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Old 06-05-2006, 04:20 PM   #11
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ya, i get my pH tested by a friends test kit whenever i go to his house (usually every day or other day in other words) and then when i go to the lfs..so a couple times a week there. they've been coming out w/the same results...not sure what brand my friends is, but the lfs uses some..ummm..."tool" for lack of better word. here, i just found a link to something that looks exactly like theirs...http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...pc=1&N=0&Nty=1

anyways, both come out to 7.7. and ya, i forgot about chaeto running on opposite light schedule from the tank only stabilizes...well at least my pH will be stable...

as for turnover rate...i got 2 aquaclear 30's (used to be 301, which is what the box for them says) which put out 175 gph, and the fluval 304 which does 260. so total its 610 gph (thats if they are even pushing out what the companies claim they can) I'm gonna be getting at least one more powerhead sometime soon, because the ac's are weak, and i'm gonna be getting some polyps and whatnot.

so what all do you guys suggest? I'll have my new numbers tonight after i get it tested at the lfs...i'm gonna do the pwc in about 15 minutes so we'll see if that helps, and i've got one of the powerheads facing upwards more so the top is more turbulent. I DONT wanna add a buffer...too much to worry about. should i try the baking soda thing? i dont know how it works but i'm sure someone here does.
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Old 06-05-2006, 04:35 PM   #12
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ya, i get my pH tested by a friends test kit whenever i go to his house
That could be your problem. When the sample is removed from the tank and sits still it's will absorb CO2 and lower the PH.
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I DONT wanna add a buff
Especially to Oceanic salt. It's known for having very high Alk right out of the box.
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Old 06-05-2006, 04:40 PM   #13
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so what all do you guys suggest?
Adding another power head, like an MJ 1200, would be a good idea. Especially if you plan on adding coral. I would also recommend you buy a good test kit and test a fresh sample from the tank and some freshly made SW(mixed for at least 24 hours) to see if there is a problem w/ the batch of salt your using.
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:56 PM   #14
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oh dang...so when i take my water to the lfs...i put it in a baggie, and drive about..ohhh say 8 minutes? would that be long enough for it to drop? i do live in az, so its pretty hot when i drive there (no a/c!!!) i'm not sure if that would affect anything tho...i'm gonna have to buy a good pH tester...what kind do you guys recommend? i cant buy one of the thngs the lfs uses...to much any brands to get/stay away from?
thanks
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:00 PM   #15
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and test a fresh sample from the tank and some freshly made SW(mixed for at least 24 hours) to see if there is a problem w/ the batch of salt your using.
Ditto. Is your salt of good consistency? Never gotten wet and does't have hard clumps in it?
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:18 PM   #16
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nope, salt is fine

***EDIT*****

ok..i just got back from getting it tested and its only gone up .1...so its at 7.8 instead of 7.7. My next water change is gonna be a dif. salt. I do not want to add buffers at all...just doesnt seem like a good idea.
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Old 06-06-2006, 05:06 PM   #17
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so when i take my water to the lfs...i put it in a baggie, and drive about..ohhh say 8 minutes? would that be long enough for it to drop?
A few minutes is not too long. That short an amount time shouldn't cause much difference. Obviously the smaller the sample the more quickly PH will drop.
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...i'm gonna have to buy a good pH tester...what kind do you guys recommend?
If your talking about a test kit, I like Seachem or Salifert. Seachem makes a kit that comes w/ just Alk and PH tests that's fairly inexpensive and reliable. HTH and good luck.
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