only twice a week. (With nori available every other day for the grazers) Quality not quantity. Yes your fish will beg every time you get near the tank but just as with a dog, cat or other animal, overfeeding doesn't make them healthier. If your fish start to look sunken in the belly area you have cut back too much. Otherwise stay on a strict schedule.
- if your feeding flake food, cut WAY back. Big potential source of NO4 which would/could contribute to cyano. Depends on ash content and some other things but consider consulting with your LFS (if you trust them) to find out what they recommend. I use frozen Formula I and II and augment only with flakes/nori.
- Consider your source water..(RO/DI, tap, distilled?? You didn't say) as a potential source of NO4 and/or Silicates both of which are believed to feed algea.
- Salt brands as of recent have been called into question regarding their contribution to cyano and other algeas, consider a switch to something else.
- Stay on the WC program, never heard of too many WCs (Unless your source water is the problem)
- Im not personally a believer in using shorter photo periods to punish your corals for the growth of algea. Aptasia can grow in darn near darkness. As you can tell it hasn't really helped your sitch, so consider bringing your lighting back to full cycle. Regardless of algea you want healthy corals/fish. Again still cheaper than new LR would be replacing the bulbs. I didn't catch what kind of lights but all lights with the exception of MH should be replaced about every 6 months as a very general rule. MH goes about a year if I recall correctly. I'll leave that to the lighting experts..
- Dump the bio wheel all together.
- Increase water flow to be 15 to 20 times the tank volume and eliminate 'dead spots'.
- crank up that skimmer and replace filters, don't clean them.

Again, these are my pieces of advice. Manual removal of larger aptasia and scraping/removal of cyano not with standing..

Peace.
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