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Old 09-29-2012, 02:49 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdpuffer
Ground probe is a BAD idea. Stray voltage is a sign of something being wrong but it's not electrocuting anything until its given a return path to ground. Whether that be a ground probe or your hand when you stick it into the tank. Once there is a path to ground it completes the circuit and that's when the current flows. Once you have current is when things start to die. Whether the ground probe is in the tank or out of it you provide a path to ground and hence give the current a path to flow. Without a completed circuit you won't have current. I don't know why they sell ground probes because they are a bad idea, but if you put something on the market and people buy it why would you stop selling it.
Right on...but you don't want to be the path to ground. Standing in bare feet in a puddle of saltwater is a situation where I want all my electrical devices buttoned down and made as safe as possible.
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:11 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote

Right on...but you don't want to be the path to ground. Standing in bare feet in a puddle of saltwater is a situation where I want all my electrical devices buttoned down and made as safe as possible.
And that is where the GFCI comes in. Like stated before if you don't have a properly grounded receptacle it won't work properly and you have bigger issues to address. All receptacles should be properly grounded. Once your receptacle is properly grounded then your set to install GFCI's. just a side note the proper term is bonded not grounded. All the "grounds" in your house are bonds and are connected to the ground wire coming into your panel from the ground or dirt outside your house- just a little FYI for all that care lol. Another little tid bit is how GFCI's work. They monitor the difference in current between your hot and neutral wires, this is done by monitoring the magnetic field created around the wire by current flowing through the wire. When everything is good the magnetic fields are the same but once something goes wrong the magnetic fields shift and don't balance out which causes the receptacle to trip or shut off.
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:54 PM   #83
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In my world, bonding is to bring everything down to the same potential. Done primarily for lightening protection in most of my installations, it does make the outside ground the common potential for all devices "bonded" into the system. In other words, you don't want the toaster at a different potential than the cold water faucet.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #84
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Measured 1.04V today. Something is definitely fluctuating but I do like the 1.04V reading!

Nobody else has tested their tank yet?
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:52 PM   #85
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Had to do some PAR readings at the LFS, will test for voltage tomorrow.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:17 PM   #86
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Found this post today and got my Fluke work meter out and tested my system at 0 volts AC. Then got my Harbor Freight $5.00 meter and had 1.4 volts AC. Maybe it's your meter reading high. Can you borrow another meter?

I have 2 grounding probes in my system but without a GFI. When my heater failed in my refugium I could feel the voltage in the water when it was plugged in. I lost most of my algae but no fish or inverts. I originally put the probes in because I had about 5 volts of stray voltage.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:32 PM   #87
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Found this post today and got my Fluke work meter out and tested my system at 0 volts AC. Then got my Harbor Freight $5.00 meter and had 1.4 volts AC. Maybe it's your meter reading high. Can you borrow another meter?

I have 2 grounding probes in my system but without a GFI. When my heater failed in my refugium I could feel the voltage in the water when it was plugged in. I lost most of my algae but no fish or inverts. I originally put the probes in because I had about 5 volts of stray voltage.
I have a $20 ETEK meter from walmart but I could try another one (though this one reads 122V out of a 120 outlet so probably works good). I will do that.

Did you test with your grounding probes unplugged and out of the tank?

EDIT| Also you should probably spend the $50-$100 bucks or so to get that tank on a GFI. Might save your life one day. On that note, I'm wondering how to purposely trip my GFI from my tank. For testing purposes.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:03 PM   #88
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Most GFI's have a test button and a reset button. As for saving my life I'd have to move the plug strip about 5 feet, just lazy and having my system shut down IMO is worst than having some power in the system. Especially if it shuts down while I'm away for the weekend.

I've had a aquarium almost continually for 40 years SW for the last 8. I think I'll live.
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:48 AM   #89
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Most GFI's have a test button and a reset button. As for saving my life I'd have to move the plug strip about 5 feet, just lazy and having my system shut down IMO is worst than having some power in the system. Especially if it shuts down while I'm away for the weekend.

I've had a aquarium almost continually for 40 years SW for the last 8. I think I'll live.
I think your life might be worth more. If the GFI shuts down, there is a good reason for it. By that logic you should remove your circuit breakers or fuses. I've had tanks a very long time too and I use to get zapped pretty good. Didn't like it much.
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Old 09-30-2012, 02:57 AM   #90
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My outlet does not have a test and reset button. However I used the outlet tester to verify it was grounded and then used the test button on the outlet tester to trip the circuit. It worked.

I'm just wondering if I can do it from my tank. There's a power strip and an extension cord in between the tank and the outlet. IDK, I just wanna be safe.

I don't feel the shock any more and I just tested 1.07 volts so things are looking better after I redid my electrical.
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