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Old 09-28-2012, 04:41 PM   #71
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Will do tonight.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:10 PM   #72
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Alrighty. I'm starting to think 20 or so volts is normal.
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:24 PM   #73
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Cleaned up my electrical Only wires in the sump need to be and their excess is wrapped behind the sump. Don't have a drip loop set up at the moment but that's my next plan.

Got rid of one power strip by using 3 way adapters. Convenient because so many things draw so little power.

Unplugged 2 heaters and 2 koralias (replacing one of the koralias).

I now read between 2 and 18 volts at any given time. Something is fluctuating.. hard to tell what.

I no longer feel the shock in the sump, although I did try to (lol!) so I knew what the offending piece of equipment was. No such luck!

Interested to see others readings.

I know greg is and possibly meegosh or phranque.. everyone else bust out your multimeters and stick 'em in your tanks.

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Old 09-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #74
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Well I've read through this entire thread and here i what I have to contribute. Firstly lets clarify a few things- the voltage your reading from the water to the ground on your outlet is potential voltage and even after removing all the equipment in your tank you will still read the voltage potential unless you discharge it by running some piece of metal or other conductive material from the tank water to your ground on your outlet. This will remove any stray voltage in the water until you plug something back in. Also current (amperes, or amps) is not present until you have a path back to ground which is what a ground probe will do and that's bad. Current is what kills, as little as 4 milliamps. Now as far and GFCI receptacles go they are your best safety however I would hook up at least a couple and make sure to have a powerhead hooked to each one that way if one trips while your at work you still have circulation in your tank. I'm not sure why you have such high voltage in your tank but it has to be something faulty. You will get some stray voltage potential by having equipment in the tank, any sort of motor will create more such as powerheads and pumps. The voltage these create should be minimal somewhere in the millivolt range.
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:23 PM   #75
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I'll second that
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:40 PM   #76
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Something else I forgot to add is that a GFCI is a waste of money if you don't have a bond back to the ground in the panel. Without a proper ground it won't work properly.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:09 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdpuffer
Well I've read through this entire thread and here i what I have to contribute. Firstly lets clarify a few things- the voltage your reading from the water to the ground on your outlet is potential voltage and even after removing all the equipment in your tank you will still read the voltage potential unless you discharge it by running some piece of metal or other conductive material from the tank water to your ground on your outlet. This will remove any stray voltage in the water until you plug something back in. Also current (amperes, or amps) is not present until you have a path back to ground which is what a ground probe will do and that's bad. Current is what kills, as little as 4 milliamps. Now as far and GFCI receptacles go they are your best safety however I would hook up at least a couple and make sure to have a powerhead hooked to each one that way if one trips while your at work you still have circulation in your tank. I'm not sure why you have such high voltage in your tank but it has to be something faulty. You will get some stray voltage potential by having equipment in the tank, any sort of motor will create more such as powerheads and pumps. The voltage these create should be minimal somewhere in the millivolt range.
I read the following link and there was mention of some kind of grounding rod you could put outside. If you did this, would you in essence ground your tank without the risk of endangering your fish? Read the first question...

www.wetwebmedia.com/grdprobeaq.htm
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:38 PM   #78
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A external ground rod would be better than nothing. But the electrical circuits in your house should be grounded anyway. It is a major safety concern.
As said, a GFI is only good if there is a good house ground for it connect to.

Yes, a tank can hold (like a capacitor) a very small amount of voltage even with everything unplugged. But the rise you see in voltage as you plug in things is very real. It is additive. Any one piece might not be that bad, but added together, it makes enough current for you to feel it.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:42 PM   #79
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Ground probe is a BAD idea. Stray voltage is a sign of something being wrong but it's not electrocuting anything until its given a return path to ground. Whether that be a ground probe or your hand when you stick it into the tank. Once there is a path to ground it completes the circuit and that's when the current flows. Once you have current is when things start to die. Whether the ground probe is in the tank or out of it you provide a path to ground and hence give the current a path to flow. Without a completed circuit you won't have current. I don't know why they sell ground probes because they are a bad idea, but if you put something on the market and people buy it why would you stop selling it.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:47 PM   #80
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Here is another way to look at the situation. Think of electricity like water. You have your garden hose and that's your "wire". When you turn on the tap you have water flow this is your voltage and your pressure is the current. You have a nozzle on the end of the hose and you stop the water flow you stop the pressure. Same holds true with electricity, if it doesn't have a path to ground it can't flow and hence can't electrocute anything, put a ground probe on and you have basically removed your nozzle so the voltage flows as does the current.
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