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Old 03-16-2015, 11:18 PM   #71
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Phosphates phosphates phosphates ! Get rid of them, lights have nothing to do with it once you get Phosphates under control


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How do you get rid of phosphate when it reads 0?
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:29 PM   #72
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If you see phosphates above 0, you have a big problem. When things decompose and go through the nitrate cycle, you get about 16 to 1 ratio if I remember the rough math correctly. That is, for 16 nitrate you will get 1 phosphate. This is why you want to have very precise phosphate test kits to know what is going on. When I had big algae issues in my tank my phosphates were at .16! Currently, they are at .05.
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Old 03-16-2015, 11:54 PM   #73
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It follows that the first step for OP is to throw away that API test kit and get a low range phosphate test kit such as Salifert that can read below 0.1 and go from there. However, those algae has to be manually removed first otherwise it will catch those phosphates first before any other media can be effective. With strong light algae can grab those phosphates faster. So you can not say that light has nothing to do with it. Algae use light for photosynthesis to absorb phosphate.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:15 AM   #74
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With my hanna checker, I've never had a problem with detecting the phosphates in my tank.
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:40 AM   #75
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This week when we do the water change, I plan on changing rhe reactor media. Even when the media was brand new and I did some manual removal, it didnt do anything. I had a peice of plexy glass laying around that I put on top of the left side of the tank, I dont have one for the right side just yet. Going to see if that does anything. Hopefully it does. Ill keep you all posted.

Thanks so much for all of ypur input.
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:53 AM   #76
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I would stop feeding frozen food during this process until algae is under control. Use pellets cause they are low on phosphate.
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:24 PM   #77
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That would be a wise gift for him. Some hobbyists have changed their ro/di filters only to find later that they installed it incorrectly resulting to high tds.
I'm joining this party a little late. But I'm getting ready to change out my sediment/carbon/DI resin on my BRS 4 stage for the first time... What would be an incorrect way to install it? Cartridges upside down? Too much DI resin? Too little?
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:37 PM   #78
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When replacing ro/di filters, there is a chance that the cylinder filter may tilt a little bit when tightening the canister. When that happens the rubber seal will not set properly on top and bottom and some of the tap water will leak out bypassing the cylinder filter. Apply lubricant (any oil) on the canister rubber gasket when reinstalling and tighten it by hand only.
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:59 PM   #79
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When replacing ro/di filters, there is a chance that the cylinder filter may tilt a little bit when tightening the canister. When that happens the rubber seal will not set properly on top and bottom and some of the tap water will leak out bypassing the cylinder filter. Apply lubricant (any oil) on the canister rubber gasket when reinstalling and tighten it by hand only.

I'll keep an eye out for that. Thanks


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Old 03-20-2015, 08:27 AM   #80
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I would stop feeding frozen food during this process until algae is under control. Use pellets cause they are low on phosphate.
You could feed fresh food. I wouldn't put that store bought frozen food in my tank. go to the supermarket and get some fish and shrimp and make your own.
Here's one recipe-
Marine fish food thread
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