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Devilishturtles

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I'm considering adding a few SPS corals in my mixed reef tank, but am trying to prepare for the potential chemical issues with the LPS. I have three brains in my tank that seem to battle each other quite regularly. They slime a lot. Right now, I have a AC 500 HOB filter acting as a mini-refugium with activated carbon in it, running 24/7.

My question is, is the AC 500 AC bags enough chemical filtration for the SPS? Will it be adequate to remove any chemical warfare that goes on? I will be planning on replacing the AC maybe...twice a month?

Second, I was looking at getting an Acro or so, to start. Are there any species that are easier to keep than others (assuming the LFS can correctly ID them anyways, whic I understand can be hit or miss)?. I'd ideally also like to attempt a plating montipora as well.

Right now my Ca is staying well buffered at around 500 ppm and my alk staying a little on the high side at around 14-16 dKh. 4 x 39 watt T5HO. Water changes twice monthly.

This is my first foray into sps, so any tips or tricks would be welcome :)

Thanks!
 
My question is, is the AC 500 AC bags enough chemical filtration for the SPS?
I use 1/4 cup GAC changed weekly on my system along w/ a 12% weekly PWC. The main culprit of chemical warfare w/ SPS is soft coral. LPS generally don't cause problems.
I was looking at getting an Acro or so, to star.t Are there any species that are easier to keep than others
Acros are all going to be pretty sensitive and demanding-especially when acclimating to the tank. Some more tolerant SPS are hydnophora, stylophora, montipora, pavona, and pocillipora.
buffered at around 500 ppm
Too high IMO. While it may not cause problems where it is, it will not take much to push it to where it can be detrimental to coral growth and start precipitating out of solution. 400-435 would be better. Above 12.5 dkh is on the high side as well. 10-12 is best.
so any tips or tricks would be welcome
Stability and great water flow. Water flow is extremely important w/ SPS corals. Some would argue more so than light. SPS will brown-out, or just be drabby, and/or exhibit slow growth without proper flow. Once you mount a frag, leave it. I, and others, have had SPS RTN or STN(rapid tissue necrosis/slow tissue necrosis) just by moving their position. Even though flow, light, etc. seem to be identical. Once SPS get acclimated to a tank, which takes months if not a year or more for some, they are fairly hardy. Keeping PO4 as low as possible is very important. high PO4 will affect coloring as well as growth. PO4 inhibits calcification, and can stop it all together at high enough levels. Good luck, it sounds like your getting the SPS bug- your bank account just got the chills lol.
 
Lol, thanks a lot Mike! I was hoping you'd chime in!

My Ca mixes out of the bucket at 500 ppm, another down side of the Seachem Salt. The alk is too high as well with the Seachem Salt. I have an entire bucket to go through before I'm out of it. Do you think I should wait until then to start into SPS? I haven't tested lately to see how quickly the Ca changes... I need to do that.

I figured Acros were too sensitive to start out with, thanks for the beginner suggestions!

I have plenty of flow. Two AC 70's (400 pgh each), that should be plenty. Also just ordered some ROWAphos, to soak up residual PO4 in the tank.

I am definitley being bit by the bug! Hoping my bank account doesn't hate me too much!

Many thanks!
 
Your welcome DT!
Do you think I should wait until then to start into SPS?
Switching salt mixes would only complicate things for the corals as they acclimate to your tank. Best to do that before you add anything new. I recently started using Rowa-it's great! Not only does it eat up PO4 and silicate, my water is a good deal clearer, which I honestly did not even think was possible before.
I have plenty of flow. Two AC 70's (400 pgh each), that should be plenty
I'm not sure what an AC 70 looks like. Do you have turbulent flow through out the tank? FWIW SPS tanks can easily have 25-50x an hour turn over in the display tank alone.
 
As Mike stated usually it is your soft corals esp. leathers that do the chemical warfare. How close are your brain corals. Mine never slough but I have them far apart. I have 4 leathers in my tank but I also do 15-20% PWC`s which help. GAC as mentioned will help also.
 
Awesome, thanks guys!

With the AC70's, I have pretty turbulent flow.

800 GPH from the two powerheads
500 GPH from the AC 500
And the Aqua-C Remora

I guess that's about 28x turnover. With the shorter length tank, the flow gets everywhere!

I do not have many soft corals, simply some mushrooms and zoos. I think I read that leathers are the major issue, right?

Mike #2 ( ;) ) my brains are 10 inches from each other, I thought that was enough, but apparently it isn't. Two of them seem to slime a lot, so I need to try moving them, or increase my amount of GAC.

