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Old 09-15-2011, 02:39 AM   #11
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When are you checking your PH? Most generally PH is always lower with the lights off. You typically want to check PH after the lights have been on for 2 hours or more.
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Old 09-15-2011, 02:45 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by warvillian
When are you checking your PH? Most generally PH is always lower with the lights off. You typically want to check PH after the lights have been on for 2 hours or more.
When I checked the main light was already on for 6hrs
I have my Main Light and refugium light on opposite schedules and therefore there is always a light on somewhere in the tank system

Ironically I do the opposite light schedule to keep my pH stable... Go figure LOL
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:38 PM   #13
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so, just got back from class and checked on my tank:
pH 7.8
KH: 14

so no great results... it juts suxx
well, best thing to do would be a water change but sadly I have neither the time right now nor the water

water is being produced as we speak
just got back from 6hr of lectures and have to sleep now so I can work my 12hr shift at 6:30pm... knowing myself I will be tossing and turning with those values but I cant do anything until saturday
BTW Nitrites didnt drop either
guess I just have to wait and see
dont wanna mess around with any chamicals anymore either
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:47 PM   #14
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As cccapt has said,dont add anything whilst cycling,you only need to test for Amm,trites and then trates during cycling.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:50 PM   #15
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As cccapt has said,dont add anything whilst cycling,you only need to test for Amm,trites and then trates during cycling.
But doesn't a low pH affect the cycle? I'm stuck with trites right now and can't get em to drop
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:55 PM   #16
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whats the amm test at right now? and how long and what size tank?
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:59 PM   #17
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whats the amm test at right now? and how long and what size tank?
Amm tests zero, I redose to 2ppm daily to keep the bacteria fed. Drops really fast to zero though

120g tank with 55g sump

Been cycling for 3 weeks and 2 days now (since august 23rd)
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:01 PM   #18
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If your still cycling, don't worry about pH now. It will fluctuate wildly during the cycle. Please do yourself a favor and don't start adding any type of buffers for pH because ALL will raise your alk. Once you start messing with your water chemistry and get it out of whack it's hard to get back in line.

Just have patience and let it run it's course. You can do all the water changes you want. They won't hurt anything. A water change is NEVER a bad thing.
Hey ccCapt. I am a bit confused. Straighten me out if you can (may not be possible but....). While I agree that a "PWC is NEVER a bad thing" once you have cycled and you have added livestock, it seems counter intuitive during the cycle. The point of the cycle is to encourage growth and multiplication f the BB right? BB consume the AM then the nitrite? Having higher levels of both will cause the BB to thrive right? So, based on all that, seems to me that PWC will remove the Am and Nitrite that you need for the BB to thrive. What am I missing here?
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:03 PM   #19
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i would stop dosing amm now,then wait for the trites to drop and your trates will raise.
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:04 PM   #20
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i would stop dosing amm now,then wait for the trites to drop and your trates will raise.
But won't the bacteria starve and die off?!
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