I'm going to retest Ca and Alk when I get home from work, see what they read.
 
I keep mine 3 feet apart. 10 inches might not be far enough. I know they have sweepers that are several inches long.Something is bothering them.
 
I have SPS, LPS and Leather in my tank and haven't had any issues at all. My SPS corals are growing fast enough that you can see a difference from day to day. I've started taking pics of them at 2 week intervals to show the growth of each coral. I have 7 SPS corals 6 LPS and one leather in my tank. With assorted mushrooms and zoos too.

I do PWCs regularly every other week about 25g or 20% total water volume of my system.
 
Ziggy, thanks! Can you list the SPS that you do have? I'm hoping to pick up an easier species this weekend when we hit the BRK store. :)

I am having issues measuring the Alk and Ca with my new Seachem kit.... maybe I just need more coffee or something, I'll check it later.
 
I have 3 different types of Montipora Capricornus (Orange, dark green with purple rim and blue polyps, neon green with yellow rim) I have a tri colored Acropora SP and another acro that I'm not sure exactly what it is, it has shown the most growth of all the SPS I have, all of which I got from BRK. I also have a pink Pocilipora, which I got from BRK, it has finally decided it likes my tank and is starting to grow.
 
I'm hoping to pick up an easier species
A Montipora capricornis would be a great choice as a starter SPS piece. They are tolerant of different types of lighting, flow, more resistent to stress from chemistry fluctuations etc., and on top of all that they can be very nice looking corals in both growth form and color. I listed a few others in my first post as well.
 
That's awesome, thanks again guys! I am having issues with my seachem kits.... it's weird. They are not even registering a color when I add the reagents. I think I'm doing something wrong, but my brain isn't working well enough this evening to figure it out.

So, another question. Are aquacultured SPS shown to be more resistent and hardy as wild collected, or are they just about the same?
 
They are not even registering a color when I add the reagents.
I'm having the same issue w/ a Seachem magnesium, alkalinity combo kit I just bought. Here is their responses-
Hello,
"I apologize for that. Occasionally, that can happen in storage. The indicator is a dye so you can add a few more drops of the indicator to get color (it will not skew the results). If you will send your address I will send out more indicator to make sure you get the number of test promised out of your kit.
Seachem Support"

After that did not work-
"Hello,
I understand what you are saying. The end point for the test is going to be when the color change is noted whether it is clear or yellow. We have not had a problem with either of the Alkalinity test not matching up.(*Regarding another Seachem test kit I was comparing results to) They are different reagents, but should yield pretty similar numbers. I will send out another titrant that has been checked by the chemist here. I apologize for that. I will get that one mailed out today for you. Thank you for your patience.
Seachem Support "
It's been about 10 business days and I'm still waiting for the new titrant. I just e-mailed them again. They may have a lot of people to deal with...
 
So, another question. Are aquacultured SPS shown to be more resistent and hardy as wild collected, or are they just about the same
Absolutely. Wild caught colonies are often less hardy, and can go through dramatic color shifts when acclimated to artificial lighting. You really don't know what you'll be left w/ after they acclimate to T-5, MH, etc. Aquacultured is also a more responsible method of producing coral frags. I'm sure you know how threatened reefs are w/out hobbiest impacting them further.
 
Mike is right...I always buy aquacultured corals! They are far more hardy and they help to save our reefs!! DT...if you had been able to join us today you could have gotten a nice Monti-Cap for $9.95. A nice yellow. I picked one up yesterday along with a blue stag acro. Maybe next time you can join us!!
 
Mike, thanks for the info about the seachem kits, atleast now I know it's not something I'm doing wrong. I'll have to contact them as well. I have the pH and Alk combo kit. Weird, weird results.

I figured aquacultured would be a lot more hardy, and I generally try to always buy aquacultured when I can!

DT...if you had been able to join us today you could have gotten a nice Monti-Cap for $9.95. A nice yellow. I picked one up yesterday along with a blue stag acro. Maybe next time you can join us!!

Sure, rub it in. :p That sounds sweet. I wish I was doing anything today rather than feeling how I am, but...oh well. Hopefully we can go back soon!
 
Not to worry...John keeps lots of small SPS frags in stock and monti cap is one that he usually has several colors of!! I now have 4 different colors myself!!! :D

Here are a couple of pics of the Monti-cap I picked up on Friday....

newmonticap2yr2.jpg

newmonticapyb7.jpg
 
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